Oil & Fuel JD 955 burning engine oil

[Pete Judd]

I use both Delo400 and Rotela in both the boats, and tractor, whatever is best price at wally world. 10-40 in the tractor, straight 30 in the boat, because of the temps on the boat being in salt water all the time never gets below 48F up here. Sometimes running a engine hard, will break the glaze that will happen on the cyl walls. I run my boat at 1400 rpms most of the time, but was told by the engine dealer to bump it up to 2200 for an hour or two once a year to break the glaze on the cyl walls and reseat the rings.

 

[clemsonfor]

I use Rotella 15-40 in my red iron farming tractors so may switch to that after a couple hi detergeant oil changes. Will be interesting to see how many hours I put on it over the summer, boy is it handy I should have made this move years ago.

Forget the high detergent stuff. Use some seafoam in the oil according to the can and run it around for an hour or 2 at light use. Dump the dirty oil then go to the rotella.

 

[tag01]

Sea Foam is good stuff, I am gonna try that.

 

[DieselMonk]

I wouldn't use the Walmart Supertech crap. But Shell Rotella 15W40 yes. Don't forget to change the engine oil filter too. But when you calculate the cheapest oil and seafoam, then you fare better with some thin brand name high detergent oil like mobil 1 5W40 turbo diesel. That also will clean her out. I'd change filter, but that oil in it and mow once. Drain the oil and have a good look at it. If it's dirty and lumpy... same tratment again. If it's clean I'd try to use some straight 30W oil. It is thicker and harder to get by the pistons.

 

[clemsonfor]

I wouldn't use the Walmart Supertech crap. But Shell Rotella 15W40 yes. Don't forget to change the engine oil filter too. But when you calculate the cheapest oil and seafoam, then you fare better with some thin brand name high detergent oil like mobil 1 5W40 turbo diesel. That also will clean her out. I'd change filter, but that oil in it and mow once. Drain the oil and have a good look at it. If it's dirty and lumpy... same tratment again. If it's clean I'd try to use some straight 30W oil. It is thicker and harder to get by the pistons.

Uhhh do you know What oil weights mean?? 30W oil is not thicker at operating temps than 15w40 or 5w40? There actually thicker at operating temps. Yes in a cool engine and for about 10 mins they are thinner, hince the lower first number which reflects the cold flow rate. str8 30 W is thicker when cold but thins out when warm where as milti viscosity oil like the 15w40 is thinner when cold but does not thin out as much as when warm as the 30 would.

My point is if 15w40 or 5w40 (both a 40W oil) is blowing by straight 30W is going to be worse as its a thinner oil!!!

 

[Neat 1500]

Uhhh do you know What oil weights mean?? 30W oil is not thicker at operating temps than 15w40 or 5w40? There actually thicker at operating temps. Yes in a cool engine and for about 10 mins they are thinner, hince the lower first number which reflects the cold flow rate. str8 30 W is thicker when cold but thins out when warm where as milti viscosity oil like the 15w40 is thinner when cold but does not thin out as much as when warm as the 30 would.

My point is if 15w40 or 5w40 (both a 40W oil) is blowing by straight 30W is going to be worse as its a thinner oil!!!

agreed use a multigrade in an oil burner, not a straight weight. do you guys have lucas oil additive over there? we have had it forever here and it works very well.

 

[clemsonfor]

Yea we have lucas addatives. I think the oil addative has been around since it was invented. What in the 70s or 80s? I know i have seen it since the 90s when i was a teen driving and working on my stuff.

 

[Neat 1500]

Yea we have lucas addatives. I think the oil addative has been around since it was invented. What in the 70s or 80s? I know i have seen it since the 90s when i was a teen driving and working on my stuff.

yeah even earlier than that. my old man says it was around in the 60s here. do an oil change and bung some of that stuff in it, that'll fix it. :thumbsup:

 

[Ginormous]

agreed use a multigrade in an oil burner, not a straight weight. do you guys have lucas oil additive over there? we have had it forever here and it works very well.

Is the Lucas additive for cleaning out the engine or something else?

 

[clemsonfor]

Lucas is an Oil addative. It can be used in rear ends, engines transmissions (special formula i think). It makes oil extra tacky to stick to parts longer, look for the little gear driven demo in the parts stores on the counters. It is like 150W oil, it basically thickens the oil up to help keep blowby down. Only problem i see with it is it dont like to flow cold.

Supposedly racers use it i guess? The sponser drag cars and offroaders i think. I guess they would add it as racing oil is either straight 30,40,50w oil anyway. Problem i see is it dosent like to flow when cold, starving your upper end, but i guess thats why its so tacky to help keep an oil film on the upper parts. The only folks i know that use it are putting it in a worn engine to try and cusion or take up slop or to keep it from burning oil or help stop leaks.

 

[careyo63]

The only folks i know that use it are putting it in a worn engine to try and cusion or take up slop or to keep it from burning oil or help stop leaks.[/QUOTE]

Alot of folks used it with GM Weak Hyd. Lifter problems back in the day to help build up pressure and and keep the Valve chatter down. Not like the Synthetic Slick fifty which is similar to a Teflon coating additive.

 

[Neat 1500]

yeah it sticks to everything so cold starts are not really a problem. i have used it in rattly old 6 cylinder and it shut it up beautifully :thumbsup: just dont use it with really grubby oil, it will block up the oil filter.