I'm new here and just recently sold my old IH 424 and bought a 99 model JD 5210. I've been slowing working the bugs out of it and final found out after some troubleshooting that by PTO clutch and Clutch assy is probably wore out. Under heaving load while mowing the PTO stops spinning and at high RPM's the PTO stops as well. Also, the PTO will not fully disengage (will continue to spin after disengaging at low RPM). I'm looking for some insight on how difficult it is to replace the clutches and maybe where to find a good price on parts and if anyone has any drawings. Appreciate the help in advance.
JD 5210 Clutch Assy Replacement
- Thread starter Lineman36
- Start date
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While I have only read about, it does not appear to be that hard to do assuming you have the tools, a little help and a place to work on it. I do strongly suggest you get the tech manual, you can download a copy for 34.95 from selectmanuals.com. Note there is a early design and a late design clutch, so you get the correct parts. To add to what is in the manual put blocks on top of the front axle at the pivot point, so it does not rock side to side.
Must admit if I was going to do mine, I would consider looking into if you can purchase the clutch pack. Also do not forget to clean the pick-up screen located back by the PTO.
I have include a link to operators manual, JD parts catalog and if you go to JDparts.com you can sign-up and be able to price the parts out or go to greenfarmparts.com.
If you decide to do it, please consider let us know how it goes, lessons learned and pictures.
http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMRE71736_19/
John Deere - Parts Catalog
Must admit if I was going to do mine, I would consider looking into if you can purchase the clutch pack. Also do not forget to clean the pick-up screen located back by the PTO.
I have include a link to operators manual, JD parts catalog and if you go to JDparts.com you can sign-up and be able to price the parts out or go to greenfarmparts.com.
If you decide to do it, please consider let us know how it goes, lessons learned and pictures.
http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMRE71736_19/
John Deere - Parts Catalog
Thanks for the quick response. I changed all my fluids (and did clean up the screen) because my pump was making terriable noises. After changing the hydo fluid is stopped the noise. I was in hopes it had to do something do with the PTO. It does seem pretty easy to split just a few lines.
joecdeere
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2002
- Messages
- 1,735
- Location
- Cumming,Georgia
- Tractor
- 1948 Allis UC Hi-Crop Cane 1941 Allis WC 1948 Allis G with loader, 1948 Allis G with dual disc 1948 Allis G 1948 Allis G 1949 Allis G 1954 Allis G 1959 Ferguson TO-35 1972 MF 135 1979 Power King 2418 1989 Ford 345C TLB
I have a PDF of the Deere technical manual you're welcome to, shoot me your email if wanted.
Joe
Joe
Tx Jim
New Member
joecdeere
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2002
- Messages
- 1,735
- Location
- Cumming,Georgia
- Tractor
- 1948 Allis UC Hi-Crop Cane 1941 Allis WC 1948 Allis G with loader, 1948 Allis G with dual disc 1948 Allis G 1948 Allis G 1949 Allis G 1954 Allis G 1959 Ferguson TO-35 1972 MF 135 1979 Power King 2418 1989 Ford 345C TLB
from the CTM-125 manual -
Specification
Flywheel bolt裕orque 160 N瀕 (120 lb-ft) .................................................
Specification
Flywheel bolt裕orque 160 N瀕 (120 lb-ft) .................................................
Little up date. I got my clutch and the tractor back together (minus hooking up the lines). I was actually really easy process. All you need is 2 floor jack and so wood cribbing and from there its really basic. My question is....as is was tighten up the engine to the bell housing the clutch made some noise like if a spring was going unsprung. I'm just assuming its the clutch seating in and adjusting. It did it twice. After that I adjusted the clutch linkage and I had to run it up all the way to get a decent pedal. If anyone can give me an insight I surly would appreciate it.
Tx Jim
New Member
While joining both halves when getting them close together did you rotate engine with trans in gear & rotate pto with it engaged to help aligne splines on both input shafts? If not you may have damaged 1 or both clutch plates.
Well I split it again and found the issue. I guess the PTO shaft must have not gone into the pilot bearing correctly and it was hung up and the bearing was destroyed. When I was spitting it, it came out with the engine side. I got it apart and put the PTO shaft back into the traction shaft but it seems it won't fully go back where it's suppose too. Not sure what the deal is. Does anyone have any ideas?
Have you been successful in getting the PTO clutch shaft back in?
On page 50-11-15 of the tech manual (I assuming you took Joe up on his offer to supply you with the manual) it says -Opposite end of clutch shaft must align with a coupler. Install PTO clutch shaft using a soft-faced hammer. Rotate shaft as necessary until fully seated. –
On page 50-11-15 of the tech manual (I assuming you took Joe up on his offer to supply you with the manual) it says -Opposite end of clutch shaft must align with a coupler. Install PTO clutch shaft using a soft-faced hammer. Rotate shaft as necessary until fully seated. –
Well, the point I've reached is that it wont marry back together all the way. I've rotated the pto in the rear hoping it lines up. I'm using two hoist, one on each side of the tractor and so its a even and controlled. I've got it to about 1inch of it meeting the bell housing and it gets to the point where the hoists are tight and I feel like its going to break something or something is in a bind. i'm going to give it a shot again tonite and if anyone has any suggestion i'm open to it.
Well I got it all lined up. Made sure the splines were close to alignment, left trans in neutral, and got it to about 1 inch from being 100% together. Made sure PTO shaft was seated. Just not sure what I'm missing. Everyone I talk too say it should go back as easy as it came apart. So I'm at a road block.
Tx Jim
New Member
As I previously stated one needs to rotate engine with trans in gear while joining both halves of tractor to align clutch & trans input shaft splines. Whomever stated tractors join back together as easily as being split must not have split/rejoined very many tractors and were just ""very lucky on their initial tractor split"". Are you positive you have distance between halves the same distance(top & bottom) IE EQUAL?
In the 12+ yrs I served as a JD dealer service manager I witnessed some tractors easy to rejoin together & some almost impossible.
In the 12+ yrs I served as a JD dealer service manager I witnessed some tractors easy to rejoin together & some almost impossible.
Well I was assuming it would need to be in neutral. The distances are not equal. The top was about 1 inch and bottom was roughly 1/2 inch or less. I tried to rotate the engine by turning the water pump but the crank shaft would not spin at all. As well I went to the back of the tractor to spin the PTO and again it would not spin. I'm thinking that maybe the PTO shaft is trans clutch portion and not allow neither the engine nor the PTO to spin.
Tx Jim
New Member
Trying to rejoin both halves of tractor when top gap is 1'' & bottom gap is 1/2'' will lead to this.:banghead:
After getting top/bottom cracks EVEN if engine can't be rotated put trans in gear and rock one rear tire to move input shaft to align splines.
After getting top/bottom cracks EVEN if engine can't be rotated put trans in gear and rock one rear tire to move input shaft to align splines.
Tx Jim
New Member
Detection of spline alignment depends on what type pressure you're applying to join halves but the shafts need to be straight with the clutches with very little pressure being applied.
