JD 4310 hydro wont move forward

[rlpete]

jd 4310 has code 1 short and 3 long. I cant find a problem with wiring. there was a problem with a 2 wire connector, under tractor that was pulled loose by brush.
wire repaired but tractor wont move forward. backs up fine.

 

[mfreund]

Welcome,

You are on the right track. The code is for the forward coil being out of range due to open or short. Check all the wires under the tractor, pushing the wires back in to the connector and make sure the repaired wires are connected correctly.

There is another forum that has the 4X10 codes in their technical archive that you can down load for free. Google is your friend here. I tried to post a link, but is not allowed.

 

[rlpete]

thanks
there was a blue and black wire disconnected. on the other side of the connector the wires are both black. iam not sure if it makes a difference which way they go.
the book I received with the tractor shows nothing. it doesn't even have a correct picture of the fuse block

 

[mfreund]

In the tracer on the wires there should be printing. What do they say?

 

[rlpete]

lt blue wire 989

 

[mfreund]

Is this at the pedal? LT blue 686 is the middle wire to the forward potentiometer. There should be a a 636 orange on one end. The 686 LT blue in the middle and 550d black for ground. The forward proportional solenoid is LT blue 696 and a 050d black.

 

[rlpete]

Hi; I checked the power to the forward potentiometer and out of it. voltage looks good to the controller but no power out of it going to the forward proportional solenoid. I still have the same code, short and 3 long.
Do you know what could be blocking the power from the controller or possibly the controller is bad.
thanks for your help.

 

[mfreund]

Are you checking 686 LT blue out of controller? Check continuity to ground.

 

[rlpete]

yes on checking lt bl 686
good ground
should there be voltage out of controller to proportional valve, if so how much?
still have code short long long long

 

[mfreund]

Did you get the LT blue 686 fixed? There will not be any output on LT blue 696 without input from LT blue 686. Code will be there until problem is fixed. When the problem is fixed the code will self clear.

 

[rlpete]

I cant find any problems with 686 or any other wires. I used a digital multimeter to check wires.
I have good voltage from potentiometer {686} to the controller (4.8 volts max)
No voltage out of controller (696).
Thanks again for your help (I'm lost)

 

[mfreund]

It seems the controller may be bad, but I would pay JD to diagnose. Controller is north of $450. I would go back and recheck everything from the beginning with fresh eyes.

 

[rlpete]

Well I installed a new controller from meridian implement (new old stock) It was installed by someone before me.
Now I have code long long long long and short long long long when I turn the key on.
I reinstalled the old controller and when I turned on key I get one flash. Reverse works, but when forward pedal is pushed I get short long long long code.
Help
do you think the new controller is bad.

 

[rlpete]

Im back with original controller.,
I have no movement at all.
When key is on I have code long long long long, seat


short short long short fly wheel speed sensor
short long long long valve output

seat code comes on first and only one time. the sensor code and valve code repeat.

everything checks good according to the manual

 

[chickenman]

Well I installed a new controller from meridian implement (new old stock) It was installed by someone before me.
Now I have code long long long long and short long long long when I turn the key on.
I reinstalled the old controller and when I turned on key I get one flash. Reverse works, but when forward pedal is pushed I get short long long long code.
Help
do you think the new controller is bad.

make sure both peddles are tot turn key on wait at least 5 seconds then press forward peddle full down, hold for at least 5 seconds and release turn key off

repeat with backup peddle

this calibrates the peddle movement with the ecm

 

[chickenman]

the last thing you want to do is an auto calibration unless you know all components are in working order

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I had a similar problem happen to me 2 weeks ago. After nearly breaking all the plastic what ever their called keepers off, I got the protective cover off of the electronics underneath the pedals of they ehydro. I looked for wire problems or linkage problems and then I realized what was happening. One of the pedals was not returning to the fully up position because of lack of lubrication on the shaft it hinges on. I got out the remington teflon spray and hit it a bit and worked the pedal until it would come up to home easily. It was sticking slightly depressed and giving the computer a signal that I was backing up (while it was not actually backing up) just that it was ever so slightly not quite home. So the computer would not let me move forward. Very simple and cheap fix. Hardest part was removing the protector housing's keepers.

 

[chickenman]

i made a breakout for peddle calibration by buying connectors from jd that fit the connectors hooking up the peddle pots to the wire harness and baring 2 wires to hook up my multimeter too

 

[rlpete]

I wish I had read all the forum before I removed the fuse. That was not a good move.

I have tried many things and still cant get rid of the seat code (8), fly wheel speed sensor(4), and valve output(10)
The seat code comes on first and only one time. The other codes repeat over and over.
I pushed both pedals and got another code, but when I cycled key it was gone.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

The flywheel sensors seem to last about 10 years. There are actually 2 of these sensors on the tractor, I replaced 1 but not the other. I still get a code for the 1 old one, but it still works fine. Has your seat sensor been bypassed?