JD 214's

[choke7158]

I have 2 JD 214's..both run great, except one quits when the battery goes dead..hook up a charger and it will fire right back up..I have switched regulators between the two with no difference..I have checked the wires coming from the stator and get around 30 VAC and get around 14 VDC from the middle post on the regulator..I have found on both when running if you unhook the positive battery cables they quit...shouldn't they be like a car and keep running?? Is it possible all I need is a new battery? Maybe the old one won't take a charge...

 

[Joe1]

I don't know how old the battery is, but if you suspect the battery the best way is to take it out of the tractor. Make sure it's full of water, charge it up and take it to an auto parts place that can perform a "load test". The test should be for free since they want to sell you a new battery anyway.

Good luck.

If both batteries are old and about the same age, with winter coming on you might want to have them both checked. At least have the suspect one checked.

 

[Dutch445]

One place to check is your ignition switch,,
if it has shorted out or failed you will not
get any charging to the battery, and after a while
battery power will drain to the point that ignition
starts to fail..
simple and easy to start with

let us know how it goes

 

[Joe1]

Choke:

Welcome to the forum. It helps get answers if you fill in some info on your profile.

 

[Fordlords]

The 214's Kohler engine uses what is called a battery/points ignition system, where the battery needs to be in place in order for the ignition circuit to be complete- it will not work without the battery connected.

After the engine starts, what is the voltage at the battery posts? It should be around 14.5 volts if the engine charging system and the wiring is OK. I agree to check the ignition switch, it is a common culprit for keeping charging current from getting to the battery.

-Fordlords-

 

[DOUBLEG]

On my JD216 I have had a number of wires short out to the frame which resulted in a dead battery. Check for broken wires which are touching the frame before doing anything. The amp meter never showed any problems.

Good luck.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

...shouldn't they be like a car and keep running??

I'm not sure about this particular model, but a lot of engines have induction generators. Rather than permanent magnets they have electromagnets in the generator/alternator. These take power to make power. This is most likely why your engine dies when the battery is disconnected.

Now as to why it's drawing down, I'd differ to previous posts...short somewhere, ignition, bad battery, etc.

 

[Fordlords]

Mower engines with charge outputs have used permanent flywheel mounted magnet/dry stator alternators for the past 30+ years. With these there is always a regulator/rectifier module to convert the alternator's 3 phase AC output to DC for the battery and keep the voltage steady depending on supply and demand from the tractor, that being ignition and lighting, PTO draw, etc.

Electronic ignition modules came on the scene about 15 yeras ago, they are either battery or magneto powered. In the case of the older JD 214, it has a mechanical points ignition on it's Kohler K321 that will not run at all without the battery coupled in to the circuit regardless if the charge system is operating or not.

-Fordlords-

 

[choke7158]

I purchased a new battery and put it in the 214 that wouldn't charge the battery...It fired and ran fine, however when I checked the output at the battery terminals with the engine running at full throttle, I only got 12.5 V..(Fordlord said it should read 14.5 V).....same as I got when I checked the battery (not running)...I guess maybe the ignition is next? Would a bad switch let it start ok?

 

[bontai_Joe]

I purchased a new battery and put it in the 214 that wouldn't charge the battery...It fired and ran fine, however when I checked the output at the battery terminals with the engine running at full throttle, I only got 12.5 V..(Fordlord said it should read 14.5 V).....same as I got when I checked the battery (not running)...I guess maybe the ignition is next? Would a bad switch let it start ok?

Your charging system is not working.

 

[Dutch445]

Since you earlier posted that voltage coming from the stator is at 30,
then it sounds like the charging system is working, but not getting thru
and into the battery.... again, check the ignition switch, as voltage
has to pass thru this switch (which is between the regulator and battery).
have i got it right Fordlords?

 

[Fordlords]

Yes, you have it right Even now like back in the days of the 214, the ignition switch is at the heart of the electrical schematic. The three phase (3 legs of the stator, all of which need to have around 30V AC between them for the charge system to work) are sent through the rectifier/regulator to become around 14V DC, then that charge current flows from there back through the ignition switch and related wiring to the battery to charge it while the engine is running. Even though most new small engines use electronic ignitions and R/R modules, the basic principles remain the same today, and electrical problems still remain the #1 small engine trouble spot.

-Fordlords-

 

[Argohunter]

Does any one have a parts or shop manual for the 214?

 

[kwolfe]

I have a 1985 210 with a K241. Does the engine work the same way. In the exloded view on the Deere sight I see the stator, coild and points. Do I also have a battery hooked up to have it run. I would have thought that the stator, coil and points are self-sustaining. Thanks