It's broken HELP

[gotrocks]

Just noticed the bolt laying loose, looked closer the housing is broken.
If the old part number is what I need $430 + if new part number $548 +.

Please give me your experience or suggestions for this fix.

Some of my concerns are;
Cast iron does not weld like steel. I have the small chard that is broken off.
Heat from welding may damage seals or ??

My first thought was make a one piece steel plate weld the top link brackets to it and attach with the three good bolts and try to be more careful.

Thanks for all who take time to offer suggestions.
Here is pic with top link brackets removed.

 

[scott_vt]

My first thought was make a one piece steel plate weld the top link brackets to it and attach with the three good bolts and try to be more careful.

Thanks for all who take time to offer suggestions.
Here is pic with top link brackets removed.

View attachment 123840

Good Afternoon Norris,
I would want to at least consult someone that is proficient in welding cast iron to look at it, and also somone else that knows tractors for the opinions on the heat issues !

Yes IMO a steel plate with the three bolts holding it to the case should work fine, but in the back of your mind you know its not the way it was when coming from the factory !

Explore all your options and then make an educated decision !

 

[two_bit_score]

JB Weld?

 

[polo1665]

Just noticed the bolt laying loose, looked closer the housing is broken.
If the old part number is what I need $430 + if new part number $548 +.

Please give me your experience or suggestions for this fix.

Some of my concerns are;
Cast iron does not weld like steel. I have the small chard that is broken off.
Heat from welding may damage seals or ??

My first thought was make a one piece steel plate weld the top link brackets to it and attach with the three good bolts and try to be more careful.

Thanks for all who take time to offer suggestions.
Here is pic with top link brackets removed.

I can't tell by the picture. Do the threads extend further into the housing (past the broken section)? If so you may be able to JB weld the chard back on and get a bolt long enough to reach the solid threads past the broken section. If there are enough threads left you could tighten it up pretty well like that. I would not use JB weld unless this was the case.

Mark

 

[dqdave1]

You may be able to drill and tap a new bolt location next to the broken bolt hole. Then use the metal plate youmentioned with a stud attached to metal plate at old location. This would be about as strong as before IMHO.

 

[DanD78]

You may be able to drill and tap a new bolt location next to the broken bolt hole. Then use the metal plate youmentioned with a stud attached to metal plate at old location. This would be about as strong as before IMHO.

I like this idea or lay a stud in the broken out area and weld it in place then use a nut on the stut instead of a bolt.

Dan

 

[Diamondpilot]

I did the same thing to my tractor with my Post Hole Digger. I used JB Weld to fill the area and I got a 4 studs and put them in bottomed out. I used washers, lock washers, and nuts to then fasten. I then drilled and taped 2 other holes between the 4 hole and have never had a problem. Mine was cast also.

Chris

 

[firemanpat2910]

Im in favor of the last two suggestions even if you welded a smaller bolt, or a larger bolt ground down to be easier to weld in then use the steel plate with a nut. or steel plate with 2 or 3 smaller holes drilled and tapped into housing if you dont have big tap.

ok make that the last 3 suggestions LOL we were typing at the same time

 

[gotrocks]

TBN, The Best News, for tractors and other things.
Did not see anyone named Johnny but everyone was
"Johnny on the spot" with help for this one.

I'll start looking at a plate and see if we can drill a new
hole and tap it.

Thanks everyone.

Any others that came in late, let's have your ideas also.

 

[sandman2234]

Since you have only one good chance at fixing it, you might consider seeking professional help with the drilling and tapping of the new holes, and welding of the others. Granted, there are people on this board that make some of the local shops work look like kids did it, but if your just a reasonablely mechanically inclined guy with an average array of tools, it might be worth investigating what a machine shop would charge to build your adapter. Hopefully you have a shop that does a little farm equipment maintance, so they won't be surprised at what your suggesting.
David from jax

 

[Sackett2]

Not sure what goes onto the spot; but here is my opinion.
JB weld would make it look it look OK, but no real strength for that point.
Assuming that the most force is a pull(?) Flat steel plate connecting the remaining 3 holes, thickness(?) of the steel depending on the pulling force. Tap a 4th hole if possible and/or build a strap and bolt it to the plate where the broken bolt is, bending it back and attach it to the big shiny bolt on the frame behind the tank, assuming that neither of these parts move. this would support the pull action that would be missing.

 

[Wayne_H]

I would look for a used part from another tractor. Have you checked for used ones? JB weld is great stuff, but it won't work here.

Wayne

 

[greenmule]

It probably is cast iron,but maybe not?If the piece that broke off is big enough,you might be able to tell by having someone look at it,running a bead on it would tell you alot,theres a spark test that will also show cast iron verses cast steel,[never done it but sparks are different color][different carbon content],in other words if it is steel,than you can fix this up by welding[some how or other].You can weld cast iron too of course,but....

And yeah,jbweld is good for stopping leaks and such,but not for something like this.
Forgot to add,even if it is steel,see your point about getting area hot[seals and such,oil,etc]

 

[valley]

Greetings Norris, I think I'd weld it. Or have it welded. Than drill and retap for a slightly larger bolt. It won't matter if one bolt is SAE. There will be heat there so if there is a seal or rubber you might want to remove it but I would just weld it. You can take your time dressing the front flat surface. I've had good luck with welded parts even generator mounts where there is pressure and vibration. If you have a welder go to a welding supply talk rods with them. They help you chose the rod. You might already know how to weld cast, just do it! You can always buy another part. I can't see in the picture. If there is a broken piece. Grind a V so you can make more than on pass with your weld. You'll be happer with it if you fix it. Richard

 

[AKfish]

Weld it. Pull the 3pt lift arm off and remove the seals before welding. The casting looks hefty enough that most of the heat won't spread real far.

Best of luck.

AKfish

 

[Cocre]

Years back I would use Certanium brand rods for welding cast iron. The end results mostly depended on the quality of the cast iron. Cast parts often have impurities and air pockets in the metal that lead to less than stellar welds, but often the welds would be excellent. The welds often have little pits and air holes where impurities vaporized through the semi-molten iron as it solidified. This was 20 plus years ago, I suspect metallurgy has improved things since then.

With cast you may want to evenly pre-heat the parts before striking an arc, not so much as to fry an egg, but enough to help prevent rapid heat born expansion from cracking the cast elsewhere. If you can't get the seals out, you may want to leave the hitch arms on to act as a heat sink. Also damp rags wrapped around nearby points can help pull heat from critical parts. Apply them as things start to warm up and keep them wet.

 

[tommu56]

Put a steel plate over 4 holes tap upper left hole clearance drill the other 3 then an other piece of steel back to hole on top back were fill/breather is the weld the 2 plates were they meet..


tom

 

[polo1665]

I went home last night and looked to seee where your broken part was located. Guess I should have done that before I replied. I now have to agree with the consensus. Even if there are threads left there is no way that you will hold that cast piece in place with JB. What surprises me is that there are only four bolts to begin with. I would take Diamondpilot's suggestion and put a couple more in. Six would seem much better.

Mark

 

[kcarl]

I just went through a similar situation with a cracked axle housing. For mine, I had to replace the housing with a used one from West Kentucky Tractor Parts. This was due to stress in the area of the crack and the fact that it had to be removed for repair and was a major pain to do so.

While researching cast iron welding I found that the part would have to be removed first, preheating and slow cooling was very critical, and results were iffy, though for your situation, I think I'd try it if a replacement part is too costly. Just be sure you find a welder that is very familiar with cast iron - not all are, though most say they can do it.

good luck

 

[greenmule]

Well,like I said,it might not be cast iron,[cast steel welds like plain ole steel],experienced welder can tell by looking and by running a little bead on it.And there is a spark test you can do,[would have to dig out my old book,but steel makes one kinda shaped colored spark when grinding on it and cast iron makes another,carbon content is why] You could get a piece of steel and than that piece that broke off and try it and see. But once you fire up on it,you'll be able to tell,[talking about using steel filler,e-60xx,e-7018,etc.]

If it is just cast steel,no big deal,you don't gotta preheat it up[would be nice,but you don't need to],don't gotta worry about slow cooling and what rod to use,and the fact that after you get done,it might not hold anyway. And if you just weld a little and let cool,weld a tad and let cool,you might not have to worry about a seal or something melting,[might not,but...]