isappointed with Middle Buster

[GrantMO]

Alan,
Another thing you can try if your ground is hard is to drop one ripper on your boxblade down as low as it will go. This will soften things up and you can then use the middle buster.
Grant

 

[looch]

Your welcome and yeah, you're looking at it correctly. Sorry - I don't like to include more than what is necessary - which isn't always obvious to the person taking the picture.

Actually, mine is a B7500 but I don't expect there to be much of a difference in the 3ph arm set up.

Paul

 

[djradz]

Alan, if you'd like another way using a standard rear blade, let me know. Angling one at about a 45 degree or sharper angle, and then adjusting the right side 3-pt arm to get the forward side of the blade way down, can do some serious digging after multiple passes. The advantage comes from one side of the tractor's wheels riding in the trench while making additional passes. I've gone about 16 inches deep this way. The tractor get to leaning quite a bit, but it works. Let me know if you'd like to try a different route.

 

[Alan L.]

djradz, I don't currently own a rear blade, but probably will get one at some point. Maybe I should have gotten one instead of the middle buster. We'll see next weekend.

 

[em14]

Jim,
Years ago we used the "sub-soiler" to break the crust or pan of the soil so that water would penetrate to get more water in the ground and less running off. I have also used a single ripper (which is much the same as a sub-soiler and is used for breaking up compacted soil so a pan or grader could do it’s job more effectively), mounted on a large dozier, to precede a cable layer to make it easier for the cable layer in rocky and heavy clay terrain.
The middle busters that I am familiar with are used to plow the middle of a row of a crop to throw soil on the base of the plants and to loosen the soil. This is what I have always heard called “hilling” … it’s been a very long time since I have been involved in row crops.
Of coarse, these implements can be used for many purposes as is obvious by the many uses seen on TBN …

 

[ronjhall]

Alan
I have attached a section from the 27-2910 manual that explains what Paul shows in his picture. Its on page 36 of the operation section of the manual. Hope your Middle Buster doesn’t go to deep. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[Mosey]

The bottom of that page in the manual says "attached to B hole for higher lifting height". That's backwards! Attaching to the B hole will allow the arm to go lower and it won't lift as high as it will if it's attached to the A hole.

 

[looch]

I was just thinking the same thing. More depth, less height, less lifting capacity.

Bad information is worse than not having any at all. A glaring mistake like that should have been picked up. I hope there are not more, less obvious errors in that manual.

 

[Hoeman00]

If u can try moving the link to
B hole it should go higher and lower
but w/ less lifting cap.
The B hole swings on a smaller radius.

 

[looch]

I think you're not allowing for the fact that when you move the lift arms closer to the tractor, you're actually going to have to push the 3ph arms down quite a ways in order to connect then to the "B" holes.

I'm not an engineer, but I think it has something to do with the angle between the lift arm and the arm that is actually hooked to the hydraulics. If anyone can help with the terminology, feel free to jump in anytime.

Check out my very sad drawing.

 

[Mosey]

"moving the link to B hole it should go higher and lower"

I have to disagree. To prove it, put the link in the A hole, use the 3pt position control lever to raise the 3pt to the highest height, and measure the height at the end of the arm. Next, without moving the 3pt lever, move the link to the B hole. In order to do that, you'll have to lower the arm. Measure the height again and it will be lower.

 

[gerard]

Don't know about the A hole B hole but if you use the holes nearest the tractor you will have greater range of the 3 pt, ie the end of the arms where they hook to the implement will go higher and lower than in the other position but you will lose overall lifting capacity which is not a factor when using a middle buster/subsoiler so use the holes nearest the tractor to maximize the depth of cut.

 

[ronjhall]

Danny
Must be the Japanese translation that is backwards. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif
This may be why Alan didn’t recognize that he could make that change to lower his Middle Buster. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[Chuck52]

If you had infinitely adjustable lift arms, the range would indeed be greater. However, with most setups, you'll only go farther in one direction. In this case, it looks like he'll go lower if he goes from A to B.

Chuck

 

[normde2001]

I agree, Tim. Assuming the lower lift arm is above horizontal in the raised position and below horizontal in the lowered position, in the raised position you would have to raise the lift arm to hookup from A to B, and lower it to hookup in the lowered position. The book is correct.

 

[theboman]

Something ain't right somewhere. I have a B7500 and it'll keep going down to I'd bet a foot with my tater plow. I can dig deeper than the tractor can pull.

Is the one you bought custom built/homemade? You ain't trying to plow concrete? joking.

The problem I have with my tater plow ain't how deep it's how high, cause lifted all the way up in the "A" holes I have about 4" of ground clearance. I ain't complaining.

 

[Mosey]

Here's a drawing of what I was saying earlier. With the top lever in it's highest position, put the side link in the A hole and measure the height at the end of the arm. Then move the link to the B hole. In order to do that, you'll have to lower the arm.

 

[looch]

Thanks for clearing up what I was trying to get across.

 

[Hoeman00]

The geometry of the arms should more closely
match the tractor.
Try and shorten the lower arms and increase the
angle when raised up.
The links that come down need to be shortened also.

 

[JohnMiller3]

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/5-211091-RearBladeDitching-8%27-800.jpg>Here's another way for ditching and maybe somewhat more versatile by using a rear blade...</A>