Is modern tractor repair like modern car repair and super complicated requiring a dealer?

[ray66v]

The idea that repairing modern cars is too complicated, and requires a dealer, mostly isn't true.

Unless you drive a high end late model car, which is going to be under warranty, most things can be done without involving the dealer. I have seen BMW's that required the dealer to reset the computer, after ridiculous things like valve cover gasket replacement, and battery replacement go through the shop. (Caveat emptor).

Yes, it's probably going to require more steps to do a repair, but the level of intimidation depends on your level of experience. Most of the time, it's not as bad as it looks.

Diagnosing has gotten easier, since a modern car will often tell you exactly what's wrong.

We now have more complicated tools now too. You can fix almost anything if you have the internet.

I don't care for things like having to pull an intake manifold to replace spark plugs, but they also don't have plug wires to replace, and last for 100k miles.

Electrical problems are more common now, due to the miles of wires all the computerization uses. But, those issues are often common, and in that case, the internet can get you to the problem.

 

[Oaktree]

Yes, it's probably going to require more steps to do a repair, but the level of intimidation depends on your level of experience. Most of the time, it's not as bad as it looks.

Diagnosing has gotten easier, since a modern car will often tell you exactly what's wrong.

We now have more complicated tools now too. You can fix almost anything if you have the internet.

Well, yes and no. Most of the OBD scan tools you get at HF or an autoparts store will give you the code, and maybe a hint as to what might cause it, but to go any deeper you need to spend $$$ for a pro-level one. A necessary expense if you do that for a living, but way overkill for most backyard mechanics. Yeah, there are online forums and maybe someone else has seen the problem before and maybe it even was caused by the same thing as yours was, maybe not. You don't just want to throw parts at it.
Then there's the issue of actually accessing the failed component...automakers have a talent for putting the sensor that fails the most in the most inaccessible place.

 

[hiddentacocatneddih]

I wish my $20 scan tool did the data logging and read out the dealer level tools do. I fought an issue with my wifes old van for a year or so.

Took it to the dealer. Claimed the cat was clogged. Replaced under warranty. I asked how is the cat clogged in 60K miles. Shruggs.

Year later, same issues. Misfires randomly and acting strange under throttle. I looked at the fuel trim in my scan tool and one bank(rear) had a huge -% compared to the front bank. Went to hook a process meter to the 02 sensor to check it and/or swap with the opposite bank and see if it followed. Sensor is in such a terrible spot so i just swapped it. Problem solved. Sensor wasn't just failed open or short, but sending erroneous signal. Computer only detects a hard failure.

My lexus knock sensor harness shorted. Known issue on rx300,s. Spliced the one good sensor into both inputs to satisfy the computer. This one took a while to figure out since wiring diagrams are hard to come by.

 

[RandyT]

Well, yes and no. Most of the OBD scan tools you get at HF or an autoparts store will give you the code, and maybe a hint as to what might cause it, but to go any deeper you need to spend $$$ for a pro-level one. A necessary expense if you do that for a living, but way overkill for most backyard mechanics. Yeah, there are online forums and maybe someone else has seen the problem before and maybe it even was caused by the same thing as yours was, maybe not. You don't just want to throw parts at it.
Then there's the issue of actually accessing the failed component...automakers have a talent for putting the sensor that fails the most in the most inaccessible place.

Was watching a video a few months back about some car with a special engine that requires removing the engine and transmission to replace an O2 sensor that you don't test and can't even access with the engine in the car. flat rate time was something like 56 hours labor.

 

[DaBear3428]

A new ecu is cheaper than efi live and a lisence.


I put about 3000 miles on my truck a year so I am not super motived to change it.

Ou are correct but that is not the point, you can do a lot with today's efi systems

 

[ray66v]

Well, yes and no. Most of the OBD scan tools you get at HF or an autoparts store will give you the code, and maybe a hint as to what might cause it, but to go any deeper you need to spend $$$ for a pro-level one. A necessary expense if you do that for a living, but way overkill for most backyard mechanics. Yeah, there are online forums and maybe someone else has seen the problem before and maybe it even was caused by the same thing as yours was, maybe not. You don't just want to throw parts at it.
Then there's the issue of actually accessing the failed component...automakers have a talent for putting the sensor that fails the most in the most inaccessible place.

I said "mostly". Yes, of course, there are some uncommon problems that require a higher degree of skill, and or some equipment to fix.

I have access to a "pro level" scanner. I never use it. They give the same codes as the cheap ones. They can help with testing, and history. But, you can test things with out a scanner. Most of the time an volt/ohm meter is all you need, it's just less convenient.

If your problem is common, (99% of the time), you simply google the year, the vehicle, and the code. In a few minutes, you will know more than you want to know.

I rarely "throw parts at it". If I do, it's after exhausting all my other options. Every repair shop, even the dealership sometimes does that too.

 

[DaBear3428]

I wish my $20 scan tool did the data logging and read out the dealer level tools do. I fought an issue with my wifes old van for a year or so.

Took it to the dealer. Claimed the cat was clogged. Replaced under warranty. I asked how is the cat clogged in 60K miles. Shruggs.

Year later, same issues. Misfires randomly and acting strange under throttle. I looked at the fuel trim in my scan tool and one bank(rear) had a huge -% compared to the front bank. Went to hook a process meter to the 02 sensor to check it and/or swap with the opposite bank and see if it followed. Sensor is in such a terrible spot so i just swapped it. Problem solved. Sensor wasn't just failed open or short, but sending erroneous signal. Computer only detects a hard failure.

My lexus knock sensor harness shorted. Known issue on rx300,s. Spliced the one good sensor into both inputs to satisfy the computer. This one took a while to figure out since wiring diagrams are hard to come by.

Yep can be frustrating, but on the other hand back in the day, at 60k miles you were planning on replacing the engine and may be the Trans or clutch. By 100k the pistons were swapping holes.

 

[hiddentacocatneddih]

Yep can be frustrating, but on the other hand back in the day, at 60k miles you were planning on replacing the engine and may be the Trans or clutch. By 100k the pistons were swapping holes.

Thankfully that was years before my time. I wouldn't wish a carburetor on my worst enemies. But i love a mechanical diesel.

 

[DaBear3428]

Was watching a video a few months back about some car with a special engine that requires removing the engine and transmission to replace an O2 sensor that you don't test and can't even access with the engine in the car. flat rate time was something like 56 hours labor.

Yea well we had some stupid stuff also back in the day. Porsche 914 I seam to remeber that the ac compressor was a PITA to replace.

 

[DaBear3428]

Thankfully that was years before my time. I wouldn't wish a carburetor on my worst enemies. But i love a mechanical diesel.

True that! I was into small light and agile back then I use to drive my father nuts with the Fiat X1/9s had 3 of them each one worse than the last. They were a blast to drive but a lot of work to keep on the road.