dieselscout80
Veteran Member
Not sure on the exact weight but it is a big chunk of cast iron.
The three point lift arms also have to be disconnected and those upper lift arm crosses can be very difficult to remove.
International 444, 1968. Progress Thread, Getting Going
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The three point lift arms also have to be disconnected and those upper lift arm crosses can be very difficult to remove.
If I can get the housing raised about 2" and set on blocks I may not need to remove the housing away from the area. I think that will give me enough room to work the last bolt out of the trans top cover. We'll see. If that would work I wouldnt have to disconnect the 3pt lift arms.
dieselscout80
Veteran Member
Not sure if that would allow you enough space to clean and reseal the opening below the lift housing between it and the rear axle housing.
There are some YouTube videos done by a Canadian guy on rebuilding one of those series tractors. I think it’s a 444 that he did.
I finally got around to more work on the old machine this evening. I got the remote valve off the side of the lift housing and had access to all the housing bolts
While I was working on it I noticed another access cover/top plate under the seat. Is there anything special in there that has to be loosened/undone in porder to get the lift housing up and away?
While I was working on it I noticed another access cover/top plate under the seat. Is there anything special in there that has to be loosened/undone in porder to get the lift housing up and away?
dieselscout80
Veteran Member
I have not done what you are doing, but I don’t think there is.
That plate is for making adjustments to the 3 point system.
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Reading through the service manual - there isn't a specific description for the 444, though they do call out the 504 and 2504 series that appears to be similar, tough I don't believe exact.
With the hydraulic lines undone, what needs to be (non-flexible lines), and the remote/aux valve out of the way for access to one of the housing bolts, it appears there is nothing really holding things up from pulling apart the housing - just the "stuff" on the outside that I've already addressed.
I'll see about getting the hoist in place this evening and see where things go.
With the hydraulic lines undone, what needs to be (non-flexible lines), and the remote/aux valve out of the way for access to one of the housing bolts, it appears there is nothing really holding things up from pulling apart the housing - just the "stuff" on the outside that I've already addressed.
I'll see about getting the hoist in place this evening and see where things go.
There are 2 more PN's I'm looking for - gaskets.
The first I believe is the gasket between the transmission case/rear end and the lift housing. The parts book doesn't show the lift housing above so I am guessing that is for a variant of models/options that mine is not, but the main transmission/rear end housing is the same so I assume the gasket for the top is the same as what fits under the lift housing. That PN is - 703967R2.
The other is the gasket between the remote/auxiliary valve and the side of the lift housing. That PN is - 3 061055R2. I've tried searching with and without the 3 in the front, space, no space. No luck - not the CNH store or Ebay.
I do have question on the lift housing cover plate. The diagram for it in the parts book shows it underneath the lift housing. I havent been that far in to it yet to see if that is there and if it comes apart in my situation or not. The gasket there is PN 751499R2, if it is needed also.
My fall-back plan is to use the goop gasket maker stuff that comes in a tube, though I would rather not do that.
The first I believe is the gasket between the transmission case/rear end and the lift housing. The parts book doesn't show the lift housing above so I am guessing that is for a variant of models/options that mine is not, but the main transmission/rear end housing is the same so I assume the gasket for the top is the same as what fits under the lift housing. That PN is - 703967R2.
The other is the gasket between the remote/auxiliary valve and the side of the lift housing. That PN is - 3 061055R2. I've tried searching with and without the 3 in the front, space, no space. No luck - not the CNH store or Ebay.
I do have question on the lift housing cover plate. The diagram for it in the parts book shows it underneath the lift housing. I havent been that far in to it yet to see if that is there and if it comes apart in my situation or not. The gasket there is PN 751499R2, if it is needed also.
My fall-back plan is to use the goop gasket maker stuff that comes in a tube, though I would rather not do that.
DJ54
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Found all three PDQ. Google can be your friend.
Although I found those gaskets, they seem pretty pricey. You may want to consider making your own, it's really not all that hard. Most auto parts stores sell 1/16" gasket material in rolls up to 18" X 36". It can be bought in larger sheets other places.
If you can get the cover out of the way to be able to work all that's really needed is proper sized gasket material, a couple medium sized ball pein hammers, the sharper point on the end the better, and most importantly a working steam iron to flatten out the rolled material, and a makeshift ironing board out of plywood, etc. And some patience. I made nearly all of the gaskets on my Farmall 130 & 140 when rebuilding the rearends & PTO's.
You'll want the surface cleaned up. For smaller area gaskets, cut a piece slightly larger that needed. Lay it on the piece you're making the gasket for. Take the pointed end of the hammer and tap out the bolt holes first. I have multiple ball pein hammers in the 6 oz. to 12 oz. range specifically for this purpose. Get eh bolt holes tapped out one at a time, then insert a bolt to hold the sheet in place. Once all bolts are in place, start tapping on the inside edge. Most castings are sharp enough hitting right on the very edge with the pointed end will easily cut the gasket material. Depending on how large of a piece you're working on like the transmission case, once you've made the initial pass seeing the edge of the case working 3" - 4" at a time, you can turn the hammer over and use the flat end to cut it more cleanly.
You will more than likely end up with a few fuzzies on the edges. For this, take a good sharp utility knife, and rake backwards on those edges, and it will take those off.
I use Permatex brush on gasket sealant. Usually High Tack, or Aviation sealer. Both seal well but if needed can be taken back apart without tearing the gasket. Re-seal and put back on.
You'll no doubt have a large piece from the center of the transmission case left over. I save those pieces in a larger box for another job, another day. I know between those 2 tractors I saved well over $200 making my own gaskets. That money saved went towards bearings & seals.
We had an old school mechanic at work that taught me that, and more than several other things. He made a lot of things, even specialized tools for certain jobs.
Although I found those gaskets, they seem pretty pricey. You may want to consider making your own, it's really not all that hard. Most auto parts stores sell 1/16" gasket material in rolls up to 18" X 36". It can be bought in larger sheets other places.
If you can get the cover out of the way to be able to work all that's really needed is proper sized gasket material, a couple medium sized ball pein hammers, the sharper point on the end the better, and most importantly a working steam iron to flatten out the rolled material, and a makeshift ironing board out of plywood, etc. And some patience. I made nearly all of the gaskets on my Farmall 130 & 140 when rebuilding the rearends & PTO's.
You'll want the surface cleaned up. For smaller area gaskets, cut a piece slightly larger that needed. Lay it on the piece you're making the gasket for. Take the pointed end of the hammer and tap out the bolt holes first. I have multiple ball pein hammers in the 6 oz. to 12 oz. range specifically for this purpose. Get eh bolt holes tapped out one at a time, then insert a bolt to hold the sheet in place. Once all bolts are in place, start tapping on the inside edge. Most castings are sharp enough hitting right on the very edge with the pointed end will easily cut the gasket material. Depending on how large of a piece you're working on like the transmission case, once you've made the initial pass seeing the edge of the case working 3" - 4" at a time, you can turn the hammer over and use the flat end to cut it more cleanly.
You will more than likely end up with a few fuzzies on the edges. For this, take a good sharp utility knife, and rake backwards on those edges, and it will take those off.
I use Permatex brush on gasket sealant. Usually High Tack, or Aviation sealer. Both seal well but if needed can be taken back apart without tearing the gasket. Re-seal and put back on.
You'll no doubt have a large piece from the center of the transmission case left over. I save those pieces in a larger box for another job, another day. I know between those 2 tractors I saved well over $200 making my own gaskets. That money saved went towards bearings & seals.
We had an old school mechanic at work that taught me that, and more than several other things. He made a lot of things, even specialized tools for certain jobs.
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Excellent info. I didn't quote the whole thing, but there is a wealth of info there.
Do you have any thoughts on the gasket materials - what to use/what to stay away from? Or are they all comparable?
dieselscout80
Veteran Member
For what you’re doing I would just use silicone as it’s not containing any pressure.