Oil & Fuel Intermittent oil psi

jdj257 · Nov 26, 2006

Recently purchased a 165d, after a couple hours of use decided to change the oil and filter. Used rotella 15/40 and a fram filter(will be changing to wix). After running about 45 min lost oil psi replaced sending unit installed oil gauge still no psi did have a little flow over the valves. After studying diagram of lubrication system in owners manual I took filter off the filter and removed what I assume to be the oil pressure regulator(steel ball,spring and back adjusting nut) dismantled it cleaned and reinstalled it. Restarted engine and had oil psi. Next day went back out started tractor no oil psi repeated above procedure and got oil psi back. About 8 psi at idle and 35 at ~2500.
Called priior owner and asked whaty oil he used. He said he used delvac 15/40. Could switching of oil cause this problem? I know that in some diesel engines switching of oils can cause oil consumption for the first few oil changes. Had this happen on my powerstroke. Any help on this issue would be appreciated.
Thanks
JDJ257
SEMPER FI

kenmac · Nov 26, 2006

I don't think changing oil brands caused this problem . Mabe lack of oil changes from previous owner/ owners has caused sludge to build up in the engine causing this problem.I don't know what an oil reg. looks like on a 165d but, next time you have it apart to clean , look for small oil passages that may be stopped up with sludge

lens12 · Nov 30, 2006

The real problem is that either the oil wasn't changed often enough or an incorrect oil was used allowing sludge to build up. When you changed the oil the detergents in the oil loosened the sludge.

normde2001 · Nov 30, 2006

lens12 said:
The real problem is that either the oil wasn't changed often enough or an incorrect oil was used allowing sludge to build up. When you changed the oil the detergents in the oil loosened the sludge.

Yup, that's the reason, when detergent oils first came out in the 50's, we were always cautioned against using them in old engines.

California · Nov 30, 2006

normde2001 said:
Yup, that's the reason, when detergent oils first came out in the 50's, we were always cautioned against using them in old engines.

I ruined a '50 Olds doing that. Nice looking car, and it cost only $50 due to a blown muffler and bad valve cover gaskets that leaked on the exhaust manifolds. With the massive clouds of smoke and loud exhaust, I thought it might be a jewel in the rough worth renovating.

The muffler was easy but that had concealed bad lifter racket. (early hydraulic lifters). And I found the valve covers packed solid with black Jello. I first tried engine flush additive, then kerosene added and run before an oil change, and finally Delo oil. Each step loosened more crud and made the lifters louder. I drove it 2 years until it had rod knocks - either due to clogged oil distribution, or maybe my driving style - this was the same model sold for Highway Patrol cruisers in that year and I ran it pretty hard for an old car. I wish I hadn't sold it - those are probably worth a lot of money today!

Note to the younger generation - when gas was cheap, a large 10 year old car with a couple of years life left was the most economical transportation you could buy due to no depreciation cost. That's not a rational strategy today.

jdj257 · Nov 30, 2006

I haad pulled the valve cover to look at the inside everything looked real good no sludge no deposits or varnish. I ran motor flush through the motor replaced filter and delco 15/40. So far no issues I hope that solved my problem. Thanks for alll the advice.

kenmac · Nov 30, 2006

You may be able to do a good engine clean with the 15w-40 ch4 heavy det. diesel oil. Run the engine for a while In hopes that some of the sludge dissolves. Make sure the oil is good & hot ,then change oil & filter.Changing the oil when the oil is hot removes alot of contaminates that are still suspended in the oil. If this doesn't get the sludge out of the oil passages. You may want to try a product called AUTO-RX . I have known people that have used this product & they say it worked for them. It would beat taking the engine apart for cleaning. Good luck

jdj257 · Dec 2, 2006

What is autorx?

kenmac · Dec 2, 2006

Here's their site Auto-Rx Engine Cleaner Like I mentioned,I know people that have used the product with very good results. There are some that say it's snake oil & they are intitled to their opinion. I haven't needed to use the product but, wouldn't hesitate to try it if I thought I needed it.

normde2001 · Dec 2, 2006

kenmac said:
Here's their site Auto-Rx Engine Cleaner Like I mentioned,I know people that have used the product with very good results. There are some that say it's snake oil & they are intitled to their opinion. I haven't needed to use the product but, wouldn't hesitate to try it if I thought I needed it.

I believe I have used a similar product called "kerosene".

kenmac · Dec 2, 2006

I have heard of folkes along time ago using kerosene straight in the engine (without mixing it with oil)

I don't know if I would use it straight. I also have known people to use straight transmission fluid to clean out (as they said) their engine or to quite a ticking lifter. They all said it worked for them. I have never tired any of this as I have never had any (not to say I won't)

of these problems.We maybe able to give him ideas on something to try to get his oil pressure back without having to take the engine apart.

roxynoodle · Dec 2, 2006

I've run kerosene through a truck engine and it was fine. It also cleaned it up very well.

California · Dec 2, 2006

kenmac said:
I have heard of folks along time ago using kerosene straight in the engine (without mixing it with oil) I don't know if I would use it straight.

The ancient wisdom, the way I heard it, was to have at least 1 quart oil in the kerosene to maintain lubricity. And idle for a half hour or so, while parked - don't drive the vehicle.

normde2001 · Dec 2, 2006

California said:
The ancient wisdom, the way I heard it, was to have at least 1 quart oil in the kerosene to maintain lubricity. And idle for a half hour or so, while parked - don't drive the vehicle.

That's the way I did it, and the way my grand-pappy did it. Kerosene, unlike gasoline, does have some lubricating properties.

kenmac · Dec 2, 2006

I have used kerosene in my parts washer for years & it does a very good job on engine parts.

I know this is off the subject but, Iam going to ask anyway.

Cal, did you ever cut that hole in your water heater shed ? Or fab a small metal door for that area ?

California · Dec 3, 2006

kenmac said:
Cal, did you ever cut that hole in your water heater shed? Or fab a small metal door

Not yet. I haven't figured out how to do it. It already has a cobbled extension to make the front fit over the control. Maybe I should take it to somebody who knows how to bend sheetmetal.

My focus at this time is getting the rental cabin ready for another tenant. Today I replaced its space heater, an Empire MV-130 replacing an identical EcoTherm that had made a bunch of stress cracks in the chamber to celebrate its warranty expiration.

But I do think making a door for that control is the proper solution.

kenmac · Dec 3, 2006

how does that extension attatch to the structure ? You may be able to add a small henge to that extension on one side & fad some sort of latch on the other side to keep it closed. I have seen water heaters in those type of outside enclosers b-4. The ones I've seen have insulation lining the walls of the metal structure. How does a space heater get stress cracks ? space heaters (that I'am familiar with )don't have combustion chambers.Was it mabe, a circulator heater with a vent & mabe a blower that had the cracked chamber ? Most are radiant type space heaters.Here the code ( which changes all the time)states that space heaters are not allowed as a primary source of heat anymore.

California · Dec 3, 2006

Kenmac, (and for everyone else, this is way off topic and irrelevant to the thread!)

kenmac said:
how does that extension attach to the structure ? You may be able to add a small hinge to that extension on one side & fab some sort of latch on the other side to keep it closed....The ones I've seen have insulation lining the walls of the metal structure.

That's what I'm thinking. I can take the door (entire front of the cabinet) to a sheet metal shop and ask them to modify it like that. This cabinet isn't lined, just a jacket on the heater.

How does a space heater get stress cracks ? space heaters (that I'am familiar with )don't have combustion chambers....code ...states that space heaters are not allowed as a primary source of heat anymore.

This one is (was) sealed combustion chamber with concentric intake/exhaust pipes, straight through the wall.
http://www.empireheaterparts.com/pdf/mv-120-130-145.pdf (Page 2)
Several vertical ribs on the front of the chamber had cracked.
The replacement's manual states it is legal for mobile homes and this tiny cabin must have 10 times the air infiltration of a MH. Close enough. The replacement is near identical to what I took out but from a different company. I hope this one lasts longer than its warranty.