Installing Power steering with a V-Tek Loader on my 2020D Write up _ Lots of Images

   / Installing Power steering with a V-Tek Loader on my 2020D Write up _ Lots of Images #21  
I don't think your 3 point would require near the flow the loader does. The tank line off the loader valve is unpressured return only. You will not be able to run anything off of it.
 
   / Installing Power steering with a V-Tek Loader on my 2020D Write up _ Lots of Images #22  
Hmm. Ok. Then why did it work before like that? That's how it was set up from Fredricks. Worked fine until I installed the PB
 
   / Installing Power steering with a V-Tek Loader on my 2020D Write up _ Lots of Images #23  
Hmm. Ok. Then why did it work before like that? That's how it was set up from Fredricks. Worked fine until I installed the PB

Not sure I am following you but before installing the power beyond your return to the 3 point was pressured. Power beyond changes that.
 
   / Installing Power steering with a V-Tek Loader on my 2020D Write up _ Lots of Images #24  
That is correct Winston. How much pressure I dont know, probably not a lot but enough to to run the 3point. By adding in the PB the flow is directed to the PB instead of the 3 point unless I use the loader then the flow is sent back to the 3point. If you look at Hoyes website Installing remote hydraulics on your Yanmar. it will show that too and how it works. So I'm stumped on how to get the 3 point to work with the PB
 
   / Installing Power steering with a V-Tek Loader on my 2020D Write up _ Lots of Images #25  
I have given my opinion which is not worth much.
 
   / Installing Power steering with a V-Tek Loader on my 2020D Write up _ Lots of Images #26  
Thanks Winston, but I disagree with you. Any info you provide is worth it to me. It helps me figure things out a little better so thanks for your help!
 
   / Installing Power steering with a V-Tek Loader on my 2020D Write up _ Lots of Images #27  
Ok guys I have my PS install done and working like I want it to. I am sorry a head of time, I forgot to take a few pictures as I went a long but will do my best to describe what I did, or what happened. Tools you will need, 10mm wrench and short socket, 17mm, 19mm wrench, 3/4" wrench or socket, large crescent wrench, pipe dope, hand grinder if you use the long oil filters.
PS kit from Fredricks/Hoye
PS cylinder mounting bracket that goes over loader bracket on the left side of the frame

Bracket installed on frame

Do not forget the black spacer that slides over the large bolt at the rear of the bracket, it holds the PS cylinder up to avoid hitting the bracket


The bolts that hold the bracket to the frame are 3/4"
the 3rd bolt that goes to the transmission and block in this picture is 17mm

The factory drag link or steering link nuts with cotter key are 17mm sorry forgot to take a picture of that. The replacement nut in the kit is 19mm.
PS cylinder installed before modification to square housing

that square block does not work with long oil filters I almost punched a hole in mine. I didn't want to switch to the short oil filters because I have 4 of the long ones already in my shop and its a pain to change the short oil filters.
Here is a pic after I ground down that block as you can see the wound on my oil filter before I smoothed that piece out


The hydraulic line closest to the oil filter is the return line which is the longer of the 2 hydraulic lines
The hydraulic line on the left is the pressure line that is run over the bell housing under the fuel tank. That line is connected to the CF port on the FCR51 flow valve shown here. If you notice I used straight fittings instead of the 90 degree ones they sent in the kit, I figured better flow. The CF fitting is a 3/8 x 3/8 The EX port is 3/8 x 1/2


the right side of that FCR51 flow valve is labeled "EX" I will explain that part later
The return line is suppose to dump into your hydraulic fill port between your gear shifters, I had other plans so I routed the PS cylinder dump to a port under my seat shown here


I used a crescent wrench to remove this plug, threads are M18

The fitting shown here is a M18x1/2 elbow that went down to 3/8 to fit hydraulic line shown here


And now installed

The FCR51 Flow valve is installed on right side of the tractors bell housing bolt 17mm

Ok so the instructions say to remove the round port that connects to your hydraulic pump to feed the FCR51 valve, the valve will supply oil to the PS cylinder from the CF port and the EX port will go to your loader. I tried this and didn't like it. The PS was ok, but nothing to brag about. The loader was slow but still had lift capabilities. I decided to re-route the hydraulic lines. I left the pump feed the loader here, line from pump

to the loader valve which is line coming into the loader valve from the bottom

The line from the top of the loader valve is my Power Beyond port (PB) the line feeds the FCR51 valve from the IN port on the bottom, I also used a 45 degree elbow for better flow, I know that small applications like this it probably doesn't matter that much, but since our factor pumps only put out about 6 to 7 gpm I figured anything to make it easier to flow is a plus

The FCR51 CF port feeds the PS and the EX port now feeds the 3pt instead of going to the sump, this way the PS gets as much flow as I want to make it work really smooth and easy. pic here showing the EX to the 3pt




So back to diagram. The Pump feeds the loader valve (Koyker loader 120 is a Dinoil valve) the PB power beyond feeds the FCR51, the FCR51 CR port feeds PS, PS outflow to sump under my seat, FCR51 EX port feeds 3pt, loader valve outflow to sump between the shifters with supplied fitting in the kit which was suppose to be original sump port for PS outflow shown here.


that line is run under the dash and fuel tank out the right side to the loader outflow valve. The loader works great, smooth and fast, the PS works smooth and easy, the 3pt works slower but is able to raise my 5ft yanmar tiller, so I'm happy, my shoulder is happy, all is well. Just one catch, when using the loader the PS cuts out, I don't lose all PS function but most of it, I can still turn the wheel as before, just acts like it back to original steering is all, so I can deal with that. I can learn to lift before I turn ect. Hope everyone likes this and hope it is easy to follow. With the added parts, Hydraulic line for PB port, PB port, and extra fittings I spent an extra $65, but well worth it to me. More pics
[[URL=http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/JimBeamLover/media/2210d/IMG_1361_zpsa0pfeizf.jpg.html]]http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah114/JimBeamLover/2210d/IMG_1362_zps8no00hfh.jpg[/IMG][/URL]


 
   / Installing Power steering with a V-Tek Loader on my 2020D Write up _ Lots of Images #28  
Forgot to add one more thing. Someone had asked me if the 3pt could lift a (approximate) 900 pound wood chipper. The 3pt is able to lift my 5ft yanmar tiller with an extra 450 lbs added to it. At 1200 rpm's it was slow to lift it but was able to, at 1500 rpm's and added weight it did fine, at 1800-2000 rpm's and added weight it had zero problems and was very quick to lift. I'm not to worried.
 
   / Installing Power steering with a V-Tek Loader on my 2020D Write up _ Lots of Images #29  
Great job !!.. I like ps.. where did you get the power beyond fitting for your loader valve ?..I called Koyker to get mine.. They have very bad customer service.. The guy I spoke with acted like I was bothering him to ask to buy the fitting
 
   / Installing Power steering with a V-Tek Loader on my 2020D Write up _ Lots of Images #30  
Yeah Kenmac I had to get mine from Koyker too. I looked all over for one local and no luck. The guy I talked to was pretty nice and knew exactly what I was talking about. Had mine in 2 days.
 

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