Installing new septic system in progress

[LS Tractor Owner]

Here are a few pics of the septic system for the new house I plan to build. So far I have the 1000 gal tang in and partially back filled ( the hole was 8'w, 12'l, and 6' d). 1 of 2 trenches for the leach field is dug ( 56' long, 2' w, and 5' deep. There is a pile of 38 tons of rock that will go in the trenches. This little tractor has not let me down and does not cease to amaze me in what it can do! I have to go back on duty for the next 3 days, but can't wait to finish the system next week.

 

[BoylermanCT]

Nice you can do it yourself in NM. Here in CT you have to be a licensed installer and it will cost $25,000 easily.

 

[RNeumann]

Instead of caps at the end of the leach lines do 90° and daylight them. I would also do clean out fittings at the beginning (tank side) of the lines and daylight those as well. Makes for easy inspection, maintenance and it's just nice to know where things are.

It's hard to tell but it looks like a simple T between the two lines. Remember the flow out of a septic tank is very minimal. With that thought the tee will have to be perfect or better to ensure even distribution between the two lines. Most would opt for a distribution box so it's easier to adjust as things move over time. You will want to mark that location too.

Based on the tank size, rock and pipe length I'm guessing a two maybe three bedroom place?

Looks good! Nice work. It's looking good out there! The panel etc also looks good! The dream is near.....

 

[Cataclysm]

Good job! Way to get some work out of your tractor!!

What's the daily flow and who designed the system?

 

[travlitt]

I designed and installed my septic system for my shop. Here we have to get a permit form the county. Then they will inspect it before it is back filled. If it passes,
they issue you a certificate and it is recorded with drawings at the county health department.

 

[PILOON]

Nice you can do it yourself in NM. Here in CT you have to be a licensed installer and it will cost $25,000 easily.

Septics are probably the hardest hit by inflation. (or is it bureaucracy)

I recall only 10 yrs back you could have a system installed by a contractor for about $3000. and now it costs $30,000.
You could also DIY it and even get a permit to do so.
A perk test was as simple as a hole and bucket of water but now you need a soil engineer to certify that simple process and that at a cost.

 

[shaeff]

Looking good, may want to consider a distribution box. Makes it really easy to adjust flow between the leach-field pipes.

I envy you, being able to put in your own system. We argued with the Board of Health for WEEKS (causing weeks of delays) because they kept trying to screw us on where the system had to go. In the end we both won, I used reverse psychology on them and it worked a treat, they still made me put in a "mound" or "above ground" system so it was costly. Still better than the area they wanted the system to be placed.

Ours is in a 4' fill bed, original soil is undisturbed. Total cost was $18,000.

To touch base on them trying to screw us- they wanted a 20' wide x 100' long system running behind the house, which meant they wouldn't allow us to have a walk out basement because if the system failed we'd get grey water in our basement. We finally settled on the original spot where I wanted it by making them think it was their idea. The ground in that area perked very well, dead center in their specs. They still made us put in an above ground system. Luckily, we were able to build it into two hill sides so it's not just a gigantic lump in the yard.

Keep posting pics!

 

[zmountaineer]

In WV we would have been able to install our own. Just had to take a test at the health department and have it inspected before it was covered. The wife took the test (open book) and got certified. Perk test failed so we had to hire an installer. We put in a standard system with an aeration tank for when it failed later on to save a few thousand $$$. The health department wanted us to put in 4 100 foot legs. Our cost was $10500. Oh and when the installer got the lines down to level around the hill the soil changed considerably and said we'll likely never have to activate the aeration. We activated it anyway and set it up for an easy transition. It's a shame we weren't allowed to just put in a full aeration system from the start.

 

[not2old]

The costs always go up when government gets involved and they require you to hire a "qualified contractor". We can only blame the idiots who don't do theirs properly who force the government to pass the regulations. The only thing dumber than government is the people who elect them.

 

[jimmysisson]

Probably not in NM but around here you'd have to fill that tank so a big rain didn't float it out of the ground. Nice views, and a nice straight trench. Must not be many rocks!
Jim

 

[RNeumann]

Probably not in NM but around here you'd have to fill that tank so a big rain didn't float it out of the ground. Nice views, and a nice straight trench. Must not be many rocks!
Jim

Yes this standard practice. It also provides some outward pressure as you backfill- this is more for the plastic tanks.

 

[bandaidmd]

Plastic tanks are just starting to gain popularity here where im at but they have a big chunk of concrete at the base.

 

[RNeumann]

Strange! We like them because one or two guys and push them around- helps with difficult sites. Obviously the concrete makes that impossible.

 

[PILOON]

One of my scariest jobs that failed was to excavate and install a plastic tank.
OK excavation went well and client said they'd do the field next year.
Well they had no intention of doing so and simply fill that plastic.
Now I dug and installed in the fall, come spring that unused un filled plastic tank popped right out.
Some other guy strapped the tank onto some railroad ties and re buried.
Fortunately no lawyers got into the picture and we still talk amicably.

 

[Stimw]

Here in Florida you hear about people that will pump out a swimming pool to clean it and next thing you know it is above ground or partially!
You have to shock them them vacuum the trash on the bottom.
NEVER pump out the water.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Daily flow is based upon number of BR in the house: 300gpd for the first 2 br's, 150 gpd for any add'l br. Here in NM, the environment dept reviews plans / specs and will approve w/ any changes they deem necessary. Cost is $100.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Instead of caps at the end of the leach lines do 90ｰ and daylight them. I would also do clean out fittings at the beginning (tank side) of the lines and daylight those as well. Makes for easy inspection, maintenance and it's just nice to know where things are.

It's hard to tell but it looks like a simple T between the two lines. Remember the flow out of a septic tank is very minimal. With that thought the tee will have to be perfect or better to ensure even distribution between the two lines. Most would opt for a distribution box so it's easier to adjust as things move over time. You will want to mark that location too.

Based on the tank size, rock and pipe length I'm guessing a two maybe three bedroom place?

Looks good! Nice work. It's looking good out there! The panel etc also looks good! The dream is near.....

Already planned on all of the above except for the D-box. I initially drew the plan and submitted them with a distribution box, and the engineers at the environmental dept changed them and said to use a "T" instead. It sits on a concrete block which is dead nuts level. The D-box would have been easier. Your right about the size.... 3br system, but I'm building a quaint cozy 2 bar now that the kids are grown and gone.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Probably not in NM but around here you'd have to fill that tank so a big rain didn't float it out of the ground. Nice views, and a nice straight trench. Must not be many rocks!
Jim

Yes it was filled before backfilling. We will rarely get torrential downpours / storms that cause flash flooding and will float out a tank. The environment dept recommended to fill it and also the manufacturer. The property is on top of a hill so drainage is good. You reminded me of living back east in Bucks Co Pa when you mentioned the rocks, couldn't dig there 6 in without hitting shale. The whole trench is 5 to 5 1/2' deep and I didn't pull up 1 rock, not even a pebble bigger than a 1/4".

 

[cat fever]

I think a tee is better than a D box. Here is a picture of the failed lid on my D box. Long story short, we had back up in the basement. Now I do not have a D box.

 

[crazyal]

Unless you're building on sand around here there's no way you would get away with the leach field lines being that deep. They line them just under the surface so they drain well. 5 foot down would be hard pan on my property. You can do the work yourself still here but you do have to get a licensed engineer to design it as well as a perk test.