Injector Pump Woodruff Key position

[dpauly]

Hello. Would anyone know if the slot for the Woodruff Key on a given Injector Pump (in my case a 2011 Branson 3120R A1500; made by Doowan) is always in the same "clock position" on the shaft so that when a new or rebuilt pump is installed the internal timing of the pump is correct as long as the drive gear position remains unchanged? Thanks.

 

[thepumpguysc]

It’s completely dependent on if you timed it properly before removing the pump..
If u have a “lock timing” pump.. the new one should come back locked in time with #1 cyl..
If u question the pump OR your work, u can look inside the gear taper for the mark left behind by the removed pump. (Keyless)
If it’s a keyed pump and has lock timing, it still should come back locked to #1 with an offset built in..

 

[dpauly]

Thepumpguyssc: Haven't yet removed old pump as I'm trying to learn/know every detail necessary to ensure the new one lines up & is in proper time. New pump has a key slot on shaft so assumption is as long as I can remove nut from I.P. gear while somehow ensuring the gear doesn't move, then get the new pump installed - all AFTER I get the #1 Cyl at TDC (the real booger in this evolution it seems since there are no timing pins on this pump/engine) all should be well. Thanks for your input.

 

[thepumpguysc]

I looked up the parts diagram.. it says the drive
IS KEYED.. if that’s the case, mark the pump mounting flange to the block.. dot on the pump and one corresponding on the block..
Hell, it might be marked from the factory already.??
Remove the nut and washer from the drive shaft and with a mirror, look into the gear slot.. if it’s keyed you’ll see it..
Idk if the gear will move or not, so smart money says to degrease the gear and use a marker to mark the gear to the one next to it..
Good luck..
Oh, yer probably gonna need a puller to pop off the drive gear..
Note: put the nut back the drive shaft flush before tightening down puller..

 

[dpauly]

Thanks for the input, thepumpguysc. Gave a lot of thought to pulling the head and the gear case cover (and find a Degree Wheel. . . ) as I'm sure that is the only way to positively know exact TDC on this indirect injection engine but have talked myself out of it after discovering I can see the timing mark on the I.P. gear and the one on the adjacent Idler by opening the inspection cover & peering from off to the side with a strong flashlight. Now, if I can only remove the nut & gear from the I.P. as you detailed (and I get the new pump's key slot in the exact "clock" position as the old) without letting anything move I should be in business. Thanks again.

 

[thepumpguysc]

If u don’t have an air impact gun, DONT PULL ON YOUR RATCHET.. BUMP IT WITH THE PALM OF YOUR HAND..
Works every time..
Like I said earlier, get the nut and washer off and look to see if it’s keyed..

Btw.. are your marks just a dot.?? On the original pumps I’ve worked on, the timing marks were numbers.
Good luck

 

[dpauly]

Hey thepumpguysc. Got the engine timed to TDC and Inj. Pump gear nut and lock washer off ok without dropping either into the 'abyss'. Used a battery powered impact. Got the new pump in, the gear, washer and nut installed, and timing mark on gear is aligned with that on the adjacent Idler. Now I just need to verify torque number on gear nut. Have read up on and understand timing process on this VE type pump, though still trying to verify what kind of numbers I can expect to see on the Dial Indicator once I verify the plunger in the pump has reached the extent of its outward travel. (Maybe it's relative and varies according to the pump and as long as I can get the Dial Indicator pointer to return to "0" when the timing mark on the crank pulley shows TDC I'll be ok.) Btw, in answer to your questions: the shaft on the pump/gear is keyed. There is a ' - ' mark on the Pump Gear tooth and the letter 'B' on the Idler gear tooth it intersects. Thanks for your input & well wishes.