Importing and modifying a new mini excavator from China

[MattB4]

Any of you folks that have the mini 1-ton running a hydraulic hammer? I see that is an available attachment but I wonder if there is sufficient hydraulic flow to make it work.

 

[diabeticpilot]

None of the units I have had here had the hydraulic tensioner, if that is what you have. Just spring tensioner, even if the label refers to oil.

I can't really see what you have. Maybe you can clean it really well inside the hole and see what is in there. Also, do the AgroTk folks have anything to say about the tensioner?

The normal way hyd tensioners work is you have to unscrew the fitting to let grease out, then they have a zerk for re-greasing.

I cleaned it off and yes - the L12 model has a hydraulic tensioner. I didn't have the right kind of deep socket set so I ordered a set on Amazon. I am not sure of the size but it is bigger than 18mm. There is a zerk fitting on it. Once I get the right socket i'll just loosen that to get the track back on and then use the zerk to re-grease and tighten.

 

[dfkrug]

Any of you folks that have the mini 1-ton running a hydraulic hammer? I see that is an available attachment but I wonder if there is sufficient hydraulic flow to make it work.

We tested the hydraulic hammer and the auger both on the black Oking 1-ton units. Both worked fine, so those attachments get a thumbs up. The hammer even comes with a full nitrogen bottle.

BUT. I would not use an hydraulic breaker on a 1-ton unit unless you are prepared for the damage it will do to the excavator. These minis only have 25mm pins where the forces are greatest: at the bucket pin. I have seen what a hammer does to skidsteers around here, which often run hammers.

 

[jaylast]

Wow, that's an upgrade to have hydraulic track tension. Haven't check but this diggit looks to just have mechanical like most others. Rippa is the only other I've seen in this size to have hydro. (Their ndi322 also has the blade function lever to right of right joystick just like kubota etc., which is a function I really want)

I've run my diggit for a couple hours over past 2 days and running well. First thing I did was take apart to inspect everything. Unexpectedly it does not have a cooler I've seen pictured in others, but it does have an in line cartridge style hydro filter. (gold cylinder in pic beside house motor.)

Controls definitely a little touchy . . . and not quite as powerful (bulldozer, lift and dig) as I hoped. Boom seems more powerful than curl which I didn't expect.
I would love to find a book or video(s) to learn more about the intricacies of how these are designed/intended to operate in order to know what can be tweaked other than main manifold pressure adjustment.
Specifics like pressure tanks to buffer flow/jerkiness, open or closed center with bypasses, and of course any mechanical type adjustments to valve travel limits or flow rate would be nice to know about- if any of this is even possible.

Very likely a 1 ton without any counterweights. Would like to pour some concrete or lead formed around interior of bottom body panel in back and sides. Travel function power likely to suffer though - not sure if that power is being held back by pump, valving, or motor reduction. It's already not super powerful when dozing or turning. Guessing the pump is limiting factor. 2 speed motors could maybe help though with a lower (and higher) reductions.

The single solenoid appears to be for the hydro safety shutoff (red lever).

Working on trying to get more pilot control blocks to mount top (4 visible in pics on top, for boom, house, bucket, arm) and bottom of main stack for dozer blade and aux functions, along with matching hoses and 2 direction levers. Have not found those blocks yet, but generic directional valve controls are easily found. I don't love the mechanical foot controls but have customized the pedals for better leverage and more precision for now.

Welded some foot pegs to travel levers to help more complex manuevers requiring boom/bucket function at same time to stay upright. Tweaked throttle and choke, put rebar thru blade foot lever simulating wider pedal. Will also be adding a fan and tweaking body panels for best fit and ease of access.

 

[ArlyA]

I work with and on tracked machines with hydrolic track tensioner. The grease type ones went out of favor long ago in the snow world, maybe in 80s. Seems they were called grease tensioners.

 

[dfkrug]

I work with and on tracked machines with hydrolic track tensioner. The grease type ones went out of favor long ago in the snow world, maybe in 80s. Seems they were called grease tensioners.

Why do you suppose that grease tensioners went out of favor on snowmobiles?

Note that the spring tensioners on the mini-Xs do work, but it is still easy to pop a track off to the inside or outside. When it happens, you learn to avoid or minimize getting into situations that cause it: driving over and turning on lumpy rocks. I am very careful about turns.

 

[dfkrug]

Unexpectedly it does not have a cooler I've seen pictured in others, but it does have an in line cartridge style hydro filter. (gold cylinder in pic beside house motor.)

Yes, that sure looks like a hydraulic return filter. It says 15 micron right on the label. Nice. I did not see such a thing in the Diggit EM15 I posted about above. Now you need to find some spare filters, and confirm the connections.

Some of these minis have hyd oil coolers, but most still do not. Since the problem of excessive heat is obvious to customers, it has been a frequent request I am sure.

 

[ArlyA]

Why do you suppose that grease tensioners went out of favor on snowmobiles?

Note that the spring tensioners on the mini-Xs do work, but it is still easy to pop a track off to the inside or outside. When it happens, you learn to avoid or minimize getting into situations that cause it: driving over and turning on lumpy rocks. I am very careful about turns.

I'm not sure, but the hydraulic ones on Bullys sure work nice. Maybe people would over pressure grease ones, or they readily leaked out and depressured?? On Bully's they have a pressure set and to unload them you fip a switch on the dash and you can have them de-tracked in minutes. This is the PB system and the arm in the front holds the front end axle

 

[dfkrug]

Travel function power likely to suffer though - not sure if that power is being held back by pump, valving, or motor reduction. It's already not super powerful when dozing or turning. Guessing the pump is limiting factor. 2 speed motors could maybe help though with a lower (and higher) reductions.

The Diggit may have an internal weight like my XN08 has. Newer machines (most of them now) use an external casting that increased counterweight from 75 to 100#, according to my measurements. The EM15 has a slightly longer rear of the house, which itself is a counterweight.

I dunno why you say the pump is a limiting factor. If the relief valve is properly set, you will be able to go up a 40% slope if the surface has good traction. The only time my wheel motors stall is when I get a small rock under the track. I can pretty much guarantee that your RV setting is low.

The small open-center valve blocks for the boom, dipper, swing, and bucket are under each arm rest next to the seat.

One more thing about the EM15: the one I opened up had no hour meter. Does yours? If so, where is it mounted?

 

[MattB4]

Not sure if it is the cold (was below freezing overnight but it is now at about 40F) but this morning I can not get my B&S engine to start. Checked the spark and it sparks, can see fuel fouling the plug when I pulled it (did not realize it is a crappy Torch brand will replace as soon as I can get a NGK for it) after several attempts to start it does not want to fire off. Does not matter if choke is on or off, throttle open or on low setting.

Since I see spark it can not be a oil sensor or some other ignition issue and because I see and smell gas it likely is not a fuel issue.

Anybody got any ideas other than having it get warm outdoors?