Importing and modifying a new mini excavator from China

[MattB4]

Yikes. So I have something to look forward to!! I am already backing down hills because I need an extension tube in my hyd tank so I dont cavitate. I emailed AGT a week ago. No reply other than they sent me a pic of a ripper I really like. What do you thinkView attachment 839061 of this agt ripper?

If I am not mistaken that ripper is for a much much larger excavator. AGT imports lots of things for farm and heavy equipment. The ripper that fits the pins for the 1-ton is this one. I see it is listed for $250 at FREE SHIPPING 2 Ton New Mini Excavator, EPA certified USA KUBOTA Diesel Engine | eBay

 

[oldrustysteel]

Thanks Matt.

 

[dfkrug]

It may be possible to add another valve to the stack. I think there are 8 valves on the stack now. if you remove the 8
-12mm bolts on the access panel, you can see your stack and how much room is available.

Adding a section is doable, if you can buy one. All the sections on my valve and the spare I bought seem to be identical. I do not know of different makers of this 8-spool stack valve. The cost of my spare was $350, and I have not needed it. If adding a section, 3 new threaded rods will be needed for the additional thickness.

As for needing another spool, I would consider diverting flow from an unneeded function (bkt or blade?) first.

 

[Fredrik]

Glad to see you have not become discouraged.

Nope ! Infact I speced out a 2-ton to 2.5-ton machine and companies are bidding on it. Importing myself of course. Not importing"myself", just a new machine. Oh never mind.

 

[jaylast]

Here's the stack type leking uses for kv13. With pilot assembly/block screwed on top/ bottom. Fob $60/section.

Vibratory attachment is sounding pretty good after the 23tons of 2a modified gravel I just spread lol, but it packs in just driving on it. I'd need one so rarely, would consider renting, or just buyin a HF model

 

[vancouver]

The cheapest new Chinese excavator in Vancouver,bc is down to $7k cdn and no tax. Used to be $10k. Craigslist flooded with different sellers.

 

[Fredrik]

I also usually do it backwards since the valves stop the movement very abruptly, which can tip you over onto a downhill bucket.

It happens. I keep my bucket low to the ground when traveling either forward or backward down hills. This technique has saved me a few times. When traveling across a slope more than 10 degrees I put out stretched arm as low up hill as possible. Where I live there is no such thing as a flat spot. Pucker factor is always high , hence ordering a custom ULTRA wide machine. Well....trying to order.

 

[diabeticpilot]

Did you follow the guidelines for greasing the house bearing and gear? You need to allow at least 10 pumps just to fill the extension hose. Then 5 pumps for both grease zerks. then rotate cab 90* and repeat. until you have gone full circle.I think if done correctly, the initial greasing on the house bearing and gear will use most of a full tube of grease. If you look thru the battery compartment door you can see the red grease tubes and get an idea of where the grease is going. Hope this helps. I think house bearing problems would be the last thing I would ever want..

I have not done anything to the slewing (house) bearing. I see the two zerk fittings. There is a bunch of grease coming out of the protector so I assumed it had been greased. The manual had some broken directions for how to do it. All I could see was that you idle the machine for 5 minutes and then do grease in 90 degree increments.

I will look through the battery compartment and visually check the grease tubes and see what is going on. I basically just keep pumping into both zerks until I can see grease coming out from behind the protector? 5 pumps top and bottom? I am not sure what you mean by "extension hose".

 

[diabeticpilot]

These machines that don't have cross-port RVs do not "freewheel" downhill unless the control levers are actuated in the downhill direction. That is the problem. On the steepest slopes (I have had them on 40% slopes) they will creep downhill very slowly with the levers in the OFF position with blade and boom up. That is not the problem. The danger is when you drive downhill.

I find it impossible to feather the drive controls when going downhill on slopes greater than 7-8%. So, moving downhill is a somewhat jerky experience of on-off-on, and repeat. I also usually do it backwards since the valves stop the movement very abruptly, which can tip you over onto a downhill bucket.

So you keep the boom and bucket downhill? That way the jerky motion has a bucket to fall onto? I was keeping everything uphill and going backwards. But the jerky motion does cause some serious pucker factor.

 

[oldrustysteel]

I have not done anything to the slewing (house) bearing. I see the two zerk fittings. There is a bunch of grease coming out of the protector so I assumed it had been greased. The manual had some broken directions for how to do it. All I could see was that you idle the machine for 5 minutes and then do grease in 90 degree increments.

I will look through the battery compartment and visually check the grease tubes and see what is going on. I basically just keep pumping into both zerks until I can see grease coming out from behind the protector? 5 pumps top and bottom? I am not sure what you mean by "extension hose".

The extension hose or tube connects at the grease fitting and travels back to the house bearing and the swing motor gear. They are probably red and can be seen under the battery access door. 5 pumps minimum per fitting. All of my grease fittings were completely dry when I got my L12. Had .2 hours when I got it.