Impact and Torque Wrenches

[glennmac]

I am extremely tool-challenged and would appreciate a brief explanation of these kinds of wrenches, which I know nothing about.

My primary interest is having wrench of sufficient power to quickly get the blades off my 72" belly mower and brush cutter, and the wheel bolts off my tractor and cars. The wrench would get little other use.

Are torque wrenches the same as impact wrenches? Are all impact wrenches pneumatic or are some electric? If pneumatic, do I have to get a separate air compressor or is that part of the tool?

Any recommendations on an inexpensive wrench that would do the limited jobs listed above. I would be taking the mower blades off with the tractor up on car ramps, so there is not much room to maneuver a large tool or get much leverage.

Thanks.

 

[RobS]

Glenn, Bird is the one to provide the details but I can offer some help...

Impact wrenches are used to loosen and tighten nuts/bolts as well as spin them up and down the threads. You see them in the NASCAR pits for tire changes. They come in electric and, more commonly, air powered. With air, you will need a seperate compressor. Impact wrenches work with some sort of internal hammer arrangement which can provide a lot of "oomph".

A torque wrench is used to put the final torque on a fastener to some known value. There are various types but all are hand operated. Kind of like a ratchet with a readout dial for the torque. Various drive sizes and torque capacities available.

One other tool to be aware of is an air ratchet. Works like a regular ratchet except has an air motor to power the fastener down the threads. Then you put the final tightening on using the tool like a ratchet (hand force).

As I mentioned, I think Bird will have a lot more wisdom on this subject /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Bird]

Glennmac, RobS has given good answers. A torque wrench is a manual tool for measuring a precise amount of tightness or tension when putting nuts and/or bolts on. They come in different sizes and ranges and are pretty expensive. They are actually used relatively infrequently, even by most mechanics, but can be important when it's necessary to get something tight enough but not too tight.

All the impact wrenches with which I'm familiar are either air or electric powered. Nothing wrong with electric impact wrenches (I've owned the biggest ones made or sold by Black & Decker and by Craftsman in the past), except for the fact that I don't know of any that are as strong as the air wrenches. The strongest electric ones I've known of were a maximum of 250 ft./lbs. (and there may well be some more powerful ones that I've never seen), while 250 ft./lbs. is considered pretty weak in half inch drive air impacts. My personal preference (and what I'm using) is an Ingersoll Rand IR231 at about 425 ft./lbs. (IR244 is almost identical with an air motor that's about an eighth of an inch longer and goes to 500 ft./lbs), but an awful lot of diesel mechanics like the IR2131, light weight high speed composite body that will go up to 450 forward and 600 in reverse (keeps them from having to go to those heavy awkward 3/4" drive models). And the only trouble with the air powered ones is that you must have a separate air compressor that will maintain 90 psi and put out a volume of at least 4 to 5 cfm (cubic feet per minute), preferably more.

But everyone has an air compressor, don't they?/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif I don't know how anyone can do without one. Besides my 1/2" impact, 3/8" impact, 3/8" ratchet, air drill, air powered grease gun, paint spray rig, sand blaster, Cyclone Blaster, 3 blow guns, liquid siphon gun, hydro blast pressure washer, air powered reciprocating saw, air hammer (chisel), I even have to air up a tire occasionally./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

And you can go to Northern Tool's web site http://www.northerntool.com and see a lot of different wrenches of both types, and Ingersoll Rand http://www.irtools.com, and Chicago Pneumatic (I've forgotten their URL right now) to see a wide variety of them.

Bird

 

[RPM]

Bird,

I seem to remember you repair air compressors? What's a good recommendation for a reasonable one? I have one on my short list but am still having sticker-shock from the Ingersoll-Rand models.

Patrick

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Patrick,

Lots of value for the dollar, especially closeouts...

 

[glennmac]

Well, when you're ignorant one question leads to many more.

What is the reference to 1/2" and 3/8" for the wrenches? How do I know what I need.

So an air wrench needs a compressor. What's powering that compressor John is showing--gas engine?

Pressure washer. That interests me. What do I add to an air compressor to create a pressure washer?

 

[RobertN]

John, is this oil-less? I discussed with Bird, unfortunately after, I had bought a 6hp/60gal Devilbiss oil-less.

While they(oil-less) are less expensive, they are LOUD, and can not be run for long periods of time. They have these little teflon ringed pistons which can not sustain heat, like when you're doing a lot of sanding.

Mine has worked well, but it is loud. My wife has done some intense sanding with it, and I imagine wore the pistons. They are simple to replace.

If I ever replace this one, it will be with the seperate motor and cast iron pump style. Longer lasting, and quieter. They are more expensive though.

RobertN in Shingle Springs Calif

 

[jinman]

The compressor is electric and very noisy; so are impact wrenches. Get you some hearing protection...

The 1/2" and 3/8" (and also 3/4" and 1") refers to the square part from the wrench or drive motor which fits into the socket when it is mounted on the tool. When working with air compressors and hoses and fittings, you also have to worry about various sizes of adapters and hoses. Typical adapters are the 1/4" inside diameter type, but the 3/8" are better because they allow more airflow. Sorry Glenn. Nothing is as easy as it seems./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif Maybe you need to go "hang out" some day at the local garage for some OJT. /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif

JimI

 

[mikim]

My wife and I will be married 10 years in Nov and I told her I wanted to get her a new ring because we couldn't afford much back 10 years ago when we combined households and 5 kids (my 3 and her 2). She said that would be fine but what she'd really like is a pressure washer and a portable generator. I knew there was a reason I married this woman /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif ... anyway ... does that hydro blaster you mention put out more than 1500 psi? We're looking at spending about $450 or more unless I can find something that will put out ~2000 psi for less.
mike

 

[RobS]

Don't forget 1/4" drive Jim /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

And to further complicate matters, compressors can be gas driven but most are electric, 110V. Bigger ones are 220V and up. Conventional piston type, oiless (now I know why my neighbors is so noisey) and rotary screw (industrial strength). You've got your regulators, filters, water seperators, tank drains and a whole host of other considerations. Pretty soon it's like buying a tractor all over again, eh Glenn /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Seriously, for just rotating tires etc. you can get by with about anything Sears, Lowes, Menards etc. sells. Stay away from the real small ones geared towards nail gun users. Do invest in a decent impact wrench though if you plan on doing tractor work. The cheapies don't have the guts of a good one, no matter what the box may say.

Jim's idea for OJT is a good one. You could also offer a case of beer to a friend who has the equipment in exchange for him walking you through an oil change and tire rotation on your car. In fact, I'd do that for you for a case of beer /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[glennmac]

Well, at least I have the hearing protectors ... which will also help me from hearing the laughs when I humbly observe that automobile oil changes are why god invented the Jiffy Lube franchise.

 

[RobS]

LOL/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

... then it only stands to reason that tractor maintenance is why god invented Kubota dealers (or Deere, NH dealers to be PC) /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Bird]

Glennmac & Mikim, I called it a hydro blaster by mistake; it's actually an Amflo Model 2000-G Hydro Air Gun (their paperwork also refers to it as "your hydro-air washer"). You hook your water hose (hot or cold) to one connection and your air hose to the other connection; water runs through it continuously and when you pull the trigger, the air pressure gives it a boost. Not quite as good as a real pressure washer, but actually works amazingly well. Don't know whether they have a web site, but it's from Amflo Products, 1111 East McFadden Avenue, Santa Ana, CA 92705.

The 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4", 1" (and some even bigger) drives for impact wrenches and ratchets has already been explained by someone else.



Bird

 

[Bird]

Yep, John, made by DeVilbiss and a nice little compressor for most folks for occasional home use if you never let it run for more than 10 minutes with plenty of cooling off time between runs. I had one and liked it; only had to completely rebuild it every 6 to 8 months/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif. The first time was still in warranty so Sears gave me the parts; I did the job myself since their service man was on vacation. Noisy? Yes, and as it begins to get more noisy, it's telling you that it's about time for new parts. The good part is that you can completely rebuild it in less than an hour. That big black cover serves two purposes: (1) it keeps you from seeing what a tiny rinky dink compressor is under there, and (2) it slows down the parts it throws when it blows up - that was rather noisy, too, when it did that, even busted that cowling, but it contained everything./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif So I rebuilt it again, sold it, and bought a real compressor. Mine gets used far too much for me to use an oiless one.

Bird

 

[glennmac]

Rob, that was my attitude exactly!

That is, until I realized the divine dealer charged $75 each way (5 measly miles) for pick up and delivery, plus a whole bunch of incomprehensible hourly charges for what seems to be the simplest tasks.

Well, I'm not signing up to work on my car or complicated domestic rocket science like fixing our leaky faucets, but I think I can do some of this tractor stuff.

So, I've done some research at Northern Tool, etc. To unscrew my crummy $36 mower blades, I can get an impact wrench and compressor for a mere $1000. What a deal! Then I can wait for a year for Northern Tool to deliver them.

Maybe this dealer stuff aint so bad. No, I know, I'll save the delivery charge by getting my own trailer. Then I'll need ramps and chains and load binders ..... Agh. Does it ever end?!

 

[Bird]

Patrick, I've actually only worked on just a few air compressors; my little sideline business is repairing/rebuilding automotive air tools; ratchets, impact wrenches, drills, sanders, saws, cut-off tools, shears, air hammers, etc.

As for which air compressor to buy; that's almost like asking which tractor to buy./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif Have to know what you intend to run off it, how much it'll be used, etc. Like I just responded to John Miller, those DeVilbiss oiless are cheap and work well, but for myself it's got to be a cast iron two cylinder compressor with oil in the crankcase. The horsepower ratings on electric compressors, for all practical purposes, mean nothing. You need to see what the specs are for pressure (most go about 120 psi, but the expensive ones go 175 and up), and what volume it moves (cfm). Almost all air tools are rated for a maximum of 90 psi, but a lot of garages run the 175; makes their air tools more powerful, and keeps me in business when they break them. When you look at the volume the compressor can handle, most impacts and ratchets don't use a lot, but sanders, paint guns, sandblasters, and air guns for cleaning things can require more than a lot of small compressors can keep up with. I used one like John pictured, doing some sandblasting; just had to stop every two or three minutes to let the compressor catch up.

As for brands, I'd even go so far as to say to buy a cheap one unless you intend to use it all day every day; things like DeVilbiss, Craftsman, Campbell Hausfeld; just get one of their cast iron compressors with oil in the crankcase. I'm using a 220 volt, cast iron V-twin, 60 gallon tank, Puma that was on sale for $600 about 3 years ago (plus the water separator and a few other accessories).

Bird

 

[DFB]

Glenmac,

Gotta have the impact sockets too. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

DFB

 

[RPM]

Bird,

Thanks for the advice. Looks like I can get a Campbell Hausfeld 'Extreme Duty' from Sears for $3-400.

Knowing my work pattern I would probably not use it on a daily basis - but several times a year would have some sandblasting project to use it for. There are also the other advantages of having it there to inflate tires, the general maintenance use and so on. I certainly can't justify one of the bigger units - but it would drive me crazy to have to keep waiting for the compressor to catch up.

It's funny but when I was working in engineering I never even paid attention to the compressors we had on the shop floor (other than knowing they were made by Ingersoll Rand). Just took it for granted that we had compressed air available! Your advice is much appreciated.

Patrick

 

[JOR_EL]

Hi Bird, (anybody else, too, ...jump right in /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

<font color=blue>As for brands, I'd even go so far as to say to buy a cheap one unless you intend to use it all day every day; things like DeVilbiss, Craftsman, Campbell Hausfeld; just get one of their cast iron compressors with oil in the crankcase. I'm using a 220 volt, cast iron V-twin, 60 gallon tank, Puma that was on sale for $600 about 3 years ago (plus the water separator and a few other accessories).</font color=blue>

I also will be getting a new compressor. I only have a small roof-nailer size now.

I'd like to have the capacity (cu. ft. ) and pressure to do serious work, but will use it relatively infrequently, ...most DEFINITELY NOT "all day, every day".

I'm willing to pay what it takes to get into this capability class, but would be wasting my money to get a 24/7 "pro" model.

Any specific model/cap.brand reccomendations for me (other than what you've already posted? Can my needs be met with a 110 volt model?

Thanks,

Larry

 

[Bird]

Patrick, I'm just looking at my brand new Craftsman "Power and Hand Tools" catalog and I don't find that good a deal. But I also notice that my new Tractor Supply Co. catalog has the same compressors at $30 to $100 less than Sears.

One thing I didn't mention before is parts availability for the Campbell Hausfeld. I don't know how easy it would be if you should ever need parts. I know it's difficult to obtain parts, and prices are high, for their air tools. If one breaks, it usually is not worth fixing. That situation may, or may not, apply to the compressors. I've only owned one Campbell Hausfeld compressor and never needed any parts for it. Another compressor that I know little about, but owned one and liked it, was a Sanborn from Sam's Club. And much as I like Ingersoll Rand products, their compressor prices, even in Northern Tool's catalog, are scary.

Bird