iMatch with Frontier Box Blade

[Noodlez914]

Thanks for the advice on getting those bolts off. But as far as the receiver. I realize i need to get the bushings kit. Thats not my concern. Seems as though the hook is too low for it. Hook bangs right into the square tubing when bottom pins are already sitting on the imatch bottom pin grabs. Looks like and form of quick hitch wasn't in mind by the person who made this. Bought it from ebay.

 

[RoyJackson]

I realize i need to get the bushings kit. Thats not my concern. Seems as though the hook is too low for it. Hook bangs right into the square tubing when bottom pins are already sitting on the imatch bottom pin grabs. Looks like and form of quick hitch wasn't in mind by the person who made this. Bought it from ebay.

I bought mine off eBay too...can't recall the seller/manufacturer unfortunately. I will say my receiver was built to the correct specs for use with a QH. If the receiver cost less then $100, probably easiest to replace it. But that depends on your fabrication skills.

 

[Noodlez914]

For removing the bolts, a 6-point socket and impact wrench (which was probably used to tighten the nuts) would be best...if you have an impact wrench. If not, you need more leverage...so find a cheater bar about 3-4 feet long that will fit over your wrench (BTW, I strongly suggest you use a breaker bar to do the initial loosening). Once you have the mechanical advantage of the cheater bar, the nuts should break loose fairly easy.
Note I wrote 6 point socket! A 12 point socket slips too easily.

As far as your receiver hitch...you'll need the bushing kit, but that should work fine...mine does (it's on the Deere non-adjustable QH now, in fact) and my receiver isnt even a Deere brand.

Wouldn't mind investing in a impact wrench. My garage compressor max is 150 psi. Is that decent enough to run an impact wrench capable of getting these tractor attachment bolts on and off or would the impact wrench be way under powered?

 

[bcp]

Raise that hook two holes and it will work. Replace the hook bolts with pins to change it easier.

View attachment 273585

Bruce

 

[RoyJackson]

Wouldn't mind investing in a impact wrench. My garage compressor max is 150 psi. Is that decent enough to run an impact wrench capable of getting these tractor attachment bolts on and off or would the impact wrench be way under powered?

It will depend on the CFM output too. Air Tools, such as an impact wrench, need more volume then most smaller air compressors put out even if they produce enough pressure.

 

[BlacknTan]

Photo attached. Also attached is a photo of my now useless 3 point receiver hitch that I ordered before I owned imatch. If you look at the pic, see the hook don't stand a chance of working with it unless I have some chopping tools and a welder. View attachment 273577View attachment 273578

The implement shown is not useless with the I-Match (very nice, BTW) at all, but a slight modification is in order... If you have access to a milling machine, mill a 2 inch (minimum) wide slot in the upright box tubing below where the hook needs to go (just on the back side so the hook can slide in.). If no machine tools available, drill two holes side by side along what will be the bottom edge of the slot, and do your styraight cuts with a cutoff wheel. I'd do my best to leave the radius and a small land on the corners of the box tubing. A couple of hours work, and you have a useful implement again You can weld a thin piece of rectangular bar stock on top of the uprights to retain rigidity there...

BTW, don't be disheartened... I don't know if I've bought anything yet for the tractor, and this includes factory HD parts, that did not need some tweaking to fit. My HD top link bracket, from Kubota, needed three trips to a fully equipped shop before it fit properly. Fly cutting some of the flat surfaces, elongation holes just enough, adding shims here and there to get multiple bolting surfaces to match up just right .. you get the idea. If it was easy, anyone could do it! What fun is that???

Keep at it... It will all work out in the end, and you'll be happy that you stuck with it!

 

[Noodlez914]

Ok all, messed around with it a bit tonight. So far my conclusions are..... Is it really supposed to be double bolted? When I remove the bottom bolt and loosed the other it allows that hook to pivot in and out which then works flawless. When that hook it bolted in place and not able to move, my ballast box nor my box blade will drop fully down into that hood. The metal hits metal before it allows it. Should i just throw a single pin in there and allow that hook to pivot forward? I attached a photo to show you. If you go back in this thread a bit you will see the original pic I posted where the to bolts were in it.

 

[RoyJackson]

Ok all, messed around with it a bit tonight. So far my conclusions are..... Is it really supposed to be double bolted? When I remove the bottom bolt and loosed the other it allows that hook to pivot in and out which then works flawless. When that hook it bolted in place and not able to move, my ballast box nor my box blade will drop fully down into that hood. The metal hits metal before it allows it. Should i just throw a single pin in there and allow that hook to pivot forward? I attached a photo to show you. If you go back in this thread a bit you will see the original pic I posted where the to bolts were in it.
View attachment 273687

I'd say it's really supposed to be double bolted...however, if one bolt works, then I suggest you see how well it holds up.
I expect you'll see any problems when you're reversing...the top hook will probably pivot somewhat...possible the upper link on the implement could ride out of the hook, so be aware of that.
As far as pulling, I doubt you have any problems as long as you use a Grade 8 bolt. Do watch for eventual egging of the QH holes though, if you continually use one bolt.

 

[Noodlez914]

I'd say it's really supposed to be double bolted...however, if one bolt works, then I suggest you see how well it holds up.
I expect you'll see any problems when you're reversing...the top hook will probably pivot somewhat...possible the upper link on the implement could ride out of the hook, so be aware of that.
As far as pulling, I doubt you have any problems as long as you use a Grade 8 bolt. Do watch for eventual egging of the QH holes though, if you continually use one bolt.

Yah I'm really hoping someone else on the forums have this exact setup. Im boggled why this box blade isn't attaching the way it should. This is an attachment that was supposed to be imatch ready.

 

[Noodlez914]

Ok.....

I removed both bolts and put pins in (which eliminated the large head of the bolt). Ballast box and box blade both connect easily. It was actually the heads of the bolts that were making the top not be able to slide in between the tops of the attachments. John deere has got to be joking right?? They didn't test this on a Frontier Box Blade and a Frontier Ballast box when redesigning this? Without a doubt this large bolts cause an obstruction which doesnt allow you to fully back into the attachment and raise the hook.

 

[jenkinsph]

Yes it does look like a clearance issue, the prior style with the welded in place fixed hook didn't have this problem. Looking at the pictures and comparing to my Imatch the top hook should be set where it is almost even with the top of the horizontal cross tubing. When looking at your picture of the new IMatch it was preset for the correct height.

Bet this won't be the last thread on this clearance issue, somebody dropped the ball.

 

[BlacknTan]

Yes it does look like a clearance issue, the prior style with the welded in place fixed hook didn't have this problem. Looking at the pictures and comparing to my Imatch the top hook should be set where it is almost even with the top of the horizontal cross tubing. When looking at your picture of the new IMatch it was preset for the correct height.

Bet this won't be the last thread on this clearance issue, somebody dropped the ball.

I've got the Land Pride, similar design, but my top hook protrudes a bit further. I think JD could easily solve the problem with a redesigned top hook, but other than that, it looks like a well made, and well turned out QH. I like the new I_Match very much... if they just offered it in Orange.. LOL

QH15 Series Quick-Hitches | Land Pride

 

[Noodlez914]

I've got the Land Pride, similar design, but my top hook protrudes a bit further. I think JD could easily solve the problem with a redesigned top hook, but other than that, it looks like a well made, and well turned out QH. I like the new I_Match very much... if they just offered it in Orange.. LOL

QH15 Series Quick-Hitches | Land Pride

Been looking at a lot of the other hitches as well as the older imatch. All the hooks stick out further then the newest imatch version. There isn't a bit of space between the imatch top metal and my box blade top metal. The welds are literally rubbing together.

 

[firefighterjrm]

I just go mine istalled on my 3032e with Frontier RC 60, so yesterday was the first time I had a chance to mess with after bush hogging around the property which it needed bad I went ahead and put the bushing's on the other impliments. 1st I unhooked the R.C. and took the lower bushing off that and placed them on my box scrape which fit due the 2 1/2 inch gap where the lower pins go through (its a HD United 5ft box scrape for everything attachments) replaced the ones for the R.C. with the bushing kit then I put a set of bushing on my 5ft Bush Hog brand scrape blade. That being said I knew there would have to be some fab. work done to the box blade due to not enough space for the top hook to pass into the top link but the scrape well I thought no problem WRONG!!! the lower pins will lock on but top hook I will have to adjust and then set up the R.C. to fit and then make sure that box scape after having someone weld/fab it up is the same deminsions. We shall see so my question what size pins did you use to replace the bolts in the top link adjustment on the i-match sounds like a good idea.