I'm not a mechanic

[pearson1662]

I operated an old MF as a youngster that my father kept running quite well. He was an excellent mechanic. Now, I would like to buy an older tractor because I think I can find one that will meet my needs and of course they are much less expensive. I think older tractors are cool. Some examples that I have seen that I think would meet my perceived needs are MF 165, IH 284 and 300, etc. I need a brushog, a disc, maybe a FEL, maybe a plow, probably a blade of some type. I'm kinda set on getting one with a live PTO and coventional three point hitch. My concern is what happens if it needs repair that is beyond my ken? I understand that some tractors are notorious for being difficult to find parts for. The IH284 is one that seems to own this reputation. Is that accurate? Is this just a problem you accept or is there a recognized, reputable source for parts? Does Case stock parts for all their older IH/Farmall tractors? What about MF? New Holland for Ford, etc? Should I establish a relationship with a tractor mechanic before I consider a particular brand? Are salvaged parts reasonable/reliable or is it just a function of which unit I choose? I saw an ad for a IH284 that looks pristine yet my "internet research" indicates it may be difficult to find parts for it, should it be necessary. Are diesel engines more reliable than gasoline? Should that be a factor in my considerations?

Should I just buy a new Kubota?

 

[cowski]

new kubota

 

[mostly_gas]

You will need a tractor mechanic to help evaluate the older iron prior to buying a tractor. I don't know about IH tractors but other than the 20-30 year old Japanese compacts, Ford tractors have fairly good parts availability both new and used. Buying used parts is easier if you use a reputable salvage yard and I have seen many recommended here on TBN. Since the price of a new Kubota has not scared you off, you might consider a restored or rebuilt tractor.
While nothing on your list of potential uses preclude using the older iron, things like live hydraulics live PTO, over run clutches can help improve ease of use and or safety. Have fun with what ever you buy:thumbsup:

 

[bucktaker]

you know just because a tractor is older doesnt mean a dealership cant repair it.

the key would be to get one that has been taken realy good care of relatively low hours a mid 80's and up Ford or NEW Holland has great parts availability and dealer support

 

[DJ54]

From several different brands I own, I'd say anything from the early 50's up through, until they were made overseas, parts are plentiful, new or used. Buying something made in the 60's up, will get you something with power steering, independant pto, live hydraulics, as mentioned. Not necessary, but nice to have, especially once you get a little older.

As far as basic parts, I can still go into a Case/IH dealer and get parts for my 40's vintage IH's. If not in stock, they can be there is 2 days. With the inventory tax many states have imposed in past years, they don't stock parts like they used to.

As far as major components used from salvage yards, a simple online search will produce many results at times. If several yards have the same part on hand, I've done some dealing on parts, quoting other's prices. The bottom line comes to what it costs to ship.

 

[flusher]

Buy the Kubota if you're not mechanically inclined and want a reliable tractor that runs when you need it to run.

My first tractor was a new 2005 Kubota B7510HST with the LA302 FEL that cost $12,600.
I traded that one in for a new 2008 Mahindra 5525 with the ML250 FEL--cost about $19K.
In the meantime I've acquired 5 other old tractors (1964 MF135 diesel, 1951 Farmall Super A, 1948 Farmall Cub, 1951 Minneapolis Moline BF, 1945 Oliver 60 Row Crop) for restoration. I don't rely on these for everyday work around my place. They're a good way to learn tractor repair.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

In your situation, I'm gonna say the older Masseys might just be the best possible choice. Parts are extremely easy to get, from both OEM (AGCO/MF) and aftermarket sources. And the concept that Harry Ferguson INSISTED upon in tractors bearing his name was....UTTER SIMPLICITY....

Armed with a few basic tools, a service manual (one step beyond the basic owners manual) and a bit of mechanical aptitude, ALMOST anyone can turn wrenches on Fegusons and the first 2 generations of Massey Ferguson.

Combine that with the fact that help is just a mouse click away, and you have an easy to fix, low cost alternative to new, which will make for a great tractor.

 

[Soundguy]

I operated an old MF as a youngster that my father kept running quite well. He was an excellent mechanic. Now, I would like to buy an older tractor because I think I can find one that will meet my needs and of course they are much less expensive. I think older tractors are cool. Some examples that I have seen that I think would meet my perceived needs are MF 165, IH 284 and 300, etc. I need a brushog, a disc, ?

a mf 165 is a pretty good tractor..

 

[Willl]

Unless you plan to marry a mechanic, I'd buy new.

 

[Soundguy]

Unless you plan to marry a mechanic, I'd buy new.

far,withjunk , in the post previous to my last one, said it best.

a service manual, some basic tools and a lil aptitude is all thet is required to take care of most of these oldies.

it's something that can be self taught or done via 'cookbook' with a manual in hand..

 

[Ford tractor]

While old fords, Case's, Farmall's and Deere's are good machines, they are often lacking in what we today consider basic features. Live hydraulics, independent PTO, locking rear axle, etc. Around the late '60s those machines started to be much more commonly featured. But, they no longer have that "classic tractor" look.

Just thoughts to keep in mind.


Oh, the best way to become a mechanic is probably the way the OP's dad used. Buy a tractor and fix it when it breaks.

 

[timswi]

If you really want a vintage machine and want to learn, buy a good old one...If you want to use it every day and not have to have flexible mechanical aptitude..Buy it new and be done with it...Once that's paid off, find a classic tractor to putter around with.

As others have said, most of the oldies lack the modern stuff.

 

[Soundguy]

UH.. yeah right.. er.. NOOOOO

late 1952.. ford came out with live hyds with the NAA

1959, ford had independent pto ( with live pto available in mid late 1954 ), and a pseudo live pto via hand clutch available earlier than that as a retrofit for 8n and naa.

3 cyl machines in 65 brought in diffy lock on some models.. etc.

independent pto and live hyds and diffy lock were available on many flavors early on. right along with ford.. some before.. some after..

soundguy

While old fords, Case's, Farmall's and Deere's are good machines, they are often lacking in what we today consider basic features. Live hydraulics, independent PTO, locking rear axle, etc. Around the late '60s those machines started to be much more commonly featured. But, they no longer have that "classic tractor" look.

Just thoughts to keep in mind.


Oh, the best way to become a mechanic is probably the way the OP's dad used. Buy a tractor and fix it when it breaks.

 

[crazyal]

One of the best ways to become a mechanic is to buy something like an older tractor and then keep it running. You should be able to rent a tractor if you need one while yours is down. Of course a new Kubota will give you years of trouble free service and if keeping an old tractor running is not something you want to do or have the time for then it's the best option.

 

[super55]

Personally I would look around for a MF 165. If that's what you grew up with and your dad had there is some sentimental attachment to this tractor. The 165 is an excellent tractor fully capable of doing all the task you ask of it. Parts are readily available for the 165's. They were a very popular tractor and came in both diesel and gasoline models I believe.

Old tractors were built around one thing and that was to pull and pull well. I love my old oliver. The tractor seems to sing when it gets a load under it, the governor kicks in gives it a little extra umph and we she don't bog down or miss a bit under a heavy load. I've never had to take it into the shop for repairs but I'm willing to bet repairs would be cheaper than a newer tractor just because labor costs would be so much less.

I'm just curious what your main uses for this are going to be? Hobby farming, food plotting, estate maintenance?