Ideas to remove sheared bolt?

[Richard]

My steering cylinder on backhoe needs rebuilt. Couldn't get it off as a unit so had to pull cylinder off while leaving rod in place. Noticed a slight bend in rod so I'm on a mission to get rod off to straighten it out.

Rod is held by a pin and the pin has a lock bolt. The pin essentially has a "pocket" in it and a threaded rod screws through the front, snugs into the pocket and then there is a lock nut that tightens up on the front panel.

The nut is sheared off so there should be no or little tension holding the threaded rod. Too short to grab, I've tried to drill in it but bit keeps wondering off... (yes, I tried to center punch a divot and punch keeps glancing off as bolt isn't "flat".

I don't have a welder (but am now considering buying one)
I don't have an acetelyn (or whatever) torch for heat.... just a little MAP plumbers bottle with torch
Can't "take this" to someone who does as I have no steering
Need to drive into town to get a chisel to see if I can bang it around....
Been spraying it with Penetreat for couple weeks now.


Oh, and since this is something like 35 years old, I am going to suspect there is rust holding the bolt in....I don't know why this bolt would be any different than a couple other items that were rusted in their location.


Thoughts??

The last picture is the pin from the other end of the cylinder so this one should be similar.

 

[Richard]

I've wondered about taking my grinder, grinding a "slit" if it will allow me (I'm dubious) and if so, I have one of those impact screwdrivers that might work??

 

[shovelmike]

I sheared off a bolt in the steering head of my Harley a couple of years ago, easy outs failed, like you I couldn't stay on center either. I bought a set of left hand drill bits, and spun it out easily. I followed up by cleaning up the threads with a tap.
Regarding penetrating oil, a neighbor gave me a can of Aerokroil...it's amazing stuff...I ordered a big can of it. Having read about the efficacy of 50-50 acetone and atf mix, I have some of that mixed up and waiting for my next workshop SNAFU too.

 

[oosik]

I would cut a slot where the missing bolt head was. Heat the part with the broken bolt head with your mapp torch - then hit it hard with an impact driver. You could get lucky and the broken lock bolt just might screw back out.

 

[PILOON]

Ran into similar problem on my snow blower that I'm re building.
Having had previous experience from aviation I Cut off the bolt head flush.
Center punched to start drilling.
Started with small bit, like 1/8" and worked my way up to near hole size and grabbed closest drift punch and drove the remnants out.

One caution, hammering on a protruded end just results in mushrooming it into a tighter fit.

 

[WranglerX]

If you have access to welder drop a nut over the sheared bolt, do plug weld (nut to bolt) and try to remove while still warm (breaks rust bond)....

Dale

 

[LouNY]

That broken bolt is a good candidate for welding a nut on and turning out, but you don't have a welder.
You could have a rig welder come out and do it$$$$$.
It may also walk out with a chisel, a small sharp chisel using just a corner of it.

 

[shaeff]

I'd weld a nut on it, but that's not an option for you yet.

Make a nice flat spot with your grinder without removing too much material. Try the center punch once you've got it flat.

Or, pop a cut-off wheel on your grinder, nice thin one. Wear a full face shield, I've had those suckers scatter on me and it ain't pretty. Cut a slot in it as you mentioned. Heat it, try to drive it out.

 

[BufordBoone]

If you don't have a welder and want something inexpensive and easy to use, I got one of these: Titanium Easy-Flux 125 Amp Welder

It has turned out to be surprisingly easy to use and effective. I used it to repair my gate. Cost me less than getting a professional welder to do the job AND I've got the machine to do other projects.

One word of advice, cobble up something to practice on before tackling the job.

Good luck.

 

[Richard]

Ok, so again, I don't have a welder nor easy access. I've got a couple things that could use to be welded so am contemplating on buying one more for kicks & grins and "to have the right tool when needed" verses becoming a world class bridge builder.

So, my question there would be....

Stick or Mig? I think some do both but you can get those basic stick boxes for less.


Let me ask the question differently..... for THIS application, which would be best?

One thing I don't want to do is be that idiot that welds his nut to his backhoe.

I'm not sure that sounded exactly the way I meant it but I think you know what I mean.