I join you guys today with my new CK27 HST

[LandGuy]

Mousefield, with my CK35 HST, I've found that the rpm range of 1800 to 2000 works smoothly under a FEL load. Higher only if I'm really bulling something. Higher than 2000 for normal loader work seems excessive, just intuitively based on the engine sound and performance.

HST consumes only a small amount of power. Not sure how much, but not much.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Mousefield,

My dealer, when I asked him yesterday, said just enough RPM's to climb my driveway hill is all I need.

If the engine lugs, give it some juice...

He did say a DK40 would struggle up my driveway quite a bit more than mine.

David

 

[Mousefield]

Mousefield, with my CK35 HST, I've found that the rpm range of 1800 to 2000 works smoothly under a FEL load. Higher only if I'm really bulling something. Higher than 2000 for normal loader work seems excessive, just intuitively based on the engine sound and performance.HST consumes only a small amount of power. Not sure how much, but not much.

To me 1,800-2,000 RPM's just feels a bit slow, to me around 2,200 or a bit more feels "right" :cloud9: to me.

 

[grsthegreat]

I also go by sound and lugging. Always have. Ive never been set that it has to be running at 2,000 or 2,200 or 1,800. It depends on the terrain, the load and what your doing with it.

Hy HST works great if driving empty with the rpm at 1800. No issues. Under load i want more.

I also think you need to add the rimguard to the rear tires. Makes a world of difference in lifting capacity and quality of the ride. There is NO way short of a huge ballast box that i could haul full bucket loads of gravel with my DK45 if the tires were empty.

When backing up, you may also have to engage the differential lock lever if there is slippage. What you don't really want is for the 4x4 to be engaged and the rear tires off of the ground, as you can over stress the front wheel drive system.

 

[Dmace]

I was told by different dealers and Kioti mechanics that you should stick to 2000 rpms minimum when operating the HST as any less does not create enough hydraulic pressure and could cause harm to the HST unit over time. I run from 2000-2500 depending on work with the loader, 1800 rpms for backhoe work and 2800 rpms for snow blowing so the rear PTO is at full 540 rpms.

As far as your loader work, you certainly need some weight on the rear and use four wheel drive to help with traction. You shouldn't need full throttle and low gear for any hill. I could climb vertical walls in low gear at 2500 rpms so either your just losing traction or not getting full power from the HST. Also, after the 50 hour service, you'll notice the engine getting more powerful as it breaks in.

 

[Gittyup]

I have a ck25 gear. I've moved over 1000 tons with it. its a beast. But, I've got to believe it would have been unsafe to move what I moved without loaded tires. Loaded tires is a definite. Rear implements/weights are good and all, but they can also get in the way, and sometimes you need both.

I think your price is fine, especially in canada.

Also get a toothbar. Really makes a difference digging into a pile.

From what I understand, mfrs recommend running HST's at or near PTO rpms so that sufficient pressue is developed for the hydrostatic tranny. My john deere explicitly says to run at full throttle when traveling. Plus, your loader will perform so much faster and stronger above 2000 rpms.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

From what I understand, mfrs recommend running HST's at or near PTO rpms so that sufficient pressue is developed for the hydrostatic tranny. My john deere explicitly says to run at full throttle when traveling. Plus, your loader will perform so much faster and stronger above 2000 rpms.

If this were true for my Mahindra 3215HST, I would sell it. My manual says to operate at a minimum of 1500rpm and depending on what I am doing I usually run between 1800 and 2200 rpms. I'm not sure if I have ever even had the tractor to full throttle. It may well be just what I use the tractor for, but I cannot imagine having to run it as high of rpm as so many on the board say that they do.

As far as loading the tires, you have seen first hand how it works without. Now go fill the tires and you will think that you just bought some monster. Truly a day and night difference with how the tractor will perform and with filled tire you WILL be able to work the tractor to it's true capabilities. :thumbsup:

Just my :2cents:

 

[grsthegreat]

If this were true for my Mahindra 3215HST, I would sell it. My manual says to operate at a minimum of 1500rpm and depending on what I am doing I usually run between 1800 and 2200 rpms. I'm not sure if I have ever even had the tractor to full throttle. It may well be just what I use the tractor for, but I cannot imagine having to run it as high of rpm as so many on the board say that they do.

Just my :2cents:

i nevr run it that high, but maybe i should pull out my manual and see what it says.

UPDATE: Manual says....nothing. no info at all. Guess ill call my dealer and check, as i dont want to cause an issue.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

i nevr run it that high, but maybe i should pull out my manual and see what it says.

What gets me is that I am fairly certain that the recommended RPM for Kioti is not the same as what it is for the Bobcat. :confused2: Just like on the Bobcat forum there are guys saying that the warranty is void if you fill your tires, but I don't ever remember seeing that about Kioti. :confused3:

 

[grsthegreat]

What gets me is that I am fairly certain that the recommended RPM for Kioti is not the same as what it is for the Bobcat. :confused2: Just like on the Bobcat forum there are guys saying that the warranty is void if you fill your tires, but I don't ever remember seeing that about Kioti. :confused3:

WHAT... filled tires void warranty. thats insane.

I contacted Kioti direct and talked to rep. They recommend filling tires, and told me that tire chains on front are also allowed. I heard some brands void warranty if you run front chains.

 

[Gittyup]

Some dealers won't even sell a small CUT with a loader without loading the tires.

As for RPMs on HSTs, I'm sure it varies from maker to maker, and I'm sure there's no exact minimum RPM number. Just enough to keep the HST properly pressurized, I think is the message. My JD tranny clearly isn't happy with anything much less than full throttle.

 

[Oaktruss]

I have the rear tires filled on my CK35 and still keep a landscape box blade on the back as my standard rear weight if I do not have something else on the rear. Besides the added safety, a rear box blade is very handy. Mine is made by United and has been very reliable through years of hard use.

 

[LandGuy]

I have a ck25 gear. I've moved over 1000 tons with it. its a beast. But, I've got to believe it would have been unsafe to move what I moved without loaded tires. Loaded tires is a definite. Rear implements/weights are good and all, but they can also get in the way, and sometimes you need both.

I think your price is fine, especially in canada.

Also get a toothbar. Really makes a difference digging into a pile.

From what I understand, mfrs recommend running HST's at or near PTO rpms so that sufficient pressue is developed for the hydrostatic tranny. My john deere explicitly says to run at full throttle when traveling. Plus, your loader will perform so much faster and stronger above 2000 rpms.

It seems impossible to set rules about rpm's vis-a-vis HST etc. I've heard so many different and conflicting ideas on this. Terrain matters, speed, gear, FEL load weight, and lots of other variables. Ultimately each owner must develop a "relationship" with the engine and just feel out and hear out the ideal rpm, which of course constantly changes as you work. I don't like over-revving any more than I like lugging. I guess those are the only hard rules.

My dealer, when I bought my CK35 HST, said 1500 was the ideal engine speed when just driving on level ground. But I've come to feel that's too low and don't usually do anything on the tractor at 1500 except start it!

Who knows.

P.S. I was moving a huge pile of old, wet, heavy mulch yesterday and I goosed up the rpms to 2200 when scooping and that seemed just right. Maybe I've been babying the engine too much (of course, babying is lugging if it's overdone). Still just getting to know to my tractor---have only 50 hours on it, after all.

 

[Gittyup]

It seems impossible to set rules about rpm's vis-a-vis HST etc. I've heard so many different and conflicting ideas on this. Terrain matters, speed, gear, FEL load weight, and lots of other variables. Ultimately each owner must develop a "relationship" with the engine and just feel out and hear out the ideal rpm, which of course constantly changes as you work. I don't like over-revving any more than I like lugging. I guess those are the only hard rules.

My dealer, when I bought my CK35 HST, said 1500 was the ideal engine speed when just driving on level ground. But I've come to feel that's too low and don't usually do anything on the tractor at 1500 except start it!

Who knows.

P.S. I was moving a huge pile of old, wet, heavy mulch yesterday and I goosed up the rpms to 2200 when scooping and that seemed just right. Maybe I've been babying the engine too much (of course, babying is lugging if it's overdone). Still just getting to know to my tractor---have only 50 hours on it, after all.

On my CK25 gear, I set the hand throttel to about 1800 rpms for genear loader work. When loading or dumping, I then use the foot throttle to rev up the rpms for better loader performance. Typically this is to 2200 or higher. Loader is way too slow at lower rpms.

HSTs probably require a different approach.