You are right, I am not being sensitive to your feelings. I too would be upset raking acres of lawn because I didn't like to look of grass clumps after spending many hours each week mowing with my BX.
I wish time and money wasn't an issue for me.
I hate grass raking! How can i avoid it? do i need a new tractor?
- Thread starter Hulk 101
- Start date
I wish time and money wasn't an issue for me.
tacticalturnip
Elite Member
It's not my feelings, sweetheart, my lawn looks like a hayfield.
Maybe just try not projecting your displeasure regarding your own socioeconomic circumstances on others.
If you want to apologize for something, perhaps apologize for misusing the term 1st world? I understand that it's become a catch-all for modern, wealthy nations, but it literally refers to NATO countries in the context of the Cold War.
What do I know though.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Ditch the deflector and mow at 4".
Mowing shorter leaves the clippings more visible rather than fall back down in the grass thats already been cut.
Mowing shorter leaves the clippings more visible rather than fall back down in the grass thats already been cut.
tacticalturnip
Elite Member
Has anyone suggested a powered bagger?
ROUSTABOUT
Elite Member
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If you see me taking grass, a baler is right behind me. I ain't raking no yard.
Last edited:
deezler
Elite Member
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On the other hand, if you cut it looow enough once or twice, like say, 0.5", during a drought, you don't have to worry about mowing again for a nice long while. The subsequent dust storms can be tolerated.
amhicks21
Silver Member
I'm a little late to the conversation but here's a setup i use to mow some very fast growing commercial construction lots every 2-5 weeks depending on the time of year at 3.5". This is an old woods rm990 rear discharge mower that i found on craigslist for 1200 bucks. I'd just sell off that other stuff and pick up something like this. You'd probably break even on cost and be done cutting in half the time with the clippings evenly distributed behind you.
Creamer
Elite Member
This thread got me thinking about what are the factors that cause windrows of cut grass. Then I watch some of the new combines in action with a 50' header and the machine is blowing the chopped straw back out nearly as wide as the 50' header.
Certainly cut height makes a big difference - the taller you cut it the easier the grass falls back under the height it was cut at and out of sight. How much you cut off makes a large difference too but you should only cut off 1/3 of the height so if you are following that rule it isn't a problem.
Deflector up or down - I find the deflector down is important to keep the air flow from under the deck to carry the cuts out of the mower and spread it. You cannot have it too low though as it doesn't let the air flow carry it - it just deflects the cuts down. It should allow the grass to go straight out - not fly up or be forced down. Mine was cutting good today and then I hit a tree root with the front of the deflector shield and it pushed the leading edge back a little both into the air flow blocking the egress and off of the bolt that is put there to hole it at the right height and therefore deflecting everything down.
Sharpness of blades - sharper blades do more chopping and therefore the cuts some out shopped finer - they do not ball and stick together as much that way and therefore spread out better. Sharper blades also allow the RPMs to stay up which is key to creating the air flow.
Clean underdeck - with a clean deck the material does not drag and attains a higher exit velocity making it go farther.
I have wondered if blade to blade timing made a difference. It would seem that a good handoff from one blade to the other would matter but maybe at the speed they are spinning it just does not matter.
Dampness at mowing time. Very dry is not good here either as the cuts are too light to have enough mass to gain any momentum and therefore they do not have the energy to create a good stream. On the other hand too wet will stick and build-up and cause other issues.
What am I missing?
Certainly cut height makes a big difference - the taller you cut it the easier the grass falls back under the height it was cut at and out of sight. How much you cut off makes a large difference too but you should only cut off 1/3 of the height so if you are following that rule it isn't a problem.
Deflector up or down - I find the deflector down is important to keep the air flow from under the deck to carry the cuts out of the mower and spread it. You cannot have it too low though as it doesn't let the air flow carry it - it just deflects the cuts down. It should allow the grass to go straight out - not fly up or be forced down. Mine was cutting good today and then I hit a tree root with the front of the deflector shield and it pushed the leading edge back a little both into the air flow blocking the egress and off of the bolt that is put there to hole it at the right height and therefore deflecting everything down.
Sharpness of blades - sharper blades do more chopping and therefore the cuts some out shopped finer - they do not ball and stick together as much that way and therefore spread out better. Sharper blades also allow the RPMs to stay up which is key to creating the air flow.
Clean underdeck - with a clean deck the material does not drag and attains a higher exit velocity making it go farther.
I have wondered if blade to blade timing made a difference. It would seem that a good handoff from one blade to the other would matter but maybe at the speed they are spinning it just does not matter.
Dampness at mowing time. Very dry is not good here either as the cuts are too light to have enough mass to gain any momentum and therefore they do not have the energy to create a good stream. On the other hand too wet will stick and build-up and cause other issues.
What am I missing?