Hydro top link

[woodchipper]

I have installed a modified double acting cylinder for my Cat.II UTB tractor. It is plumbed to one of my two rear factory remotes. I can make it work from inside the tractor, or from the rear. Great for scraper blade, scarifier, rake, snowblower, etc. A real time and pain saver, over a manual top link.
No check valve, no flow restrictor.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Also, why wouldn't you add another single spool valve to control this, rather than using expensive SCV connections intended for higher flow?

My thinking has been to mount a dedicated valve to the fender or someplace I can reach from the seat and from the ground out back, and connect it off the SCV via a T or maybe out the PB port, and then splice in to the return line accordingly. This way I can hard line the pressure and return, and the only soft lines would be to the link itself.

The pilot operated check valves lock the cylinder unless there is pressure coming to move it. It prevents any drift. The downside is that a float function will not work.

If you permanently plumb it you may want to provide a place to stow it on-board if you need to use something like a post-hole digger that doesn't use the top link. Better yet give the hoses enough reach to use it with a downforce kit on the phd.

 

[tman1020]

Also, why wouldn't you add another single spool valve to control this, rather than using expensive SCV connections intended for higher flow? My thinking has been to mount a dedicated valve to the fender or someplace I can reach from the seat and from the ground out back, and connect it off the SCV via a T or maybe out the PB port, and then splice in to the return line accordingly. This way I can hard line the pressure and return, and the only soft lines would be to the link itself.

I did not purchase a check valve but it would have been to prevent any drift in cylinder. This will be the only hydraulic thing that I am running at this time. I may do what you suggest in the future if I find I need more hydraulics. I have never had a hydraulic top link or anything before so I am excited to get this one I think it will be a nice addition to what I've been doing

 

[xring100]

I did not purchase a check valve but it would have been to prevent any drift in cylinder. This will be the only hydraulic thing that I am running at this time. I may do what you suggest in the future if I find I need more hydraulics. I have never had a hydraulic top link or anything before so I am excited to get this one I think it will be a nice addition to what I've been doing

I wouldn't worry about it. have no check valve and i can operate with my log splitter for several hours and have very little drift less than 1/8" I've never had any problems with drift being a problem on my BH27 7ft brush hog or my gannon box scrapper.

 

[s219]

It takes days to see drift in my top link cylinder. Did not want to install a check since my valve is a double-action with float/detent, and a check will disable float from working.

 

[Jim Timber]

So float would actually be better if you were using a leveler/grader type implement that rides on the surface, right? Rather than floating the lower links and having it act in the vertical plane, you'd set your engagement height with the lowers and let the implement pivot about the bottom pins axis.

 

[s219]

So float would actually be better if you were using a leveler/grader type implement that rides on the surface, right? Rather than floating the lower links and having it act in the vertical plane, you'd set your engagement height with the lowers and let the implement pivot about the bottom pins axis.

I think it's mainly useful for a bush hog or rear mower when operating on uneven terrain. By letting the top link float you can suck up some of the undulations.

When I am grading with a box blade, I tend to drop the 3-pt all the way (essentially float) and then use the top link to dial in the angle of attack I want on the box blade cutting edge; aggressive for digging or feathered for smoothing. I have never seen a reason to float the top link with a box blade, as you'd lose any control over the angle of attack and that is the key factor with a box blade.

 

[Jim Timber]

I was thinking more along the lines of these:

King Kutter 84" Dual Edge Land Grader

 

[s219]

I was thinking more along the lines of these:

King Kutter 84" Dual Edge Land Grader

That would probably do better in full-on float, since it's long and the whole point is smoothing.

 

[tman1020]

Thanks for that I was wondering how much drift to expect

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I was thinking more along the lines of these:

King Kutter 84" Dual Edge Land Grader

I think what you will find is that when you put the top link in float mode when using a box blade or a LPGS as in your link, the implement will roll forward completely collapsing the hydraulic top link and the implement will be riding on the very front edge only.

Try it yourself, but pretty sure that it will not work as you are thinking that it might.

 

[Jim Timber]

I don't own either implements yet, and it might be a while before I can try it. It's possible I won't see my tractor at my property for another month.

For the geometry to work on the LPGS the bottom links need to be pretty close to grade or you'd be correct about it wanting to roll up.

 

[Imaybail]

DA cylinder with check valves.

Surplus Center

I'm Looking for one to fit a John Deere 4300. I have the third scv kit installed. Which cylinder do you recommend for that application?

 

[J_J]

The stroke and cyl length will depend on your tractor mount pin to implement pin distance.

 

[Imaybail]

With my box blade attached and in a level position, the length from pin to pin is 24".

 

[J_J]

This is a HYDRAULINK cyl

HYDRAULINK CATEGORY 1 TOPLINK

Retracted length 18 1/8 in

Extended length 26 1/8 in

2X8.25X1.18 CAT I HYD DA TOP LINK CYL

 

[MtnViewRanch]

With my box blade attached and in a level position, the length from pin to pin is 24".

You will find that something in the 19"-27" or 19 1/2"- 27 1/2" range will work the best for you.

 

[bumperm]

Thanks for that I was wondering how much drift to expect

Don't think there's a good way to answer that. It depends.

In my limited experience, two tractors with top and tilt, drift is most often the result of the spool valve, rather than the cylinder. My new (now one year old) B3350 tilt cylinder (welded ends and installed by myself) had something like 1/2 to 5/8" per hour with a heavy load - all in the spool valve as when the Quick Connects disconnected, no more drift down. In use, it drifted enough to be frustrating - set the bushhog level and then get to keep readjusting the &%^$ thing. Adding a pilot operated check valve solved the problem. Note that I did not order float function on the rear hydraulics so nothing lost and a lot gained. I was aware I could set tilt, then disconnect hydraulic hoses to lock it up, but that seemed a band aid fix.

The top cylinder I ordered from surplus sales came with DPOCV, so no drift there, locks solid. Since by bushhog has a chain lift to the rear, I've got all the float I need for rough terrain. 3-point float works for all else where float is needed.

 

[countrybumpkin]

What bore size cylinder are you guys using? I'm trying to decide if I should get a 2-1/2" or just got with a 2"

my new kioti NX5510n has cat 1 on the tractor side and cat 2 on the link ends, but im using a cat 1 quick hitch.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

What bore size cylinder are you guys using? I'm trying to decide if I should get a 2-1/2" or just got with a 2"

my new kioti NX5510n has cat 1 on the tractor side and cat 2 on the link ends, but im using a cat 1 quick hitch.

I typically recommend a 2 1/2" unit for your size tractor.