Toplink hydro top link

   / hydro top link #1  

dirt clod

Gold Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
332
Location
panama city and altha florida
Tractor
Kubota L3300, m5700, case 580se
Why is the hydro top links so much more than a regular tie rod style?:confused::confused:
Any ideas on adapting the cheaper ones to the ball ends?
 
   / hydro top link #2  
Good question. I just bought a 6' box blade and I can see why you need a hydraulic link. So why are they 150+ dollars when a conventional tierod cylinder is under $100?

I'm going to put a sleeve in the attachment end to run the 1" hole down to the 3/4" pin for the BB and then weld a top link swivel to the bare rod end of a TSC cylinder. That way I can get the lenght and stroke I need rather than settle for a part that's generally too long. Most H.top-links are 20" contracted.

Note that the $170+ H.top links have check valves to prevent leak down. BFD.
 
   / hydro top link #3  
Why is the hydro top links so much more than a regular tie rod style?:confused::confused:
Any ideas on adapting the cheaper ones to the ball ends?

First-You don't want a tie-rod cylinder for a HTL due to the limited room most machines have, a welded cylinder is best and it cost's more.
Second-I think they cost more because of the ball/swivel ends they have welded on, there is just not a huge market for cylinders with these ends-so they sell less units making the cost higher.

You can certainly get a regular welded cylinder and weld the proper ends on if you are qualified to do so...but most are not and happily pay the $$$ for the correct cylinder.
 
   / hydro top link
  • Thread Starter
#6  
   / hydro top link #7  
I went the Surplus Center route, but learned that the cast part on the tractor was too narrow for the SC ball swivel to fit.

I bought the one that fit, and couldn't be happier. Shown before hoses connected, and before painting black.
 

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   / hydro top link #8  
Beenthere:

Your tractor looks like my 4200 with the Surplus Center cylinder. Mine came painted dark gray, so I left it alone. I just wish the rod was 1" diameter instead as the cylinder housing is just a bit big and rubs on my PB & SCV quick-connects if I'm not careful.

Picasa Web Albums - Matt - Top-n-Tilt#
 
   / hydro top link #9  
Good question. I just bought a 6' box blade and I can see why you need a hydraulic link. So why are they 150+ dollars when a conventional tierod cylinder is under $100?

I'm going to put a sleeve in the attachment end to run the 1" hole down to the 3/4" pin for the BB and then weld a top link swivel to the bare rod end of a TSC cylinder. That way I can get the lenght and stroke I need rather than settle for a part that's generally too long. Most H.top-links are 20" contracted.

Note that the $170+ H.top links have check valves to prevent leak down. BFD.
My first hydraulic top link and tilt cylinders were tie rod cylinders that I welded new ends on.
I later upgraded to the cylinders with check valves. Well worth the extra price in my opinion. These cylinders work SO MUCH better than the tie rod cylinders I had.
No more leakdown and the top link holds its position much better when under load boxblading.
I'll take the welded cylinders with checkvalves hands down anyday.
 
   / hydro top link #10  
I just got a hyd toplink that I have plugged into one of my rear remotes. I don't know how i did without it. It is fantastic for what you were saying , attaching implements, grading. and I just picked up a crane/boom where it helps with that . My valves on my remotes are sensitive so I can feather it for fine adjustments easily. I got mine through Dalton. Cost a little more shipping to Can. but it was worth it. This one does not have a lock valve but my remote valve has a full off detent and so far no leakage past so the cylinder stays where you leave it

Hydraulic Top-Link - Category 1


Crane/Boom
3pt Crane/Boom-With Video - TractorByNet.com

Dave



 
 
 
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