HydrauLink Top Link

[NCMau]

I don't think this can be said enough times...
IMO...If you have a tractor that has hydraulics...and you do any type of earth work /grading...(tilling included)...a (true) hydraulic top link is the absolute best (equipment improving) investment an operator can make...a side link is second only because I am addressing a thread about top links...
...in a lot of conditions (IMO) a hydraulic side link is even more an improvement...when it comes to being able to use attachments and end up with professional looking results in a relative time frame...!

I am planning to install a hydraulic link, but I have Pats attachment which extends the lift arms couple of inches. So it looks I have to get the longer one cat 2. The only disadvantage that I can see with a HL is that you have to keep the tractor running to hookup the implement but I guess that is not a biggie.

 

[majorwager]

/pine is correct, the top link is a very useful tool. Mine is a swivel ball end cylinder from surplus center. No experience with side link cylinder, question whether it would be necessary to use two valves to simply raise or lower the rear linkage.? I believe my rear remotes bypass oil back to the tank, a condition I had blamed on the cylinder. Serveral threads identified this weakness in kubota compacts and factory remotes.

 

[Texasmark]

I may have answered this before so forgive the duplication if that's the case; didn't scroll through all the answers. I tried it once. Problem I had was that as the hydraulic fluid heated during usage, with it captive in the cylinder and lines to/from it, no place for the expansion to escape except to increase in pressure causing the ram to extend farther out (path of least resistance) causing your implement to dig deeper than originally set.

So, if you go that route, expect to baby sit it.

 

[Fallon]

I may have answered this before so forgive the duplication if that's the case; didn't scroll through all the answers. I tried it once. Problem I had was that as the hydraulic fluid heated during usage, with it captive in the cylinder and lines to/from it, no place for the expansion to escape except to increase in pressure causing the ram to extend farther out (path of least resistance) causing your implement to dig deeper than originally set.

So, if you go that route, expect to baby sit it.

Fluid only heats if you cycle warmer fluid into the cylinder. It's not going to magically heat up sitting in the cylinder. The thermal transfer through the hose isn't going to be that great.

Kubota 3rd function valves SUCK these days. After repairing 2 of the valves my sidelink leaks down in a an hour.

 

[tvman]

Fluid only heats if you cycle warmer fluid into the cylinder. It's not going to magically heat up sitting in the cylinder. The thermal transfer through the hose isn't going to be that great.

Kubota 3rd function valves SUCK these days. After repairing 2 of the valves my sidelink leaks down in a an hour.

Fallon, just to clarify. I assume you were referring to the rear remote valves.

I recently added a third rear remote valve to my 10yr. old L4330. Like yours, my TNT both leaked down pretty quick. I finally put check valves on them and they will hold position forever.

Does your L4060 have the same problem?

 

[Fallon]

Fallon, just to clarify. I assume you were referring to the rear remote valves.

I recently added a third rear remote valve to my 10yr. old L4330. Like yours, my TNT both leaked down pretty quick. I finally put check valves on them and they will hold position forever.

Does your L4060 have the same problem?

My sidelink extends completely in about an hour or less with a load on the 3pt. The toplink extends at about an inch an hour or so. And this is after the dealer worked on things. The toplink is a fair bit better, although not perfect, the sidelink got a lot worse. The loader will hold position for weeks on end if I leave it up. So it's only the rear remotest that have a leakdown problem. If I unplug the TnT hoses, there are no leakdown problems, so it's the valves, not the nice Fit-Rite cylinders. The TnT crap cylinders that the dealer originally sent (and replaced twice) didn't have any leakdown issues either, except for the couple that spewed fluid out externally. None of the ones from the dealer fit properly at all. I don't view check valves as a viable option. I ordered the machine with 2 float valves & like the functionality of float on my TnT. But check valves by there very nature prevent float.

I'm gonna send the machine back to the dealer again later this week as I'm traveling next week. Hopefully they get some decent valves in there.

You can see the clock sitting on there for reference on how fast it drops.

 

[Peter 315]

My sidelink extends completely in about an hour or less with a load on the 3pt. The toplink extends at about an inch an hour or so. And this is after the dealer worked on things. The toplink is a fair bit better, although not perfect, the sidelink got a lot worse. The loader will hold position for weeks on end if I leave it up. So it's only the rear remotest that have a leakdown problem. If I unplug the TnT hoses, there are no leakdown problems, so it's the valves, not the nice Fit-Rite cylinders. The TnT crap cylinders that the dealer originally sent (and replaced twice) didn't have any leakdown issues either, except for the couple that spewed fluid out externally. None of the ones from the dealer fit properly at all. I don't view check valves as a viable option. I ordered the machine with 2 float valves & like the functionality of float on my TnT. But check valves by there very nature prevent float.

I'm gonna send the machine back to the dealer again later this week as I'm traveling next week. Hopefully they get some decent valves in there.

You can see the clock sitting on there for reference on how fast it drops.

View attachment 544573View attachment 544574View attachment 544575

A little off topic but how do you like the Peruzzo mower

 

[Fallon]

A little off topic but how do you like the Peruzzo mower

It's beefy as ****. I had to taper the ends of the clevis tabs for the 3pt to get my quick hitch to fit. The quick hitch compatibility kit doesn't quite work right. I still have to move the hook up from the quick hitch standard height. Annoying, but not the end of the world. The kit also just to be 2 bars & some bolts. Puts a 2nd toplink bushing several inches below the stock one. Not much for the $100+ they charge for it.

There is no pivot or flex link like on any rotary cutter or flail I've seen, which worries or at least confuses me a little. I have float on my hydraulic toplink & am in the habit of using it, so that takes care of float for me. Update: just looked at a photo & noticed the QH kit bars are covering a slot, so that's probably the stock float solution. Can barely see it behind the clock (was timing how fast the sucky Kubota rear remote valves leak down).

Performance wise I've spent 5-10 minutes running it while there was still some snow on the ground. It seems to cut fine. I should have gotten more HP on the new tractor to run it, or maybe a narrower flail. But I knew I was on the low end of HP when I got it.

Hydraulic offset is nice. Grease points are accessible. Looks like there will be a good handful of bolts to remove to get to the belts for adjustment or replacement.

The shipper had the pallet labeled as 1909lbs. I really couldn't lift it with my loader until I hauled it (really skipped it across the ground) to the shop. Unloaded the PTO shaft & packing material & was able to lift it several feet. Lifts fine on the 3pt though.

Oh, an the obvious color match issues... Should have something that goes with Orange better. ;-p

 

[Peter 315]

It's beefy as ****. I had to taper the ends of the clevis tabs for the 3pt to get my quick hitch to fit. The quick hitch compatibility kit doesn't quite work right. I still have to move the hook up from the quick hitch standard height. Annoying, but not the end of the world. The kit also just to be 2 bars & some bolts. Puts a 2nd toplink bushing several inches below the stock one. Not much for the $100+ they charge for it.

There is no pivot or flex link like on any rotary cutter or flail I've seen, which worries or at least confuses me a little. I have float on my hydraulic toplink & am in the habit of using it, so that takes care of float for me. Update: just looked at a photo & noticed the QH kit bars are covering a slot, so that's probably the stock float solution. Can barely see it behind the clock (was timing how fast the sucky Kubota rear remote valves leak down).

Performance wise I've spent 5-10 minutes running it while there was still some snow on the ground. It seems to cut fine. I should have gotten more HP on the new tractor to run it, or maybe a narrower flail. But I knew I was on the low end of HP when I got it.

Hydraulic offset is nice. Grease points are accessible. Looks like there will be a good handful of bolts to remove to get to the belts for adjustment or replacement.

The shipper had the pallet labeled as 1909lbs. I really couldn't lift it with my loader until I hauled it (really skipped it across the ground) to the shop. Unloaded the PTO shaft & packing material & was able to lift it several feet. Lifts fine on the 3pt though.

Oh, an the obvious color match issues... Should have something that goes with Orange better. ;-pView attachment 544620View attachment 544621

I was looking at this model Flail Ditch Bank Mower: Peruzzo Elk Cross 1600, 60"Cut . Pricey but I wanted to know how well they are built

 

[Texasmark]

Fluid only heats if you cycle warmer fluid into the cylinder. It's not going to magically heat up sitting in the cylinder. The thermal transfer through the hose isn't going to be that great.

Kubota 3rd function valves SUCK these days. After repairing 2 of the valves my sidelink leaks down in a an hour.

Well as a matter fact it WAS on a tandem disc and was used to set the tire depth which set the disc cutting depth . Every time I cycled at the end of the row the fluid got changed as you said. That convinced me that I didn't want a cylinder to control something behind me that I couldn't see without turning around and needed an accurate setting. So I never considered it for a 3rd member.

 

[powerscol]

It appears you may need a DPOCV (dual pilot operated check valve) for each cylinder set up. It cured the creep on my top link.

Here is an example of what I am talking about

 

[Oldoak]

Well, you guys just convinced me why I don't want to add Kubota rear auxiliary valves to my new Kubota tractor purchase. Sure there are work arounds to the valve leakage problem (with additional hydraulic plumbing, clutter, and of course, expense). But the hydraulic valve leakage problem shouldn't exist in the first place, least wise, not as severe as being reported!

Nice professional job, powerscol. :thumbsup:

 

[Fallon]

It appears you may need a DPOCV (dual pilot operated check valve) for each cylinder set up. It cured the creep on my top link.

Here is an example of what I am talking about

It definitely fixes the symptoms you care about. But it also breaks float. Relevant to me & some people, but not everyone.

 

[powerscol]

Well, you guys just convinced me why I don't want to add Kubota rear auxiliary valves to my new Kubota tractor purchase. Sure there are work arounds to the valve leakage problem (with additional hydraulic plumbing, clutter, and of course, expense). But the hydraulic valve leakage problem shouldn't exist in the first place, least wise, not as severe as being reported!

Nice professional job, powerscol. :thumbsup:

I did not make it, I just pull the picture from some information I had. The reason I added the DPOCV is I had a slight creep down due to and internal tractor valve seep. It would drop about a 1/2 inch per hour when in operation. It critical when using some of my hay equipment that is stays set where I put it.

 

[MBJones]

I'm looking to protect my 3 point hitch from sudden shock loads while transporting my inverted snow blower on my Deere 3520. The blower weighs 910 pounds and its center of gravity is about 24" behind the 3 point pins. I need a device to absorb the shock of suddenly hitting a dip or pothole while motoring from site to site. My question is this: will the Hydraulink, while under load from the elevated blower, continue to extend a bit to absorb the shock or is it fully compressed and only going to move in the other direction? I need something to act as a spring. While supporting the load, able to extend farther if as the load increases. My other question: Is there a way to put a bypass flow control valve in a standard hydraulic top link cylinder and have it act like the Hydraulink. Since the oil is incompressible, there would need to be air introduced in the cylinder in order for the piston to move like a shock absorber, but retain its set position. In the off snow season, I could hook the hydraulic top link to my hydraulics and have it operate conventionally.

 

[LouNY]

Install an accumulator in the line,
Hydraulic Accumulator Sizing

and here are some small ones with a decent price,
Search results for "accumulator"

 

[LD1]

I'm looking to protect my 3 point hitch from sudden shock loads while transporting my inverted snow blower on my Deere 3520. The blower weighs 910 pounds and its center of gravity is about 24" behind the 3 point pins. I need a device to absorb the shock of suddenly hitting a dip or pothole while motoring from site to site. My question is this: will the Hydraulink, while under load from the elevated blower, continue to extend a bit to absorb the shock or is it fully compressed and only going to move in the other direction? I need something to act as a spring. While supporting the load, able to extend farther if as the load increases. My other question: Is there a way to put a bypass flow control valve in a standard hydraulic top link cylinder and have it act like the Hydraulink. Since the oil is incompressible, there would need to be air introduced in the cylinder in order for the piston to move like a shock absorber, but retain its set position. In the off snow season, I could hook the hydraulic top link to my hydraulics and have it operate conventionally.

I think you are looking for a problem that simply isnt there. Do you already have a hydraulic toplink? Has it caused you any problems while traversing rough terrain?

 

[MBJones]

I think you are looking for a problem that simply isnt there. Do you already have a hydraulic toplink? Has it caused you any problems while traversing rough terrain?

I do not have a hydraulic top link. While my 910# load is within the 2200# load limits of my 3 point hitch, hitting a bump in the road at 18 mph while carrying that cantilevered load could realistically generate 5 Gs or more. Hitting a curb could generate 10 Gs. With my tires loaded with RimGuard, there is very little shock absorption left in the system. Guys in Canada who use this system more than plow blades are reporting broken link arms while motoring down the road to get to their clients' neighborhood.