Hydraulic tubing

[scarlo101]

On my BX, I am plumbing in my loader valve. I am using 3/8"OD steel tubing lines with .035" wall. My question is do I need to double flare the ends? I am planning on using a single flare. Will that be sufficient? thanx

 

[john_bud]

I don't think hydraulic lines are flared. Bend the line up, but have a shop put on the ends.

 

[CCWKen]

Unless that's stainless steel, I think you're pushing your luck on .035 wall tubing. Especially for a loader. (Think shock loads!) That's going to put your working pressure around 2000 psi or less. I would think .045 wall would be minimum on a loader with .069 prefered. But, I tend to overbuild.

All hydraulic flares should be double. Are you using JIC fittings or SAE fittings? Keep in mind that JIC flares are 37* and SAE are 45*. The common flare tools are 45*. You need a special tool to do JIC flares. If it were me, I'd use brazed fittings on the ends of the tubing and eliminate the flares altogether. A flare becomes your weakest link and often cracks under vibration.

 

[MJPetersen]

37 degree flare tools are the standard for aircraft hydraulic systems, so if you decide to go that way and need tools. Any Aircraft tool supply company will have the 37 degree tools. Flares with aluminum or steel tubing need to be double for hydraulics.

Do show pictures when you get it all put together.

Mike

 

[Wayne County Hose]

I make steel lines for my customers quite frequently. All my 3/8" tubing is seamless .049" wall. I wouldn't use anything less.

Master Cool makes a great double flare tool. It is a hand pump hydraulic unit. They are a little pricy, about $300, but well worth it. You can find them all over EvilBay. Single flare may hold, but you are far better off double flaring.

 

[flusher]

On my BX, I am plumbing in my loader valve. I am using 3/8"OD steel tubing lines with .035" wall. My question is do I need to double flare the ends? I am planning on using a single flare. Will that be sufficient? thanx

Probably want 0.049" wall for 3/8" OD tubing. I'd check into flareless compression fittings for your hydraulics job

Flareless Compression Hydraulic Tube Fittings

A lot less expensive than shelling out for a good flaring tool. Could make your life easier. My tractor dealer uses them all the time for FELs and other jobs.

 

[scarlo101]

Thanks all for your input. It is carbon steel seamless .035" wall tubing that I am using. Researched the tubing today and it is capable of handling 3100 psi. As far as the flaring goes, could not find much info on it. I am using 37 degree JIC fittings. I think I am going to try single flare for now.

 

[Farmerford]

I'm with Flusher on the flareless fittings, and have used the ones he references on the DHH site. But if you look at page 2 under JIC 37deg fittings on the same site you will find "Convert-a-flare" fittings that I find work just as well as the "flareless" fittings Flusher references, are somewhat cheaper, and require fewer adapters since they attach the tube directly to the JIC male flare. When I first used them a few years back I was concerned that that would leak because the joint that seals the ferrule to the tube is a narrow crimp. But after heavy use they are holding up fine.

 

[Farmerford]

I forgot to say your pictures are welcomed. That is pretty country. Three questions.

Do you own all the land in view?

In the last picture, why is there no snow on the field (if I seem ignorant it is because I last saw snow in 1993)?

How does the Ironworker fit in?

Thanks.

 

[scarlo101]

Farmer, no that is not my land, that is my neighbors field. I live on the edge of the survey. My propety is on the right side. The pics with no snow were taken in the fall. The snow pics are from last week. And the ironworker, well that is my latest purchase. I will be picking it up in the next couple of days. I am in the process of constructing a FEL for my BX hence the hydraulic tubing questions.
BTW I also retrofited the snow blade in the pic from a quad blade. I use the 3PH up/down lever to raise and lower the blade at the front. Works very well.

 

[ArTrvlr]

I'm with Flusher on the flareless fittings, and have used the ones he references on the DHH site. But if you look at page 2 under JIC 37deg fittings on the same site you will find "Convert-a-flare" fittings that I find work just as well as the "flareless" fittings Flusher references, are somewhat cheaper, and require fewer adapters since they attach the tube directly to the JIC male flare. When I first used them a few years back I was concerned that that would leak because the joint that seals the ferrule to the tube is a narrow crimp. But after heavy use they are holding up fine.

Farmerford, I have never saw the "convert-a-flare" before, but have used the regular flareless fittings recommended by Flusher, and I never had a problem with them either. They are great for repairing factory tubes that have rubber hoses crimped directly onto the tube. I used to use a combination flareless/field installable (reusable) fitting to repair power steering hoses on forklifts. Anyway, my question is, do the convert-a-flare nut and sleeve just slip over a tube, then tighten onto a 37 degree male fitting? That appears to be how it works, but sometime (ok, most times) I am a little slow to catch on.

scarlo101, back to your original question and your decision to go with single flares: My 2 cents on the flaring is if you want to single flare at 37 degrees, the best way is to use a short nut and reinforcing sleeve like item 318 and 319 shown on that same page 2 of 37 deg. fittings at DHH. Beyond that I believe the life of a flare depends a lot on how well the tube is mounted and the proper flex loop in the hose attached to it. Cut down on the vibration it is subject to by a firm mounting and make sure the hose doesn't pull or push on the connection as the cylinder moves and it will live longer, no matter how you flare it.
jp

 

[Egon]

Web site for tubing ratings:
http://www.air-way.com/pdfs/spres.pdf


Web site for fittings:

Parker tube fittings | Hydraulic House

 

[Farmerford]

jp:

Yep, they just slip on and tighten. The sleeve has a female flare on one end (thin, but from experience satisfactory) and a narrow circumferential ridge inside the tube that bites into the tube when the nut compresses the sleeve. Further turning of the nut presses the female flared end of the sleeve (and now captive tube) against the male flare. Like the flareless fittings, the tube end needs to be fairly square and free of burrs. Once the tube is ready, it is as simple as holding the tube fully into the fitting and tightening the nut.