Hydraulic top link

/ Hydraulic top link #11  
OVRSZD is on the right track with figuring if a toplink can handle it.

These calculators make it a bit quicker for calculating Baum Hydraulics Corp :: Spec Calculator

Also correct that the height above the lift point needs to be calculated.

IIRC, the toplink on a standardized CAT 1 is 18" above the lower links. So if the pull point of the winch is 18 above the toplink....that puts double the load on the toplink. IF its 9" above, 1.5x the pull force of the winch, etc. So need to know the winch location to give you accurate data.

IF using 3000psi cylinders, hoses, etc...a 2.5" cylinder with 1.25" rod can handle 11000#. A 3" cylinder with a 1.5" rod can handle 16000#

But also gotta consider the tractor. Make the toplink the strong point.....whats the next weakest link? Have seem many pics of tractors with the toplink mount ripped right out of the casting on the tractor. Mostly due to 3PH backhoe usage.....but that winch has the ability to exert alot of force just the same.
 
/ Hydraulic top link #12  
I would say NO it will not handle it. I broke my top link using a potato plow, a lot less pressure than a winch.

That top link photo doesn't look too strong. Designed to fail?
 
/ Hydraulic top link #13  
10-4, my friend. Just be careful with that thing. There's a thread on here where a guy was using a three point winch and tore the rear end of his tractor right off. Not a cheap repair. When you hitch onto something you can't pull one of a few things will happen: the clutch will slip, the tractor will slide, or something will break, the top link, cable, choker, or tractor. Just make sure you don't make everything so strong that the tractor is the weakest link.

That would be my concern as well. A winch can exert an infinite amount of force with proper rigging. Not being familiar with a Farmi winch I wasn't sure if they have a spade that can be lowered to the ground?? That would remove the forces from the tractor.

My Son works for a Tow Company. They have a winch box that is SSQA capable. They use it on a Kubota CTL. It has a hydraulic winch. Large spade on the front. Simply uses the CTL to be carried and powered. I've saw that 4ft cube box pull some incredible loads. Usually with the CTL hanging in the air.

Winching is very dangerous!!!
 
/ Hydraulic top link #14  
I have a hydraulic top link on my Farmi 351 and learned to run the tractor at idle while winching. It's another way to ensure I don't overload the top link where it attaches to the tractor. When the engine lugs, it's telling me that the logs are starting to get in a jamb.

I've watched my grapple come off the ground a foot while winching at higher RPM's before and don't care to do that again. I do most of my winching up hill which compounds the force.
 
/ Hydraulic top link #15  
I have a hydraulic top link on my Farmi 351 and learned to run the tractor at idle while winching. It's another way to ensure I don't overload the top link where it attaches to the tractor. When the engine lugs, it's telling me that the logs are starting to get in a jamb.

I've watched my grapple come off the ground a foot while winching at higher RPM's before and don't care to do that again. I do most of my winching up hill which compounds the force.

Your conservative use is wise.

Winching is very dangerous......
 
/ Hydraulic top link #16  
That would be my concern as well. A winch can exert an infinite amount of force with proper rigging. Not being familiar with a Farmi winch I wasn't sure if they have a spade that can be lowered to the ground?? That would remove the forces from the tractor.

My Son works for a Tow Company. They have a winch box that is SSQA capable. They use it on a Kubota CTL. It has a hydraulic winch. Large spade on the front. Simply uses the CTL to be carried and powered. I've saw that 4ft cube box pull some incredible loads. Usually with the CTL hanging in the air.

Winching is very dangerous!!!

They do have a blade (or in my case legs), that digs into the ground. It definitely takes some of the force off the tractor, but it's hard to know exactly how much. I know that for relatively small logs I can dig the legs in and I don't even need the parking brake. You're dead on about rigging also. My winch, and the OP's have 7700# of line pull on the first wrap. Any time in going to use a doubling block, I refrain from rigging the cable back to the tractor. 15,000# is too much! I always hook the end to a tree or other anchor.

OP, perhaps the safest thing to do would be to replace your top link with the exact same one you had. It sounds like it would be good for a few years, give you a clue before it needed replacement, and would act as a shear pin, being the first and one of the cheapest things that can fail.
 

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