Hydraulic top link

[Big Wave D]

Everything you wrote is true, except if you have a DPOCV. Search it like I suggested above.

Thanks for the validation on my thought process.

I do understand what you were saying about that special cylinder. It takes the working pressure of the pump to over come the check valves or what ever device they use to prevent fluid from escaping when lower than operating pressure.

I'm thinking lifts where people are on board would be mandated to using those.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Crazy - when I use my grader I always use a top link to start then switch to a chain top link for one more pass to finish up. If I start off with a floating top link and a hard road the grader will jump around quite a bit when it hits an embedded rock or hard spot as there is nothing to hold it from kicking or rolling up. Also if the back is not real heavy it will tend to roll forward on the front blade with normal cutting. ( Mine doesn't do this but some do ) After I get everything loosened up I take the pin out of the fixed link and use the chain so I can follow the road contour better and still pick the grader up.
What I am trying to say is that I don't continually switch between fixed and float. I only change once. You may also find that to be true so your float valve may not be that important.
Maybe when I get my hydraulic top link I will be able to throw my chain link away.

 

[kennyd]

FYI: You cannot "float" a cylinder with a DPOCV either

 

[crazyal]

Sounds like the check valve would defeat what I would like to be able to do.

I think the hydralink has some air in it to account for the difference in volume between the side with the rod and without it. Technically I think I could just add a breather to one port and fill a reserve up with oil and have a valve between it and the other port on the cylinder. It may be more work than it's worth.

I think you'll need a remote that's able to do float.

 

[crazyal]

Crazy - when I use my grader I always use a top link to start then switch to a chain top link for one more pass to finish up. If I start off with a floating top link and a hard road the grader will jump around quite a bit when it hits an embedded rock or hard spot as there is nothing to hold it from kicking or rolling up. Also if the back is not real heavy it will tend to roll forward on the front blade with normal cutting. ( Mine doesn't do this but some do ) After I get everything loosened up I take the pin out of the fixed link and use the chain so I can follow the road contour better and still pick the grader up.
What I am trying to say is that I don't continually switch between fixed and float. I only change once. You may also find that to be true so your float valve may not be that important.
Maybe when I get my hydraulic top link I will be able to throw my chain link away.

There's a video on YouTube of a LandPride grader behind a pretty small tractor. With the ripping teeth down it jumps quite a bit but it also looks light. Once they pull them up it's much smoother. I figured that I would just add weight to the rear of the grader but I've never used one so it'll be a learning experience.

 

[rjkobbeman]

There's a video on YouTube of a LandPride grader behind a pretty small tractor. With the ripping teeth down it jumps quite a bit but it also looks light. Once they pull them up it's much smoother. I figured that I would just add weight to the rear of the grader but I've never used one so it'll be a learning experience.

Although I love my CCM hydraulic top link, it is really nothing out of the ordinary... except maybe the check-valve. If you don't want that, there are a lot of places to get a regular HTL.

I have a Land Pride grading scraper I use to grade my long gravel drive... and never see the need to float the top link. I actually use the top link to cut "more" or cut "less". Floating would prevent me from doing that. My 3ph is set all the way down so the grading scraper is resting on the ground. The HTL is used to change the angle of attack and take a bigger or smaller bite.

 

[fixit]

OK if you only want to adjust the lenght or let it float then i would thing you could have a ram with a tap on each port connected to a small tank that is big enough to except the difference in volume between the rod side and the non rod end

Open both taps and it will float. Then lift arms to set to lenght then shut valves to lock off:thumbsup:

Just thinking aloud so might well be wrong or missed the point:confused2:

 

[crazyal]

Although I love my CCM hydraulic top link, it is really nothing out of the ordinary... except maybe the check-valve. If you don't want that, there are a lot of places to get a regular HTL.

I have a Land Pride grading scraper I use to grade my long gravel drive... and never see the need to float the top link. I actually use the top link to cut "more" or cut "less". Floating would prevent me from doing that. My 3ph is set all the way down so the grading scraper is resting on the ground. The HTL is used to change the angle of attack and take a bigger or smaller bite.

My drive is almost 3/4 of a mile long with plenty of changes of grade. On flat ground I would think just setting the standard top link would be fine but at the transitions points I'm wondering if I would bit in too much. My thought was I could just let it float and use weight and blade height adjustment to control the bite.

Part of the reason I'm thinking of holding off on the remotes is I'm still not positive exactly what combination I would want.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My drive is almost 3/4 of a mile long with plenty of changes of grade. On flat ground I would think just setting the standard top link would be fine but at the transitions points I'm wondering if I would bit in too much. My thought was I could just let it float and use weight and blade height adjustment to control the bite.

Part of the reason I'm thinking of holding off on the remotes is I'm still not positive exactly what combination I would want.

When in doubt, get it all. Get all of the valves with float and auto kick-out detents. That way you have every alternative and you can't go wrong. Costs a little bit more, but worth it.

At transition areas, I put the side link in float mode so as to allow the blade to twist through the transition. Makes for a very smooth job. :thumbsup:

 

[skipmarcy]

My drive is almost 3/4 of a mile long with plenty of changes of grade. On flat ground I would think just setting the standard top link would be fine but at the transitions points I'm wondering if I would bit in too much. My thought was I could just let it float and use weight and blade height adjustment to control the bite.

Part of the reason I'm thinking of holding off on the remotes is I'm still not positive exactly what combination I would want.

This is where alot of practice comes into play and is exactly what the hydraulic toplink is for - so you can adjust/tweek on the fly as you watch what you are doing. If you have your cutting blade floating, whether using the front or rear blade, as material builds up in your box and/or over the blade you will find it bites more and more. With the hyd. cyl. you can tweek this as you go and get a much better grade. Hint - the slower you go while grading with a boxblade, the easier it is to learn how sensitive your cut angle is and adjust your toplink. Ideally your toplink should be roughly in the middle of it's stroke when your boxblade is nice & flat on level ground, this way you have alot of control whether pulling or pushing. This is why I made my own cylinder up to match my exact length requirements for my particular tractor. Personally I used a DPOC valve for my cylinder but some don't, it's just a good safety when a heavy implement is on the hitch or when your control valves get a little worn and leak down some.