Hydraulic top link

[crazyal]

In the future I'm planning on adding two remotes but not sure if I'll have time to do it this summer. I looked at the Hydralink but it seams to me it would be a waste if I'm just going to add TnT down the road. I was thinking that I could use a top cylinder from a TnT set up and connect the two ports with hydraulic lines and a simple ball valve and fill it with hydraulic oil and get the similar results. Valve open would float, valve closed would lock it at that length (barring any internal piston leak).

When I add the remotes I would just be able to remove the valve and put quick connects on the ends of the hydraulic lines. Plus unlike the Hydralink I could mount the valve within reach from the seat.

Why I'm thinking of doing this is I want to make a grading scraper. Most people who have them seam to let them float when using them. For short runs this would be a PIA vs if everything but the valve will be used for a TnT then it's not really costing much.

So what do you guys think? Waste of time? Should work just fine? Would work but not that well?

 

[Zebrafive]

You would have to be able to move the cylinder to the length you want and then close the valve. I can see where this may be hard to do without hydraulic power. It might also be hard to make minor adjustments.

 

[crazyal]

It wouldn't be for minor adjustments into I have the remotes installed but more of an easy way to make any attachment float. When the grader is sitting flat on the ground closing the valve would just set the length. The only reason for closing it would be for transporting, either to the spot on the road or if I want to turn around or back up to do another pass.

While searching for hydraullic top links I'm finding some with this set up on them.

Is that just so both hoses mount next to each other or does the block serve another purpose?

 

[Rustyiron]

Fill me in on a TnT. What is it? As for your hyd. rop link, If you are able to build a grader box you can surely build a hyd top link. I've made a few using a short cyl. and welding speed balls on the ends. Maybe I don't understand wuthout knowing what a TnT is.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Crazy that is a DPOCV or Double Pilot Operated Check Valve. I can tell you this because I just learned it :laughing: ( ie don't trust me 100% )
It is ment for a safty devise. It holds the pressure in the cylinders in case you blow a hose. It will also hold the cylinder if you have a leaky control valve.

 

[rjkobbeman]

It wouldn't be for minor adjustments into I have the remotes installed but more of an easy way to make any attachment float. When the grader is sitting flat on the ground closing the valve would just set the length. The only reason for closing it would be for transporting, either to the spot on the road or if I want to turn around or back up to do another pass.

While searching for hydraullic top links I'm finding some with this set up on them.

Is that just so both hoses mount next to each other or does the block serve another purpose?

Crazy that is a DPOCV or Double Pilot Operated Check Valve. I can tell you this because I just learned it :laughing: ( ie don't trust me 100% )
It is ment for a safty devise. It holds the pressure in the cylinders in case you blow a hose. It will also hold the cylinder if you have a leaky control valve.

Crazyal,

That unit you have a pic of is identical to my HTL from CCM. I am sure it is the same unit.

Like Gordon says, that block is a check valve. It is a safety. If you blow a hose, the cylinder will not move. It requires significant pressure (as is supplied by the pump when you are actually wanting to move the cylinder) to move. This means that a valve in the "float" position will not work... if you ever wanted to use it for that (normally not required in the HTL application).

I got mine right after I got my tractor last year. It is priceless. You will love it if/when you get one.

I can see the Hydralink being handy if you just want a top link that is easy to adjust. If you want to lift an implement off of the ground it is pretty much useless in my opinion. It is pretty much a cylinder that is in "float" or "lock" mode. There is no hydraulic pressure to lift.

 

[Chilly807]

You may have a problem with the hoses and isolation valve because the volume on each end of the cylinder is different. One end has only the end of the piston, the other has the rod as well. In other words, when you retract the cylinder, the displaced fluid volume as the piston moves back will be greater than the space it has to fill.

Sean

 

[kennyd]

Search the term "dpocv" for lots of reading on those cylinders, they will NOT work with the two hose and ball valve method you proposed.

 

[Big Wave D]

It seems that the cylinder would have to have a closed system. The hose ends would have to be connected to one another, thus saving you from having more fluid on one side of the piston than the hose it can go in too.

If you spliced a simple ball valve into your 'loop', it seems you'd at least have float and lock, plus you could crack the ball valve open just a touch and have a 'controlled' or slower reacting float.

For those of you who really know what you're talking about, tell me if I'm hot, cold, or insane, please.

Thanks

 

[kennyd]

It seems that the cylinder would have to have a closed system. The hose ends would have to be connected to one another, thus saving you from having more fluid on one side of the piston than the hose it can go in too.

If you spliced a simple ball valve into your 'loop', it seems you'd at least have float and lock, plus you could crack the ball valve open just a touch and have a 'controlled' or slower reacting float.

For those of you who really know what you're talking about, tell me if I'm hot, cold, or insane, please.

Thanks

Everything you wrote is true, except if you have a DPOCV. Search it like I suggested above.