Hydraulic Top link

[kennyd]

The BSSP refers to British threads found on these top links. Dont ask me why, but I think CCM does the same thing.

I hope to see your pics soon, as I am planning to add a similar top link and hose set-up for my 3320. I suspect 36" hoses will be the deal. I agree some kind of "saddle" would take the stress off the block on the cylinder. Perhaps something as simple as a plastic shim under the block and held by a large zip-tie or hose clamp would work (?).

I agree that somebody should be able to offer a top-link package with various hose lengths and couplers. Even if the consumer had to determine the proper hose lengths....it could be a nice package. I guess that's what Deere is about (but were too tight :laughing.

Looking forward to your installation pics. I think I'm going to use a Fasse kit installed on my current JD rear remotes in order to keep both my grapple hydraulics and top link operable.

The Surplus Center HTL's now include the BSPP to NPT adapters needed. These are made in Italy, and that's a common fitting there.

Be sure to check this out before you get the Fasse Setup: 3320 diverter installed - TractorByNet.com

 

[93Mustang]

KennyD - i wish i had checked out your album prior to my toplink install. (I will now check out the rest of your albums as well...) I installed the CCM - turned the valve on top sideways but I think the thing is tired of me trying to reposition it (I have gone through a few hoses as I tried to get a reasonalbe angle from toplink to couplers and agree a kit for us not so mechanically inclined folks would be great) - I still hate the way my hoses are contorted when I lift the three point and I still have a little leak somewhere which is driving me crazy! I think tomorrow I will try to flip it over and see if that works with my current hose and angle configuration(I am well on my way to doubling the cost of the thing through multiple trips to the hydraulic store for hoses and fittings...)

 

[kennyd]

KennyD - i wish i had checked out your album prior to my toplink install. (I will now check out the rest of your albums as well...) I installed the CCM - turned the valve on top sideways but I think the thing is tired of me trying to reposition it (I have gone through a few hoses as I tried to get a reasonalbe angle from toplink to couplers and agree a kit for us not so mechanically inclined folks would be great) - I still hate the way my hoses are contorted when I lift the three point and I still have a little leak somewhere which is driving me crazy! I think tomorrow I will try to flip it over and see if that works with my current hose and angle configuration(I am well on my way to doubling the cost of the thing through multiple trips to the hydraulic store for hoses and fittings...)

How far from Westminster, MD are you?

 

[kennyd]

Excellent pics. What did you use for hose cover?

Sorry, I missed this question before...it's just some sleeving my local place has on the shelf, they sell it by the foot. DHH also has it: Nylon Protective Sleeve (NPS)

 

[93Mustang]

kennyD - I live in Chester Springs PA - Google says that is about 110 miles from Westminster, MD.

You know something that really made me mad - (I was just checking out your reusable hose making) - the people at the hydraulic shop have been very helpful but they don't clean the hoses out and there is "stuff" that remains in there (I know because I have connected and disconnected them so many times trying to get this right). I worried about that as it seemed logical that they should be cleaned first as i found hose "residue" in the couplers but they did not seem to think it a big deal. I will make sure they get cleaned first going forward.

Dana

 

[KennedyDiesel]

The BSSP refers to British threads found on these top links. Dont ask me why, but I think CCM does the same thing.

I hope to see your pics soon, as I am planning to add a similar top link and hose set-up for my 3320. I suspect 36" hoses will be the deal. I agree some kind of "saddle" would take the stress off the block on the cylinder. Perhaps something as simple as a plastic shim under the block and held by a large zip-tie or hose clamp would work (?).

I agree that somebody should be able to offer a top-link package with various hose lengths and couplers. Even if the consumer had to determine the proper hose lengths....it could be a nice package. I guess that's what Deere is about (but were too tight :laughing.

Looking forward to your installation pics. I think I'm going to use a Fasse kit installed on my current JD rear remotes in order to keep both my grapple hydraulics and top link operable.

It's here, but I haven't had time to mess with it. FYI the email that I sent to CCM was never returned.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Sorry no pics yet, but here is what I came up with:

Leave valve oriented as delivered.

Face valve upward. Downward will interfere with PTO shield if accidentally left up. Side exit interferes with my Power Beyond hose.

24" of 1/4" hose is plenty

I want to find 90 swivel fittings so that it can swivel. In other words the BSP piece remains stationary and the entire fitting swivels. I could probably do without the free swivel function and lock in place.


The fiber washers included with the adapter fittings are junk. I ended up using copper washers to stop the seeping. I don't have the 90's yet so I have to watch when I raise up as the lines hit the crossbar.

 

[kennyd]

Sorry no pics yet, but here is what I came up with:

Leave valve oriented as delivered.

Face valve upward. Downward will interfere with PTO shield if accidentally left up. Side exit interferes with my Power Beyond hose.

24" of 1/4" hose is plenty

I want to find 90 swivel fittings so that it can swivel. In other words the BSP piece remains stationary and the entire fitting swivels. I could probably do without the free swivel function and lock in place.


The fiber washers included with the adapter fittings are junk. I ended up using copper washers to stop the seeping. I don't have the 90's yet so I have to watch when I raise up as the lines hit the crossbar.

Are you looking for "live" swivels? Ones that can swivel under pressure? They are not cheap...

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Live would be nicebut not necessary once I get them oriented.

Sounds like I need a BSP to straight pipe for my first fitting and then a 90° swivel on the hose end. I think my hoses will still be plenty long enough.

I'm really jazzed about having this function. I've had the electric diverter for 5 or so years now (from new) and never really used it other than to test with my grapple. Even then I never actually used my grapple other than assembling/installing.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Biggest question I have now is "why did I wait so long to do this?" This makes the Imatch truly perform as it should. Without it, the Imatch was a bit clunky as none of my implements matched the proper angle when connecting so I always had to jack the top link.

I ended up rotating the ports to face the LH side of the tractor and left them on top. Orienting them Upward hit the cross brace that the couplers are mounted to. To the RH side hit the Power Beyond hose. I really wish Deere had gone with a precision steel "horseshoe" instead of a hose, but...


So here is what I have:

2) 24" of 1/4" hose length with male couplers on one end and 1/2" FPT on other
Machine supplied fittings with the 45ｰ inner chamfer for swivel pipe.
2) 90ｰ swivel (non live) pipe fittings-femal swivel one end male NPT other


It follows my Imatch perfectly without undue stress when lowered. Maybe 2" more hose wouldn't hurt, but it's nice and compact. I also considered swapping teh orientation of the check valve block so it was further away from the tractor.

I'll try to get some use out of it and if it works as planned I'll post some pice.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

I should add that I'll probably move this function off of the diverter and on to the 3rd SCV. I find myself needing the loader and top link repeatedly and forget to switch the function a lot.

My rear blade is cat 1 and 2 combined and a bit tall for my tractor. When moving snow I now use the top link top raise and lower the blade rather than the rockshaft. Eventually I may make some secondary mounts and get a lower bite, but for now it's handy to get my clearance with the top link.

 

[foggy1111]

I should add that I'll probably move this function off of the diverter and on to the 3rd SCV. I find myself needing the loader and top link repeatedly and forget to switch the function a lot.

My rear blade is cat 1 and 2 combined and a bit tall for my tractor. When moving snow I now use the top link top raise and lower the blade rather than the rockshaft. Eventually I may make some secondary mounts and get a lower bite, but for now it's handy to get my clearance with the top link.

This would all be so much easier to envision.....if we had a PICTURE! :laughing:

 

[KennedyDiesel]

I suppose now I'll have to take a picture, but first I'd need to wash the darn thing.


Anyhow, my double piloted check valves have quit. Top link drifts relatively quickly making Harley Rake work a pain. I don't hear the "click" any more. It could be from bouncing with a load on teh 3 pt I don't know.

So, haveing never seen a double piloted check valve in action is this something that might be serviceable?

 

[HayDR]

Does the hyd. toplink always drift in the same direction?

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Boy I couldn't tell you it's always extending naturally. I never tried to see if it collapses as there are far less scenarios that would put closing force on the link.

I suppose a floor jack under a 3 point blade would suffice, but would only apply force for minimal travel.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Drift appears to be in both directions. Extension faster than compression, but the compression force is much less and much harder to detect/meaure.

I'll put the Harley Rake back on soon and retest. I can fully extend thetop link so that teh wheels are on the ground and the drum hanging. It did seem to settle, but I forgot to measure the top link as a bale stacking project came up so I jumped on, retratced, lifted and went to it.

I must say the drift is quite quick and it absolutely sucks for Harley Raking or brush hogging where top link position can be critical...

 

[Mechanos]

For those that have to have (or need to have) everything.... you could always do some custom plumbing and install bypass valves around the DPOCVs. Then you could use float features by bypassing the check valves or lock the cylinder in place with the check valves for other purposes. Where there's a will, there's a way.

 

[Glen Watkins]

I read through this thread and am kind of confused I thought the idea of this type of top-link was the check valves built in to the cylinder are supposed to hold position? I am considering adding a htl for certain spots that i mow where I back over edges and want a tight top link and other times it needs to float. I would run it off of a third scv. I am also trying to determine the correct one for my 4320.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I read through this thread and am kind of confused I thought the idea of this type of top-link was the check valves built in to the cylinder are supposed to hold position? I am considering adding a htl for certain spots that i mow where I back over edges and want a tight top link and other times it needs to float. I would run it off of a third scv. I am also trying to determine the correct one for my 4320.

You will not find what you are looking for. Either it has the DPOCV and is locked in place or you get a HTL without the check valve so that you are able to use the float mode when you want-need it. The HTL with the DPOCV talked about in this thread that is allowing the cylinder to move has a faulty check valve. Remember though that if his actual spool valve was good, his movement would be minimal. His spool valve seals most likely need to be replaced.

I usually recommend a top link with a working length of 19"-29" for your size tractor. Sometimes a person needs a different length and we can usually accommodate their needs, but most of the time 19"-29" works best. Glen, the HTL that I recommend for your size tractor is a 2 1/2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod. It would cost you $200 + shipping with a hose kit with 1/2" male AG quick disconnects costing another $40 + shipping. If you are interested, let me know.

 

[Glen Watkins]

Thanks for the info Brian I will keep you in mind if i decide to get one. I think my oem top link measures just a hair over 18". Would I be able to get a htl that shortens to 18"?