Hydraulic Top link

[KennedyDiesel]

I'm adding a Farmi Skidding winch to my equipment and it sounds like adapting the Imatch will be difficult to impractical as the attach point is more or less right on top of the winch module.

So it looks like I'll be manual attach at least for now. This will also almost certainly require top link adjustment as well. I've always wanted a top and tilt setup, but my concern is drift/settling. With the mechanical setup I have none. I can get on the tractor and adjust my position control and go to work. I just need to change the length for some implements like my MX5.

So I guess a double piloted setup is what I should run. I was hoping to find something neat and tidy. Compact and clean with proper length hoses etc. Something like the Deere top n tilt only with the double piloted valves to prevent drifting.

Suggestions?


How is the Deere TnT as far as drift/settling?

Anyone using this with the electric diverter? If it's stable and drift free when the diverter is controlling the loader joystick that is all that I ask.


I should add that I already have the electric diverter so I have 4 remotes out back.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Your best bet may be CCM. Tractor Hydraulic toplinks, Top-N-Tilt, Side link cylinders

A JD OEM top link may work fine, but for sure is more $$$ and does not have the DPOCV which will lock the cylinder in place.

Good luck

 

[kennyd]

Your best bet may be CCM. Tractor Hydraulic toplinks, Top-N-Tilt, Side link cylinders

A JD OEM top link may work fine, but for sure is more $$$ and does not have the DPOCV which will lock the cylinder in place.

Good luck

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

^^^^^^What he wrote

Search the terms "ccm" and "DPOCV" for hours of reading.

 

[MikeyB]

I'm adding a Farmi Skidding winch to my equipment and it sounds like adapting the Imatch will be difficult to impractical as the attach point is more or less right on top of the winch module.

So it looks like I'll be manual attach at least for now. This will also almost certainly require top link adjustment as well. I've always wanted a top and tilt setup, but my concern is drift/settling. With the mechanical setup I have none. I can get on the tractor and adjust my position control and go to work. I just need to change the length for some implements like my MX5.

So I guess a double piloted setup is what I should run. I was hoping to find something neat and tidy. Compact and clean with proper length hoses etc. Something like the Deere top n tilt only with the double piloted valves to prevent drifting.

Suggestions?


How is the Deere TnT as far as drift/settling?

Anyone using this with the electric diverter? If it's stable and drift free when the diverter is controlling the loader joystick that is all that I ask.


I should add that I already have the electric diverter so I have 4 remotes out back.

For what its worth, I have the 3rd SCV and the JD top-link on my 3320. I have no drift that is noticeable on mine. My 3rd scv lever is spring loaded closed so I don't think it will allow any movement of pressure or flow when the lever is not in use. Oops, just saw that you have the electric diverter so my info is probably not much good to you.

HTH,
Mike

ps: Are you on the DieselPage?

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Yeah I'm heading back around the CCM way it seems. The electric diverter was added at purchase (2006 model) with just this in mind. Being a business man I just would have thought that CCM would have taken some of teh more popular platforms and set up a kit or at least a general guide as to what fits say a 3x20 and 4x20 Deere etc. Any suggestions on optimal length for these? I'm the kind of guy that buys something like this then regrets not getting just a 1/2" longer or shorter as it's not quite perfect.

MikeyB Yes I am.

I actually could use the 3rd SCV, but I often use that for my Harley rake or grapple. The elec diverter would be for a simple positioning of the TNT and then switch back over.

I guess I'm being a bit lazy here plus I can't help but think there may be something more sleek or packaged out there.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I guess I'm being a bit lazy here plus I can't help but think there may be something more sleek or packaged out there.

Just what are you looking for? You looking for the DPOCV to be hidden somewhere? :confused3:

 

[kennyd]

Surplus Center also stock 2 sizes: https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=&byKeyword=yes&search=9-7682

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Just what are you looking for? You looking for the DPOCV to be hidden somewhere? :confused3:

It just looks a bit frail from the pics. Also not sure why the fitings come straight out of teh cylinder? Is there a valve in there as well? I would think a nice swept 90 would clean it up and saddle the valve block to the cylinder body.

I's hard to see from CCM's limited pic, but it looks like both hydraulic lines attach to the valve block?

 

[kennyd]

It just looks a bit frail from the pics. Also not sure why the fitings come straight out of teh cylinder? Is there a valve in there as well? I would think a nice swept 90 would clean it up and saddle the valve block to the cylinder body.

I's hard to see from CCM's limited pic, but it looks like both hydraulic lines attach to the valve block?

Yes, the hoses attach to the valve block-it's the block that give the cylinder the "holding" ability even if a hos fails. 90* fittings could certainly be used. I used 45* ones, here are some better pictures in my Picasa album: Picasa Web Albums - Ken - HTL

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Surplus Center also stock 2 sizes: https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=&byKeyword=yes&search=9-7682

Now they have some better pics:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/MorePhotos.asp?ITEM=9-7682-11

Clean looking units. The CCM do not look as nice, but it's hard to get any detail at all from their pics. With the SC ones I can see the banjo fittings etc. I think I'd like to turn the valve block 90ｰ and run a straight fitting out and up to my remotes. Again I would think some sort of saddle to tie the valve assy down securely would be a big plus.


Ports 3/8" BSPP ?

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Yes, the hoses attach to the valve block-it's the block that give the cylinder the "holding" ability even if a hos fails. 90* fittings could certainly be used. I used 45* ones, here are some better pictures in my Picasa album: Picasa Web Albums - Ken - HTL

Excellent pics. What did you use for hose cover?

Looks like you did as I had figured and turned the valve sideways. I think I'll order one and see how it goes! The OE manual link was same price so it's a no brainer...

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Excellent pics. What did you use for hose cover?

Looks like you did as I had figured and turned the valve sideways. I think I'll order one and see how it goes! The OE manual link was same price so it's a no brainer...

I seriously doubt that you will be sorry, don't forget a hose & QD kit.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Thanks for the reminder.

I'll build my hoses with my local CarQuest so I can get the length and fittings that I need once I start the layout.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks for the reminder.

I'll build my hoses with my local CarQuest so I can get the length and fittings that I need once I start the layout.

Can you let us know what length of hoses that you use? 36" seems to be a very common and good length.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Will do. I hope to post pics. if and when it shows up. I ordered via std shipment from teh Surplus Center as they are in NE and should get here this week. Unfortunately I am spoiled by the way we keep our customers informed (auto generated tracking emails) of order progress and they have an absolute BS system. I have only one email confirming the order. Follow the link back to log in and it says this:

We seem to have more than one match for the information that you entered.
Please give us the following additional information.

It just loops to this regardless what I do.

 

[teg]

...an absolute BS system... We seem to have more than one match for the information that you entered.
Please give us the following additional information.

It just loops to this regardless what I do.

That happen to me, You are in their system twice, you have to call them up and they can delete one of the accounts... and you'll be good to go like me.

If you used their regular shipping... they will not fill your order for a couple of days... why? because they can...

Once you look at the tracking, it only takes UPS 2.5 days from pickup to drop off. but surpuss center sit on it for four days %^&*&*$

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Yeah they told me I registered twice. Sorry, I did not. I guess we spoil our customers as 99% or more of orders placed before noon ship same day.

Anyhow it will get here next week. I managed to get my top link pin removed. Heated to a glow and beat with a hammer and nothing. Got out my Snap On air hammer and within a few seconds of driving it was moving. Dunno how or why it froze in the 3 pt is always moving and chattering and none of the other pins stuck.

 

[foggy1111]

Now they have some better pics:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/MorePhotos.asp?ITEM=9-7682-11

Clean looking units. The CCM do not look as nice, but it's hard to get any detail at all from their pics. With the SC ones I can see the banjo fittings etc. I think I'd like to turn the valve block 90ｰ and run a straight fitting out and up to my remotes. Again I would think some sort of saddle to tie the valve assy down securely would be a big plus.


Ports 3/8" BSPP ?

The BSSP refers to British threads found on these top links. Dont ask me why, but I think CCM does the same thing.

I hope to see your pics soon, as I am planning to add a similar top link and hose set-up for my 3320. I suspect 36" hoses will be the deal. I agree some kind of "saddle" would take the stress off the block on the cylinder. Perhaps something as simple as a plastic shim under the block and held by a large zip-tie or hose clamp would work (?).

I agree that somebody should be able to offer a top-link package with various hose lengths and couplers. Even if the consumer had to determine the proper hose lengths....it could be a nice package. I guess that's what Deere is about (but were too tight :laughing.

Looking forward to your installation pics. I think I'm going to use a Fasse kit installed on my current JD rear remotes in order to keep both my grapple hydraulics and top link operable.

 

[jonyyuma]

Yes, the hoses attach to the valve block-it's the block that give the cylinder the "holding" ability even if a hos fails. 90* fittings could certainly be used. I used 45* ones, here are some better pictures in my Picasa album: Picasa Web Albums - Ken - HTL

Thanks for the beautiful photos of the entire process, you do nice work. jy

 

[kennyd]

Thanks for the beautiful photos of the entire process, you do nice work. jy

You are welcome and thank you! Be sure to check out the other albums please-like the one on making your own hoses