Buying a new tractor and was considering a hydraulic top-link for using a box blade. I have a hydraulic top-link on another tractor for a TR3 rake but on a smaller B2910 do you think it is necessary considering the cost for the hydraulic connection is $600 and the link is $250. The TR3 weighs 900-1000lbs but for a 60 inch box blade is it worth the $$$? Any thoughts?
hydraulic top-link ?
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Bird
Rest in Peace
Is it worth it? Absolutely! I added it to my B2710 primarily for using the 60" box blade, but it also made hooking up other implements easier, tilting mowers forward to get them higher after picking them up with the 3-point to inspect and/or clean the underside, or to get them higher when going onto or off the trailer, etc.
frank_f15
Super Member, Rest in Peace
if it is not a strain n your $$$$ get it. see BIRDS post. what he don;t know about owning and operating a cut, ain't worth knowing./w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif
Anonymous Poster
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Hi,
I want one!
But I also was surprised how easy it was for me to lean back and adjust the top link on my B2910 from the seat when using the box blade I got a couple months ago.
Now I could not adjust it on the fly. I stopped and then adjusted and tried the new setting, and adjusted again as needed.
Having no prior experience with the box blade, from reading posts here I got the impression that I would have to stop and get off the tractor to make adjustments. No one said that, I just thought it. In that frame of mind I was happily surprised that I could make the adjustments from the seat.
My conclusion is that the hydraulic top link is not needed on the b2910, but I still want one and will probably either buy a kit or do it myself in the future by buying the parts!
I should also point out that I ended up with a cheap KK box blace, and that may change the equation, as it probably only weighs about 400 lbs, if that.
Bill in Pgh, PA
I want one!
But I also was surprised how easy it was for me to lean back and adjust the top link on my B2910 from the seat when using the box blade I got a couple months ago.
Now I could not adjust it on the fly. I stopped and then adjusted and tried the new setting, and adjusted again as needed.
Having no prior experience with the box blade, from reading posts here I got the impression that I would have to stop and get off the tractor to make adjustments. No one said that, I just thought it. In that frame of mind I was happily surprised that I could make the adjustments from the seat.
My conclusion is that the hydraulic top link is not needed on the b2910, but I still want one and will probably either buy a kit or do it myself in the future by buying the parts!
I should also point out that I ended up with a cheap KK box blace, and that may change the equation, as it probably only weighs about 400 lbs, if that.
Bill in Pgh, PA
DocHeb
Veteran Member
That $600 and $250 seems high. Not Kubota, but a rear remote (installed by the dealer, fitting nicely into the fender slot) on my New Holland TC40D was $250. I purchased a hydraulic top link from <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.green-mfg.com/?p=toplink.php>Green Manufacturing</A> for $90 and $9 shipping. It was at my door in three days. Hoses were $50 dollars, and I was in business.
ronjhall
Super Star Member
kch
Here is a<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=owning&Number=53434&fpart=2#Post53434> link </A>to a list of parts that I bought for the Top N Tilt that I installed on my 2910. I find the kit is well worth the price. As other have said it helps in a lot of other uses besides using a Box Blade.
Here is a<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=owning&Number=53434&fpart=2#Post53434> link </A>to a list of parts that I bought for the Top N Tilt that I installed on my 2910. I find the kit is well worth the price. As other have said it helps in a lot of other uses besides using a Box Blade.
Gary_in_Indiana
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Doc,
That sure sounds like one heck of a deal. Is that hydraulic top link fairly 'standard' or is there such a thing as a standard for them? Was it fairly easy to install and connect to your hydraulic system? Were there instructions that a non-mechanically-inclined person could successfullly follow? How does it work now that you have it on?
That sure sounds like one heck of a deal. Is that hydraulic top link fairly 'standard' or is there such a thing as a standard for them? Was it fairly easy to install and connect to your hydraulic system? Were there instructions that a non-mechanically-inclined person could successfullly follow? How does it work now that you have it on?
Gary_in_Indiana
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I just referred back to Ron's equipment list and prices for his 'Top-n-Tilt' set up and am confused. I'm sure I'm showing my naivete' here, but what is the difference between a hydraulic top link as mentioned above earlier in this thread and the 'Top-n-Tilt' set up you describe? What does one do that the other won't or can't do?
Also, would something like either one of those be compatible with a quick attach assembly such as the Speeco or Deere's I-Match system? Would either be superior and why?
I know this is a lot of stuff to ask in one post but I'm truly lost on this stuff. Any insights anyone can offer will certainly be appreciated. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Also, would something like either one of those be compatible with a quick attach assembly such as the Speeco or Deere's I-Match system? Would either be superior and why?
I know this is a lot of stuff to ask in one post but I'm truly lost on this stuff. Any insights anyone can offer will certainly be appreciated. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
MikePA
Super Moderator
Top = hydraulic toplink.
Tilt = hydraulic right 3ph adjuster instead of the crank arrangement found on most tractors.
Top allows you to change the angle of attack of a box blade. Tilt allows you to tilt the box blade to the left or right for, for example, putting a crown on a road.
I don't have personal experience, but I can not see why either of these would not be compatible with a quick hitch.
Tilt = hydraulic right 3ph adjuster instead of the crank arrangement found on most tractors.
Top allows you to change the angle of attack of a box blade. Tilt allows you to tilt the box blade to the left or right for, for example, putting a crown on a road.
I don't have personal experience, but I can not see why either of these would not be compatible with a quick hitch.
Gary_in_Indiana
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Thanks for the simple and easy to understand answer. Would I be correct in assuming I could add a hydraulic top link now and add a hydraulic tilt later? If that's correct, is there anything I should look out for when doing the first so I don't have to rework a bunch of stuff when might later add the second?
MikePA
Super Moderator
<font color=blue>Thanks for the simple and easy to understand answer.</font color=blue>
You're welcome. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
<font color=blue>Would I be correct in assuming I could add a hydraulic top link now and add a hydraulic tilt later?</font color=blue>
I'm not familiar with the JD set up, but this is a true statement for NH.
<font color=blue>If that's correct, is there anything I should look out for when doing the first so I don't have to rework a bunch of stuff when might later add the second? </font color=blue>
Perhaps one of the JD people will chime in, but with the NH, the only thing I am aware of (I havn't done this yet, but am planning on adding the hyd toplink next spring) is installing the first hyd control so the lever sticks out of the middle slot in the right hand fender. (The 3ph lever is already coming out of the innermost slot.) This would alow you to add the second remote lever without having to move/remove other levers. There might also be an issue with where the quick connects mount, but since these are options on any Boomer, I believe they've already thought of this. In fact, if I remember the pictures correctly, all the tubing for the quick connects are rigid tubing which exit the rear of the tractor somewhere near the ROPS cross bar.
You're welcome. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
<font color=blue>Would I be correct in assuming I could add a hydraulic top link now and add a hydraulic tilt later?</font color=blue>
I'm not familiar with the JD set up, but this is a true statement for NH.
<font color=blue>If that's correct, is there anything I should look out for when doing the first so I don't have to rework a bunch of stuff when might later add the second? </font color=blue>
Perhaps one of the JD people will chime in, but with the NH, the only thing I am aware of (I havn't done this yet, but am planning on adding the hyd toplink next spring) is installing the first hyd control so the lever sticks out of the middle slot in the right hand fender. (The 3ph lever is already coming out of the innermost slot.) This would alow you to add the second remote lever without having to move/remove other levers. There might also be an issue with where the quick connects mount, but since these are options on any Boomer, I believe they've already thought of this. In fact, if I remember the pictures correctly, all the tubing for the quick connects are rigid tubing which exit the rear of the tractor somewhere near the ROPS cross bar.
ronjhall
Super Star Member
Gary
The one in Chris’s post has a 10” stroke and 1” pinholes. This is a Cat. 2 link.
The one I put on my 2910 has an 8” stroke and ¾” pins. It is a Cat. 1 link. The overall length of the link I purchased was 20” long. I was able to cut overall length down to just over 18”.
The Cat 2 link may not fit a 2910’s top link and it would always require a bushing to fit the ¾” pin of the 2910.
I would sure give the one Chris bought a try. $99.00 sure beats $189.00. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
With all the inquires manufactures have had from Cat. 1 owners. You would think someone would start building them for Cat. 1 like the one Chris bought.
The one in Chris’s post has a 10” stroke and 1” pinholes. This is a Cat. 2 link.
The one I put on my 2910 has an 8” stroke and ¾” pins. It is a Cat. 1 link. The overall length of the link I purchased was 20” long. I was able to cut overall length down to just over 18”.
The Cat 2 link may not fit a 2910’s top link and it would always require a bushing to fit the ¾” pin of the 2910.
I would sure give the one Chris bought a try. $99.00 sure beats $189.00. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
With all the inquires manufactures have had from Cat. 1 owners. You would think someone would start building them for Cat. 1 like the one Chris bought.
Bird
Rest in Peace
<font color=blue>Would I be correct in assuming I could add a hydraulic top link now and add a hydraulic tilt later?</font color=blue>
Yes.
<font color=blue>If that's correct, is there anything I should look out for when doing the first so I don't have to rework a bunch of stuff when might later add the second?</font color=blue>
Someone more familiar with your tractor model needs to chime in here, but unless you want to always be hooking up and unhooking quick couplers, you need a separate valve for each of the hydraulic links. It's much cheaper to buy a two spool valve to start with than to buy a single spool valve now and later change to either a two spool valve or buy a second single spool valve.
Yes.
<font color=blue>If that's correct, is there anything I should look out for when doing the first so I don't have to rework a bunch of stuff when might later add the second?</font color=blue>
Someone more familiar with your tractor model needs to chime in here, but unless you want to always be hooking up and unhooking quick couplers, you need a separate valve for each of the hydraulic links. It's much cheaper to buy a two spool valve to start with than to buy a single spool valve now and later change to either a two spool valve or buy a second single spool valve.
Gary_in_Indiana
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Thanks, Bird! That makes a lot of sense. If I put on the top link now and decide to go with the tilt later I'll have what I need for it. If I don't do it, I spent a couple extra bucks for no reason but will know I can always upgrade later if I change my mind.
It sounds like maybe I ought to post this in the Deere section. What do you think?
It sounds like maybe I ought to post this in the Deere section. What do you think?
Bird
Rest in Peace
<font color=blue>It sounds like maybe I ought to post this in the Deere section. What do you think?</font color=blue>
I think many of the threads, such as this, could logically fit into more than one forum section, so sometimes you just pick the one you think will be seen by the most people and, personally, I see no problem with it being where it is. I don't really think it's a good idea to post duplicate messages in more than one forum, but sometimes that's done, too.
I think many of the threads, such as this, could logically fit into more than one forum section, so sometimes you just pick the one you think will be seen by the most people and, personally, I see no problem with it being where it is. I don't really think it's a good idea to post duplicate messages in more than one forum, but sometimes that's done, too.
I guess not many people put hydraulic top links on a 2910 the dealer acted like no one has ever asked for that before and had to do a lot of checking and ordering. Well one question was what size top link did I want??????? good question! any ideas on what length I should get on a B2910??
Bird
Rest in Peace
Ideally, you probably want the same length (both collapsed and extended) as the original manual link. However, it can vary a bit. I bought a 20" cylinder with an 8" stroke, but then shortened it a couple of inches. I think Ron did the same. And I used a 2" diameter cylinder. In my opinion, the optimum cylinder for the B2910 would be 2" diameter, 18" collapsed, with an 8" stroke; same as for the B2710.
