Hydraulic Top Link

[Dougster]

Bushings man, bushings. Doug, make one yourself, it's the only way to get it right. Buy the 3" cylinder, buy an aftermarket top link, a little cutting and welding and you have a hydraulic top link that is the right size for your tractor. And it only costs you 6 months worth of meals, didn't you say that you needed to go on a diet? Although the only diet that I can think that you might need to go on would be a real food diet and get off that peanut butter & bread diet, that gets old quick. Oh well, more "food" for thought.

Oh brother... enough with the puns!!! And yes, I need to go on a diet bad! No doubt about that. Just find me a diet that's cheaper than my generic peanut butter and stale bread (from the stale bread store) sandwiches and I'll give it a try!

No making one myself. Not when there is no need. Trust me... I've got enough such things on my "to do" list already. Put it on that list and it will never get done.

Are you serious about a 3" cylinder for a hydraulic top link on a mere Cat I 3-point? Or are you thinking 7520-grade again?

Dougster

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Oh brother... enough with the puns!!! And yes, I need to go on a diet bad! No doubt about that. Just find me a diet that's cheaper than my generic peanut butter and stale bread (from the stale bread store) sandwiches and I'll give it a try!

No making one myself. Not when there is no need. Trust me... I've got enough such things on my "to do" list already. Put it on that list and it will never get done.

Are you serious about a 3" cylinder for a hydraulic top link on a mere Cat I 3-point? Or are you thinking 7520-grade again?

Dougster

Yes 3" for your puny Cat I 3ph. Think about it, big massive, no strength problems aaaannnd takes more fluid to move = easier to adjust. Trust me, cost difference is minimal and the end product is superior. I have already thought all this stuff out for whenever I can finagle getting the 40 horse that I want.

As far as time to get it done, well how bad do you want it? It should take what about an hour, maybe 2? Now none of this applies if you are not doing the work yourself or can get it done at no charge.

Just my opinion, but DO NOT get anything smaller than 2", you will be sorry with anything smaller for your tractor.

 

[civesnedfield]

Oh brother... enough with the puns!!! And yes, I need to go on a diet bad! No doubt about that. Just find me a diet that's cheaper than my generic peanut butter and stale bread (from the stale bread store) sandwiches and I'll give it a try!

No making one myself. Not when there is no need. Trust me... I've got enough such things on my "to do" list already. Put it on that list and it will never get done.

Are you serious about a 3" cylinder for a hydraulic top link on a mere Cat I 3-point? Or are you thinking 7520-grade again?

Dougster

Dougster,
Forget about food. What is my Motto??????

 

[Dougster]

Yes 3" for your puny Cat I 3ph. Think about it, big massive, no strength problems aaaannnd takes more fluid to move = easier to adjust. Trust me, cost difference is minimal and the end product is superior. I have already thought all this stuff out for whenever I can finagle getting the 40 horse that I want. As far as time to get it done, well how bad do you want it? It should take what about an hour, maybe 2? Now none of this applies if you are not doing the work yourself or can get it done at no charge. Just my opinion, but DO NOT get anything smaller than 2", you will be sorry with anything smaller for your tractor.

Now Brain... you are talking a cylinder than can exert nearly 18,000 lbs (based on 2,500 psig supply). I understand the slower speed/finer control issue, but I still think you're thinking 7520-grade!!!

Refresher: I bought a stick welder (Lincoln Tombstone) a while back based on the recommendation of one of the GF's welder brothers, but never ran the 230V wiring out to the garage nor took the classes. Meanwhile, the other welder brother... and now both brothers... are saying I need to sell the Tombstone and buy a $600+ wire-fed MIG welder for the kind of welding I see myself doing. Unfortunately, that little "upgrade" is not exactly in the budget right now and I would be stuck paying a machine shop for any custom-made hydraulic top link. Ain't gonna happen!

As I mentioned way up front in this thread, a hydraulic top link is definitely on my long-term want list... but not really on my immediate/critical needs list.

Dougster

 

[Dougster]

Dougster, Forget about food. What is my Motto??????

Yes, yes... I know: "Live BIG or Die"!!!

Easy for you to say after tonight's Lobsta & Fillet Mignon dinner!!!

Dougster

 

[EZ-HITCH]

So exactly what size would you all suggest? A 3" cylinder, with how much stroke movement? For me this will go on a 4200 Kubota and I can cut up my old top link and weld the ends on the hydraulic.

 

[jdbower]

A 3" cylinder, with how much stroke movement?

If your current toplink is sufficient, measure it closed and measure it open to see what you think you'll need. If that's too long a range, measure it while you've got your favorite implements set up. It will vary a bit based on tractor model, implements, and if you've got a quick hitch. On my JD 2520 I've got a 2" cylinder with an assembled length from 18-26.5" - but it's quite likely that I'll also need the 21-32" model at some point if I get a boxblade and can't get the angle right. I bought pre-assembled.

 

[JerryG]

I have a surplus center cylinder and it doesn't drift much at all. But, a lot of the time the drift is from the parts tolerance stack up in the control valve. I do wish I had the one from Carter but they didn't have the right size when I needed the cylinder. If you do order the cylinder for SC, have them ship you a couple of their spring bushings. You can drive them in or use a bolt and a couple of washer to pull them in. They stay put unlike the bushing that are sold at TSC etc.
I don't think that you will need one any larger than a 2". I have had mine several months and the 2" has always been fine.
Surplus Center Item Detail

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Now Brain... you are talking a cylinder than can exert nearly 18,000 lbs (based on 2,500 psig supply). I understand the slower speed/finer control issue, but I still think you're thinking 7520-grade!!!

Refresher: I bought a stick welder (Lincoln Tombstone) a while back based on the recommendation of one of the GF's welder brothers, but never ran the 230V wiring out to the garage nor took the classes. Meanwhile, the other welder brother... and now both brothers... are saying I need to sell the Tombstone and buy a $600+ wire-fed MIG welder for the kind of welding I see myself doing. Unfortunately, that little "upgrade" is not exactly in the budget right now and I would be stuck paying a machine shop for any custom-made hydraulic top link. Ain't gonna happen!

As I mentioned way up front in this thread, a hydraulic top link is definitely on my long-term want list... but not really on my immediate/critical needs list.

Dougster

A couple more things, I have a hydraulic laying around with one end of it that will work for you, send me the implement end and we will put it on and send it back to you.

What kind of MIG are you getting for $600? Are you sure that thing is a real welder? The Lincoln that I just bought was $2000.

Let me know.

 

[Dougster]

A couple more things, I have a hydraulic laying around with one end of it that will work for you, send me the implement end and we will put it on and send it back to you. What kind of MIG are you getting for $600? Are you sure that thing is a real welder? The Lincoln that I just bought was $2000. Let me know.

Hi Brian - Thanks very much for the very generous offer, but I'm gonna pass for now. I really wouldn't feel right about it without paying for it (which I'm not quite in a great position to do right now).

Can't find the exact Lincoln model I looked at, but I believe this one is very close:

Lincoln Electric Weld-Pak 175HD, 208/230-volt Wire Feeder Welder, Comes With Everything Needed To Weld Mild Steel - K2338-1 at The Home Depot

You seriously rich left coast folks can spend two grand on a welder and not even give it a second thought! I'll be very hard pressed to come up with $600. Maybe my GF will get it for me as a Christmas present!

Dougster

 

[skipmarcy]

So exactly what size would you all suggest? A 3" cylinder, with how much stroke movement? For me this will go on a 4200 Kubota and I can cut up my old top link and weld the ends on the hydraulic.

As I had stated in my other reply, mine is a 2 1/2" bore and does just dandy with my heavy duty use (abuse?) but it is the rod diameter that is more important. A 2" bore or even a 1" bore would be plenty of hydraulics as long as the rod is strong enough not to bend or break, especially if you use a long stroke cylinder and operate it extended out alot. My cylinder has an 8" stroke and I'll bet I don't have it extended out much over 5" 95% of the time for all implements. Only on rare occasion have I fully extended it with the boxblade to get some real serious tilt for various reasons and this is where a smaller rod would be likely to bend or break. The only implement I have that I can't use this toplink on is my MF 2 bottom plow - It requires a much longer toplink and I don't plow enough to warrant making another cylinder up just for it.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Hi Brian - Thanks very much for the very generous offer, but I'm gonna pass for now. I really wouldn't feel right about it without paying for it (which I'm not quite in a great position to do right now).

!

Dougster

Please keep in mind that the offer stands for as long as the hydraulic is available. Might be a week or two, could be years, hard to tell.

 

[Dougster]

Please keep in mind that the offer stands for as long as the hydraulic is available. Might be a week or two, could be years, hard to tell.

Now I might need another smaller favor from you someday... like some leftover blue paint maybe???... but no way I'm gonna accept outright charity on anything like this when it comes to my business. It's just not right.

I do appreciate your serious generosity, but I'll pass on this one.

Dougster

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Now I might need another smaller favor from you someday... like some leftover blue paint maybe???... but no way I'm gonna accept outright charity on anything like this when it comes to my business. It's just not right.

I do appreciate your serious generosity, but I'll pass on this one.

Dougster

Ok, you win this one.

 

[Dougster]

Ok, you win this one.

Tell you what: I'll take two jars of peanut butter (one smooth, one crunchy) if you really feel like giving away part of your fortune!

Dougster

 

[Compact1]

Received my hydraulic top link from Carter and Carter. It was easy to install and works like a dream. I don't know why I waited so long to make this investment.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Received my hydraulic top link from Carter and Carter. It was easy to install and works like a dream. I don't know why I waited so long to make this investment.

Next get the side link and you will be all set.

 

[3RRL]

Next get the side link and you will be all set.

Yeah, I agree with Brian.
Better yet, get two hydraulic side links (although one will do). Once you find how easy your new Top link makes life, you'll want the same ease of adjustment for the side links. Not just for working the implements, but it makes hook up much easier too.

 

[Dougster]

Yeah, I agree with Brian. Better yet, get two hydraulic side links (although one will do). Once you find how easy your new Top link makes life, you'll want the same ease of adjustment for the side links. Not just for working the implements, but it makes hook up much easier too.

It never really ends... does it? There is always one thing more to buy!

Dougster

 

[curly]

This is prolly a stupid question because I don't even have my tractor yet (tomorrow, unless some other craziness happens). But how are the top links controlled? Is there a lever back there somewhere. The blue pic (Compact1) above is the one I'm looking at.

Don't get me wrong, I know I need one, and a couple of side ones too, and at least one each of all implements made