Hydraulic pipes

[pycoed]

Right, I've fixed a double spool valve I had surplus behind the seat of my 1820, read up all about the need to insert a plug in the Yanmar hydraulic distributor & the need for a power-beyond sleeve in the spool valve, so I'm all set to plumb her up.
What size hydraulic pipes do others use? My main concern is the return to tank (connection on side of transmission) which will reduce the already limited footspace on the left. Pressure & return I think can be tucked under the seat & out of harms way, but the tank return will be in the footspace - I'm thinking an M16 banjo to 3/8 hose will be the most compact option both at tank & spool valve end but I did wonder if 1/4" would handle the flow (which isn't great - about 3 gall/min AFAIK). Could this cause problems with aerating the oil which will have to return above oil level it seems? Am I overthinking this - after all it will get only occasional use - it won't be running a log splitter 24/7?
I've used an online hose builder from Flowfit here in UK for all the pipes needed to fit a joystick spool to my Zetor, but that was easy - all 1/2BSP connections.

 

[jfsawatzky]

I’m no expert and am learning for a project myself but as I understand hydraulics even if you are not using this specific valve the power beyond and return will have constant flow

 

[ptsg]

I wouldn't go less than 3/8" for the return. 1/2" is overkill for this size of tractor.

Flowfit is great, I used it all the time before Brexit. All my hoses and fittings for my homemade loader came from them. Great prices and they used to have free shipping above a certain amount spent.

 

[winston1]

Tank return has flow only when valve is actuated. Other times the flow goes thru the power beyond hose and thru the 3 point. Having said that, yes there is hydraulic flow any time the engine is turning.

 

[careyo63]

Use a Aux. pump and tank. The way my Ford setup and it's simple. Cheap also! I can even Remove, Replace the Whole FEL. in a matter of minutes. And then the Tractor is Back Org. Fully intact. Handful of bolts and the Hyd. pumps Dr, shaft is ran off the Crank pully! Yesterday's Tractor, Stiener has the setup. Doing it that way for over 60 yrs. I rebuilt the ford just for the loader. 48Hp. and know what it can do, Had the Yanmar 24HP, No FEL. Had it 16Yrs. My lawn mower and Tiller. I had to replace both the Bearings Seen how light duty the front end of it is! And a huge Scar on one of the Axels Sure did. Rice Patty tractors!!

 

[pycoed]

Just found that the plug on the left side of the gearbox is actually 3/8BSP! Checked the output & return on the hydraulic distributor & they are both 3/8BSP too! That'll make connections much easier since I have lots of 3/8BSP fittings in my collection. I hope the internal plug fitting is actually 1/4NPT 18 as stated in the manual excerpts I found online, since I've just ordered one

 

[pycoed]

Just completed connections (see below) - all works fine with one proviso: I had 4 new 1/4 BSP QD connectors in the workshop- can't remember where I got them from - probably in a box of stuff from a local auction... Anyway,when I connected a test cylinder to these, on using the spool I could hear the relief squealing in either direction. Connected the cylinder directly to the spool & all worked as expected.

On checking the 1/4 QDs I found they would barely pass diesel through them when connected, so obviously faulty.

I'll order some 3/8BSP QDs, but they'll be a tight fit onto the spool - I want to use them direct to the spool to minimise connections etc.
I just intend to use the one spool for now on a small logsplitter I built a few years back. I'll check whether the tractor will handle a rear loader I have that also uses only one spool, but I think this little girl will struggle with that.
The pressure hose to the spool is just a bit too long, hence the routing with bends under the seat. It would sit better routed like the PBY hose, I'll order a shorter one alongside the QD's

 

[ponytug]

Your design and fabrication turned out very well, I think.

Do you know the hydraulic HP (flow x pressure) available on your machine? It might give you some insights on the log splitter cycle.

(I love your shop; lots of items to be out to use and seemingly well organized.)

All the best,

Peter

 

[pycoed]

No idea of the flow /pressure - the ram is one of the bucket curl rams from a loader & I currently use it on the hydraulics of a Cushman Turf Truckster which has a 3 cyl Kubota engine & a hydraulic pump driven by a single A belt! It works fine for speed on the Cushman, power not so impressive, but most of my logs come from hedge-laying (I don't think that's a thing over the pond, but Google it to see - some is VERY impressive- mine not so!). It would be rare for me to be splitting much thicker than 15" & most would be around 6" so this little splitter works well enough, especially when I cross-cut sensibly around awkward crutches etc.

 

[ponytug]

No idea of the flow /pressure - the ram is one of the bucket curl rams from a loader & I currently use it on the hydraulics of a Cushman Turf Truckster which has a 3 cyl Kubota engine & a hydraulic pump driven by a single A belt! It works fine for speed on the Cushman, power not so impressive, but most of my logs come from hedge-laying (I don't think that's a thing over the pond, but Google it to see - some is VERY impressive- mine not so!). It would be rare for me to be splitting much thicker than 15" & most would be around 6" so this little splitter works well enough, especially when I cross-cut sensibly around awkward crutches etc.
View attachment 927929

I know hedge laying rather well. However, the climate here, where it is there is almost no rain for six months from April to October isn't exactly favorable, and with a total rainfall in the
250-300mm range, so hedges don't exactly thrive. Other parts of California are more favorable. I think you live in an ideal local for hedge laying, and yes, I know it is a skill, like dry wall fencing.

All the best,

Peter