Hydraulic hose repair kit

[NEPA guy]

I have the LA534 Loader on the B2650. Just at the end of the season I noticed a leak just by the cylinder (see first photo.) I couldn't tell where it was coming from. Now that I'm preparing to reattach the FEL, I thought I would drop the pin on the cylinder and take a closer look so I could fix it.

When I dropped the cylinder the hose was twisted up and I can see a crack in it. I'm not sure if it's leaking from the crack or where I screw it in the cylinder. I assume to replace the hose and put it back in so its not twisted so much.

I've never worked on a hydraulic hose before and wanted to ask if there is a tool kit with various hose sizes that you can recommend for this machine, seeing that I'll be doing this on the regular and dont have the time or the resources to drive it an hour away to the nearest dealer.

I would appreciate any feedback.

Thanks

 

[Peter 315]

No hydraulic shop to have hoses made , The end on the piston if you loosen the fitting you can straighten the hose out and use two wrenches one to hold the hose and the other to tighten the fitting

 

[Dan33Klein]

Can you take the hose off and take it to a local hydraulic shop? Even Napa makes some hoses. If the hose itself is leaking there is no fix.

 

[NEPA guy]

I took the hose off and found a shop that will do it for me right away. I'm jumping in my truck now.

There isn't a kit available so we can fix stuff like this in the field?

I also noticed that there's no teflon tape in the groves on each end. Is that normal?
I thought we have to use something to bind it up so it doesn't leak. (Someone told me not to use tape and to use the hydraulic liquid seal stuff.)

 

[Peter 315]

You can use tape just start it two threads back from the end, You don't need tape on the swivel end

 

[Fallon]

Unless it's a really long hose you are far better off replacing the whole thing instead of trying to splice in a new section. By far. It's best to keep the number of fittings down as they are more likely to leak. And if you splice in a patched section on a busted hose, it's already proven to be weak. So you should replace the whole hose.

NPT fittings seal on the threads. Teflon tape & pipe dope lubricate the threads & fill the gaps between the threads. Just make sure you dont let any get past the threads into the hose where it will contaminate the oil.

Other fittings like JIC or ORB seal on machined surfaces or O-rings. They don't need tape or dope at all. They are pretty much better than NPT except more expensive.

 

[Jay4200]

For future reference, generic hoses that are 1/10th the cost of local. Buy whatever ends you need and screw them on.
Hydraulic Hose Assemblies | Hydraulic Hose and Hose Assemblies | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

 

[NEPA guy]

Just got back from the hydraulic shop. The new hose is with the green stripe. When I asked the shop guy if it was OK that this one's a little fatter because I had to run it in the groove of the FEL, he looked at me kinda funny. I guess it was a stupid question. lol.

Being that the cylinder is somewhat empty, I'm curious how once I plug it back in to the tractor and get it running, how does it deal with big pockets of air. Is there a breather or something that gets rid of the air so the system is pressurized?

Thanks for the advice!

 

[Peter 315]

Just move the loader up and down , open and close the bucket it will bleed itself ...

 

[NEPA guy]

Thanks!


Should I start a new thread?

I just noticed a leak on the floor. I thought it was just from taking the hoses on and off. I wiped everything down best i could and revved it up to 2000 rpm's. I can see the blue male end leaking from the center pin piece. Is this something I can order and simply screw on and off myself or should I have the shop do it? It's still under warranty. I wonder if it has anything to do with the hydraulic cylinder breaking a few days ago, when I turned the blade to the left and it popped. Is left blue?

Please advise.

 

[Fallon]

Thanks!


Should I start a new thread?

I just noticed a leak on the floor. I thought it was just from taking the hoses on and off. I wiped everything down best i could and revved it up to 2000 rpm's. I can see the blue male end leaking from the center pin piece. Is this something I can order and simply screw on and off myself or should I have the shop do it? It's still under warranty. I wonder if it has anything to do with the hydraulic cylinder breaking a few days ago, when I turned the blade to the left and it popped. Is left blue?

Please advise.

If those QDs were connected when things popped those sealing surfaces would be not touching at all. It could be a result of the repairs if you got any pipe tape, dope or other grit in there. It would prevent the poppet in the QD from sealing properly if it got lodged in the wrong spot. As likely to be a cheap or defective QD though. They are $30 or so to replace, but your dealer should take care of things under warranty.

It's not as easy as just unscrewing. You have to find 1, maybe 2 wrenches, possibly some pipe dope. Then there is the whole grunting while using the wrenches. Were talking at least 5 minutes of work, more if you properly apply beer at appropriate intervals. It might even be half as hard as replacing the hose & use almost the same techniques.

When I had a hose weep a little bit I sent my dealer a photo. Picked up the new hose from him later & installed it myself. Was far easier than hauling the machine in for them to do it. Had to later take the defective hose back to complete the warranty stuff, which was annoying, but not to bad.

Revving the engine up should have no effect on that QD leaking, unless the control valve is leaking a LOT. Maybe the extra vibrations or something, but there should be no real pressure on that QD unless you as actuate the valve.

 

[escavader]

Yes you can buy reusable fittings to repair in the field you wind in.i keep a few of all sizes around home.providing you have enough length to cut off bad end and it's still long enough.
that said I'd rather just go have a hose made easier.

 

[NEPA guy]

If those QDs were connected when things popped those sealing surfaces would be not touching at all. It could be a result of the repairs if you got any pipe tape, dope or other grit in there. It would prevent the poppet in the QD from sealing properly if it got lodged in the wrong spot. As likely to be a cheap or defective QD though. They are $30 or so to replace, but your dealer should take care of things under warranty.

It's not as easy as just unscrewing. You have to find 1, maybe 2 wrenches, possibly some pipe dope. Then there is the whole grunting while using the wrenches. Were talking at least 5 minutes of work, more if you properly apply beer at appropriate intervals. It might even be half as hard as replacing the hose & use almost the same techniques.

When I had a hose weep a little bit I sent my dealer a photo. Picked up the new hose from him later & installed it myself. Was far easier than hauling the machine in for them to do it. Had to later take the defective hose back to complete the warranty stuff, which was annoying, but not to bad.

Revving the engine up should have no effect on that QD leaking, unless the control valve is leaking a LOT. Maybe the extra vibrations or something, but there should be no real pressure on that QD unless you as actuate the valve.

Even if it costs me a few dollars, it's much easier to do it myself. The dealer is 35 miles away and usually busy and it will take days if not weeks to get my tractor back. I try to avoid them unless its something major.

I found the QD nipple on the messicks website I like to use for parts. I navigated and found that the part number, 7J612-66222, was replaced by 7J612-66223, which in turn is now replaced by K2581-66220. Luckily it's only $8 down from $24. The parts staff didn't know why it was replaced. I was worried it was a defective part. Guy said it happens, different manufacturer, whatever.

I hope it's just a piece of foreign matter or something that just got stuck preventing the poppet from reseating. I've never done any other hose repairs, so it can't be something I've done. Maybe it's from a piece of tape that got in the system from whoever assembled it to begin with. I'm hoping it's just a defective nipple and should be a relatively easy fix.

When the tractor is running the nipple leaks, and continues to do so unless I shut the machine down. When I revved it up maybe you're right and it's the vibrations causing it to seem to leak more. If what you say is true then it shouldn't leak period unless I actuate the valve? I wonder if there is another mechanism besides the nipple that could be faulty?

 

[BHD]

those are jic fittings (a flare fitting) if any thing a touch of oil on the thread but that is not even necessary, all the threads do is tighten the flare up as that is the sealing surface.

 

[kthompson]

Often a very tiny piece of trash causes a leak like you have. With tractor off and pressure broken, push the center in and wipe it and you may get it clean. Put rag over the fitting, push in with a tool such as socket extension to have a flat face to push with and let the rag control any spray if any pressure remains and to wipe the fitting. Try to be in habit of wiping those fittings clean before connecting them.

Note some companies use a more expensive push to connect and pull to disconnect then the female fitting you must pull the outside sleeve back to connect or disconnect, those are costly.

 

[NEPA guy]

Often a very tiny piece of trash causes a leak like you have. With tractor off and pressure broken, push the center in and wipe it and you may get it clean. Put rag over the fitting, push in with a tool such as socket extension to have a flat face to push with and let the rag control any spray if any pressure remains and to wipe the fitting. Try to be in habit of wiping those fittings clean before connecting them.

Note some companies use a more expensive push to connect and pull to disconnect then the female fitting you must pull the outside sleeve back to connect or disconnect, those are costly.

When you say "pressure broken" wiggle the handle back and forth to relieve the pressure? I'll try that in a bit.

Thanks to everyone who took the time to respond. First time owning a tractor, even though I've got 200 hours on it, there seems to be a lot more to learn.

 

[NEPA guy]

I used the flat end of a chisel to push the nipple in while the engine was off. Still leaking. I turned the engine on and pushed the lever to the right , pushing more fluid out. I used the chisel again and more fluid leaked out, no great pressures to deal with. Still leaking. I hope by swapping out to the new nipple it will hold. I'll post my results after it comes in sometime tues or Wednesday.

 

[Kb7ivi-1]

any pipe tape, dope or other grit in there. It would prevent the poppet in the QD from sealing properly if it got lodged in the wrong spot. As likely to be a cheap or defective QD though. They are $30 or so to replace, but your dealer should take care of things under warranty.

It's not as easy as just unscrewing. You have to find 1, maybe 2 wrenches, possibly some pipe dope. Then there is the whole grunting while using the wrenches. Were talking at least 5 minutes of work, more if you properly apply beer at

 

[grsthegreat]

ive never repaired a damaged hose, unless break is right at the end and the hose has extra length. But i rarely find this.\.

luckily for me there are several shops in town, about 25 minutes away but i always have other things needed in town. I just had a friend blow the hydraulic hose in his dump trailer. it caused a flash of fire from the battery compartment, and alot of smoke. he thought the trailer was burning down. I never knew hydraulic fluid was flammable....who knew. the idiot that built the trailer (only 2 months old Texas Pride unit) let the hydraulic hoses long and they rubbed a hole from contacting the battery post. I kinda wonder why my friend never noticed it as he recharges the batteries every night, but thats life.

 

[nyone]

Dont use teflon tape on hydraulic hoses. It can get trapped in valves and screens in the system. Locktite makes a paste that is rated for this but if you have JIC hoses or almost any piece of equipment made in the last 2 decades you prob dont need any thread sealer.

As to the hydraulic hose issue. Since you alreaty blew one and that machine has 2 of those hoses...buy a second hose. Inspect hoses regularly and possibly even stock an point A to point B hose. Basicly a long hose that can be used in place of any hose on the machine, dosnt need to be routed properly just needs to work.