Husqvarna vs. Stihl

[tractorshopper]

Not to hijack, but with the discussion of chains, does anyone have experience with the more expensive carbide type chains? Thoughts if so? I suck at sharpening and am thinking of buying one like fire depts have for demo. Supposed to cut through anything and last a long long time. Then you can send back for sharpening.

 

[Industrial Toys]

It might cut through anything, but bear in mind, it might not last as long as you think. It's always different when the tax payer is footing the bill. Cost is no object!

Apparently the rep for my Oregon Cordless saw, cuts a cinder block, then uses the on-saw sharpening system (that takes a mere few seconds) and then demonstrates how the chain again cuts wood.

 

[xyz123]

I did that with the oregon power now that oregon sent me to test out when they were new. Cut a brick part way used the on saw sharpener and was able to finish the cut. Couldnt do that with a regular 3/8LP chain

Good little homeowner deal with saws that run Picco 3/8LP.



I would look into carbide chain for a FD = TS

I just bought a ole FD saw that they couldnt use anymore due to the brake not working. Just had normal chain on it too.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Not to hijack, but with the discussion of chains, does anyone have experience with the more expensive carbide type chains? Thoughts if so? I suck at sharpening and am thinking of buying one like fire depts have for demo. Supposed to cut through anything and last a long long time. Then you can send back for sharpening.

If you suck at sharpening, maybe consider a half decent quality sharpener and you can then buy 3 Forester or Oregon chains to a standard single Stihl chain, and let the machine sharpen the chains. That removes you and your skills from the equation.

I run all Forester bars and chains, but I am good and quick at sharpening chains on the bar. I carry 3 chains in the case, but really only swap a chain out if I goober it up by hitting something that anyone but a goober would avoid.

forestershop.com

 

[ArlyA]

Since we work in the dirt and dull chains rather quickly, we asked the same qestion to our local chain supplier. There response was something to the effect "we charge XYZ to sharpen carbide chains.. We advise staying with standard ones" so we didn't get one. The fire department use them to cut through walls embedded with nails and they're not going to change out a dull chain while going that.

Not to hijack, but with the discussion of chains, does anyone have experience with the more expensive carbide type chains? Thoughts if so? I suck at sharpening and am thinking of buying one like fire depts have for demo. Supposed to cut through anything and last a long long time. Then you can send back for sharpening.

 

[tractorshopper]

I was looking at the Rapco chains. IIRC, they charge like $15 to resharpen. I pay $10 around here. I try to sharpen them with hand file and the electric tool, but they never seem to last very long like a brand new chain. I've heard of people getting 5-20 times more cuts out of the carbide chain so was thinking that may well be worth it if true. I just don't want to drop a hundo and find out it's not much better.

I'm no pro and don't run saws enough to really get to expert status. I use them to clean up, trim, or occasionally fell a tree. Seems I spend more on new chains and trips to the store that would make me believe it would be nice to have a long lasting chain on each saw that is ready for when needed each time and just have to send off once in a while for sharpening by the maker.

Some testimonials on their site say they have cut 20 cords of wood on one sharpening. That may be a lifetime of cuts for me.

 

[tractorshopper]

Oh, and on topic, I really like my Echo saw. Best saw I have owned. It's a 14". My 20" is an old Poulan Pro. When it dies, I'll probably buy another Echo or Stihl or Husky. Am watching this thread for that experience as well.

 

[Jchonline]

I have both, cut 50 or so trees a year. I dont have a preference. They are both great saws. Currently my choice is a Stihl MS 362 for the felling/bucking and a MS 241 for the limbing. For limbing the lighter the better...I have been considering an electric for this as well. Have 2 Huskys and still use them also.

 

[John_Mc]

I've only used a carbide chain a couple of times. It was brand new, so should have been sharp. It was very slow compared to my freshly sharpened steel chain. I just don't have the patience to use one. Plus, if you hit a rock, the chain is still trashed, only now you can't use it until you take it somewhere to get sharpened

It's not hard to learn how to sharpen a chain well by hand. In fact, it's not hard to learn to sharpen one better than some chains cut new out of the box. The key to getting good, consistent results is to use a file guide. I've met dozens of people who think they can sharpen very well with just a bare round file. I've met only two who actually can do what they think they can do.

One of the better saw chain sharpening instructional videos I've found is by one of the guys who teaches the Game of Logging classes here in Vermont: The Art & Science of Sawchain Sharpening It goes over a couple of the guides available, and how to use them. The guides are inexpensive, and easy to use. The video is not free, but it's well worth the $6.99 download fee if you want to learn how to sharpen chains correctly.

 

[goeduck]

I have both, cut 50 or so trees a year. I dont have a preference. They are both great saws. Currently my choice is a Stihl MS 362 for the felling/bucking and a MS 241 for the limbing. For limbing the lighter the better...I have been considering an electric for this as well. Have 2 Huskys and still use them also.

The MS 241 is a rare bird, it gets good reviews but does not seem too popular. I have been eying it for limbing as you use it for. How do you like it? What size bar do you have on it? What saw chain?