How would you fix this improperly installed deck?

[4570Man]

This is really only for the sake of discussion because I wasn’t hired to fix this only to replace the joist and boards on top. The original deck builder cut through the metal on the building to bolt the deck to the building. This left the metal open to leaking. Other than tearing the whole thing down and patching the hole with more metal or replacing that whole side is there any other options? Maybe unbolting it and supporting with temporary post and hoping the other post have enough flex to get some flashing behind it. The other post are 6x6 and they have a concrete slab poured around them with an unknown depth in the ground.

 

[two_bit_score]

The owner should be suing the original installer.

I wouldn稚 touch it with a 10 pole unless a signed disclaimer and indemnification agreement from the owner. I would have a good lawyer draw it up right.

You however, may do whatever you think is best.

TBS

 

[4570Man]

The owner should be suing the original installer.

Don’t touch it with a 10’ pole unless you get a signed disclaimer and indemnification agreement from the owner. Have a good lawyer draw it up right.

TBS

There was no original installer. He bought the place about a year ago and the previous owner built the garage and the deck himself. If he’s that upset which he’s not he could sell the place and turn a nice profit. Real estate is booming right now. The owner is aware of the problem and pointed it out before I noticed. The door installation on top of the deck is equally bad if not worse. The building is about 10 years old. I can’t believe how little water damage there is because if it. This whole deck is riddled with flaws and tearing down and starting over is probably the better plan but I doubt that’s happening. The original builders day job isn’t a builder and he should probably keep it that way.

 

[HCJtractor]

Wow. What idiot did that? Without seeing the whole thing, I like adding new posts under the building side, left permanently. Maybe the whole frame could be temporarily supported, then unattached from the concreted posts, then moved outward 1.5” to clear the ribs. Of course bring very careful not to drop the whole thing. But if you have to remove the decking anyway, it’s lighter without decking so that would help. OThen new metal siding could be slid under the upper siding to cover the hole, or the whole lower panel replaced. It could still be reattached to the building but with spacer shims of treated wood between the ribs and bolts or lags fixed to the building framing, sealed with some silicone where the siding is penetrated. Then the outer joists reattached to the outer posts but shimmed the same 1.5”. Then flexing the posts is not required and everything stays plumb and square assuming it was originally.

 

[4570Man]

Wow. What idiot did that? Without seeing the whole thing, I like adding new posts under the building side, left permanently. Maybe the whole frame could be temporarily supported, then unattached from the concreted posts, then moved outward 1.5” to clear the ribs. Of course bring very careful not to drop the whole thing. But if you have to remove the decking anyway, it’s lighter without decking so that would help. OThen new metal siding could be slid under the upper siding to cover the hole, or the whole lower panel replaced. It could still be reattached to the building but with spacer shims of treated wood between the ribs and bolts or lags fixed to the building framing, sealed with some silicone where the siding is penetrated. Then the outer joists reattached to the outer posts but shimmed the same 1.5”. Then flexing the posts is not required and everything stays plumb and square assuming it was originally.

Well I know the guy that built it originally. He’s not an idiot but obviously not a builder. I’d have still thought he’d know better than that. Maybe there was adult beverages involved. I agree now would definitely be the time to fix it not after I get done re decking the deck.

 

[HCJtractor]

You could certainly try to temporarily support it ( put in some temporary diagonal supports also) then detach it. You really only need 2” max of movement to be able to slide new panels underneath. You may be able to use a come-along or ratchet strap to pull it away enough for a repair. But splitting a post or framing member, or the concrete, would be a risk.

 

[HCJtractor]

Post some more photos if you have any. But I doubt it would be that hard to repair, assuming the siding is available

 

[4570Man]

The picture in the first post is the only one I currently have. The building was built about 10 years after and there’s no extra material. Rather or not it’s available is another question.

 

[Barnbuilder]

They make standoffs to keep the ledger away from siding for drainage. If you could support it, put new metal behind it and put spacers between the two with bolts would work.

 

[HCJtractor]

You can probably find the same profile metal. But if not, any flat sheet metal would work to make it water tight. It won’t look as good but it doesn’t show that much anyway. The larger gaps that critters could get in could be filled with caulk or foam, maybe even from the inside if it’s exposed.

 

[Diggin It]

The original deck builder cut through the metal on the building to bolt the deck to the building. This left the metal open to leaking.

I don't see a problem with cutting the metal to mount to the structure IF everything is resealed to prevent leakage. I can't see enough detail to tell much further though.

Decks board not trimmed off even is somewhat telling though.

Can then place even be sold like that? Don't realtors and code inspectors balk at the risk?

 

[4570Man]

I don't see a problem with cutting the metal to mount to the structure IF everything is resealed to prevent leakage. I can't see enough detail to tell much further though.

Decks board not trimmed off even is somewhat telling though.

Can then place even be sold like that? Don't realtors and code inspectors balk at the risk?

It was dumb to ever cut it. How are you going to re seal it? You’re dealing with 2” gaps and your dealing with wood that expands and contracts and later rots. Almost everyone pays a home inspector. Either the home inspector missed this or the buyers weren’t concerned. The realtors can’t talk about such matters. It’s a loose loose situation for them. That’s the home inspectors job. I’ve seen house sold with far bigger problems. This is a $500 or less problem and not really a big deal. The problem with selling stuff with major problems is it’s hard to get financing on such structures.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I've seen "reputable" barn builders do similar thing when adding onto a metal sided building.

When you pull the deck board against the building, install flashing from under the bottom of the upper siding.

 

[Diggin It]

It was dumb to ever cut it. How are you going to re seal it? You’re dealing with 2” gaps and your dealing with wood that expands and contracts and later rots.

You caulk it, flash it with metal or aluminum, then cover it with something like this (available at Lowes or my web order from a few places):

Peel & Seal — MFM Building Products Corp.


Once this stuff is stuck, it does not come loose, even if you want it to. I've tried to get it off. It bonds with the material it's applied to and 'becomes one'.

You're asking how we would repair it. I'd still use that method to stop future water seepage. I can't tell from your one picture how much wood damage there is or what needs to be replaced. Can you get to the back side of the metal wall to see what needs to be done there?

 

[Diggin It]

I've seen "reputable" barn builders do similar thing when adding onto a metal sided building.

When you pull the deck board against the building, install flashing from under the bottom of the upper siding.

Even if you don't cut the metal away to get a flush board to board surface, you still have to drill the metal to use lags or other fasteners. That still allows potential water leakage if not re-sealed properly.

 

[s219]

Without more pictures my reaction would be to fix it with flashing. If you have a brake, or can rent one, that would let you custom bend it to be he best possible solution.

 

[gsganzer]

Short of removing the metal to install some type of flashing that makes the transition, I'm not sure you have many options.

If you look at Muellers trim catalog, there're a number of transition trim pieces. One's called a die formed transition and they make them in a variety of panel profiles. Although it's not really made for it, look at RPN-1406. This trim piece is actually made to go behind a wall panel and transition onto the top of a overhang roof R-panel without the need for foam closures. Maybe you could turn it upside down and apply it to the face of your R-panel wall (use a couple lines of seam tape and caulking between them for the seal). Essentially you'd be applying external flashing. Just a thought.


The best answer though, is to remove the metal and install flashing.

 

[Egon]

The metal style should still be available. So, for the bottom, felexible caulking and metal sheeting cut to fit around joists. The top, no picture so ???

 

[PILOON]

Cut the siding with a metal blade about 2" above the decking and then slide a formed flashing angle behind the siding and screw the combination in place.
Seal any gaps with poly caulking and you should be good to go.

 

[EddieWalker]

This is really only for the sake of discussion because I wasn’t hired to fix this only to replace the joist and boards on top. The original deck builder cut through the metal on the building to bolt the deck to the building. This left the metal open to leaking. Other than tearing the whole thing down and patching the hole with more metal or replacing that whole side is there any other options? Maybe unbolting it and supporting with temporary post and hoping the other post have enough flex to get some flashing behind it. The other post are 6x6 and they have a concrete slab poured around them with an unknown depth in the ground.View attachment 585152

Cutting the metal siding was the smart thing to do so you can get your ledger board properly attached to the building. Was it attached properly? One of the biggest reasons for a deck failing is the ledger board. I like that he used joist hangers. I've seen a lot of decks built on this site that didn't do this.

Your picture shows the wrong side of the deck to be addressing. What was done on top of the deck? The metal siding looks like it will unscrew so that you can get flashing under it and on "TOP" of the deck. Follow the path of water and stop it from getting onto the ledger board.

I see something silvery in the gap between the bottom of the ledger board and the siding. What is that?

When I look at a deck, the first thing that I look for is diagonal bracing when it's more then a few feet off of the ground. This cuts down dramatically on how much movement you have on the deck. Armatures forget this all the time. Next thing that I want to see are beams that the joists are resting on top of. Another big armature failure is not using beams and framing up all the joists to support the load. Then attaching them with nails. Nails and screws are never to be used for supporting a load, they are just used to attach lumber and hold it in place, not support a load. I can go on and on.

Again, what does the top of the decking look like next to the building?