Tires How wide to set rear tires.

[N80]

What are the pros and cons of setting your rear tires to a wider width? I have a Kubota L4400 and you can get them significantly wider by flipping the inner rim around.

My property is hilly and after reading a few of the roll-over posts I began wondering if I should do this. What will I lose in this transaction? Obviously the tractor will be wider and this will affect manueverability on narrow trails. I'm also assuming that this puts more stress on the axle. What else?

To get them at their widest would require remounting the tires on the outer rim (since the tires are directional). I don't think I'd go to that much trouble. I plan on adding liquid ballast to the tires so this would be a good time to do it since I'll have to jack up the tractor anyway.

Any thoughts or opinions appreciated.

 

[beenthere]

Axles should be ok, and just put the right one on the left, and visa-versa with the other. Then the directional lugs will be right and the width will be wider as you want. Easy to do. Just awkward to to jack up (use blocks and be real careful).

 

[KubotaSteve]

Also if you set the tires to the widest width and you have have Ag tires you may subject yourself to additional soil tests if you spin as the tires may be outside the fenders. Of course with the tires wider, it may not throw mud in on you, but even if it does it will still be fun. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Like the Pontiac Grand Prix commercial says "Wider is Better".

 

[daTeacha]

General rule is to set them as wide as you can and still fit where you need to go. See the thread about tipping your trctor.

 

[stevenf]

I'm sure you've considered this but I'll throw it out just in case, when you bought your implements ie loader, box blade etc you probably bought based on the delivery setup width would increasing your tire width be outside of these implements as that would be a major consideration for most.
Steve

 

[N80]

Its a Kubota L4400 and the max recommended bucket, mower and box blade width is 72 inches which is what my mower and bucket are. If I widened the tires that would make it a little wider than 72 inches, which is not too big a problem.

So far it sounds like there is no major drawback to widening them so I'll probably go ahead and do it.

 

[Paddy]

With out a doubt, wide and filled tires are your best tools for a stable machine...except that thing between your ears. No turning on hills, slow down in tall grass where you can't see those holes.

patrick

 

[N80]

Looking at my manual, the stock tread width (from the center line of the tread) is 46.5". The maximum width is 60.8." There are three widths in between these for a total of 5 options. In the diagram of the widest option the wheel and tire stick out past the axle hub and that just appears 'weak' to me. I'm sure it isn't weak but it can't be as strong.

I think I'm going to go with the fourth widest option. With this option the you move 'disk' from one side to the other but the tire and rim stay on the same side but the disk attaches to the inner mounting point of the rim. This looks sturdy to me and adds over ten inches of width.

With 5 width options, and knowing that wider is better, why do the come from the dealer with the narrowest stance. I assumed it was a shipping thing but many of the tractors at the dealership come in crates without the wheels on.

 

[rdbrumfield]

When using my trator on slopes I set them as wide as possible. You will find some things about your tractor that will make you want to keep them that way, of course like some have said, your emplements will dictate width somewhat. One of the major improvements that I notice is that the tractor has a much smoother ride from side to side and when doing brake assisted turns it helps. Main thing is that you be careful on sidehills. The big disadvantage about having them way out is that it makes the tractor (rounder). The loader frame and roll bar is farther away from the outside of the tires and if you do roll, it gives it a better chance of going all the way over instead of just on it's side.

 

[QRTRHRS]

About the only drawback I could think of that has not been mentioned is when mowing up against posts or trees, etc. If you are trying to get real tight then you might need to lean out over the fender a bit more.

I might also remind you to properly support the tractor when you make your swap. Safety first!

 

[N80]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( About the only drawback I could think of that has not been mentioned is when mowing up against posts or trees, etc. If you are trying to get real tight then you might need to lean out over the fender a bit more.

I might also remind you to properly support the tractor when you make your swap. Safety first! )</font>

My 6' mower currently sticks out a little on each side which _is_ nice for cutting close to road edges, trees, etc. I'll probably won't set them any wider than the mower.

Several people have mentioned properly supporting the tractor. I'll do this at my B-I-L's shop but I may be doing it by myslef. Just how do you jack up a tractor and support it safely? (My little Kubota weighs about 4000 pounds with the loader on.) He has the mongo overhead hoist and I've seen tractors 'hanging' from it when he has the transmission open, but I'm assuming all I really need is jack stands for safe support. He has several large floor jacks but I doubt they have the reach necessary for a tractor. I've also seen some big bottle jacks in his shop.

 

[Slamfire]

I'm with Pontiac on this question. However there can be an increased load on the bearings. One thing I learned with dual wheels is to infalate the inner to a higher pressure than the outers. This reduces the bearing load somewhat. My inners are set a 12 psi, and the outers a 8 psi. You have to tip it pretty far to put significant extra load on the bearings. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[rk246]

My dealer recommends not setting your tires wider than your bucket, for the reason that if you are mowing your bucket should be low and hit a stump instead of your tires and causing you problems, the bucket will let you know whats out in front? seems logical to me.....

 

[beenthere]

Sounds like you have the right equipment to do the job. Just using the chain hoist for a 'safety' net from above will help. Easier to avoid it falling down without wheels than to try to pick it up afterwards (especially if you are under it). /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Blocks, floor jacks, jack stands, chain hoists all will work for you. Block the front wheels as the parking brake will do no good without rear wheels on the ground. Loosen the bolts before raising off the ground. You should be good to go.

 

[daTeacha]

Just remember, those tire/wheel combo's are heavy, especially loaded. Have some help around and don't let them tip too far from vertical when you move them around.

If the chain hoist is movable within the shop, I'd consider setting the tractor on blocks --make some out of 6x6 or 8x8 wood with a "cradle" to fit around the axles -- and using the hoist to handle the tires.

 

[N80]

Hmm. How heavy are unloaded tire/wheels (14.9x24)?

 

[beenthere]

I agree being careful, but I did mine (while loaded) and they stand up (if R4's) pretty well on their own. This was taken just before I removed the right rear and rolled it around to the left side.

 

[N80]

I've got Ag tires. I bet they won't stand up.

 

[QRTRHRS]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( My dealer recommends not setting your tires wider than your bucket, for the reason that if you are mowing your bucket should be low and hit a stump instead of your tires and causing you problems, the bucket will let you know whats out in front? seems logical to me..... )</font>If you hit a stump with your bucket at normal mowing speeds, then your tire width might be the least of your problems.

Re: positioning tires safely with a minimum of tools. Assuming the tires are going to be swapped in order to keep the tread direction correct, start with a good stable jack under one side. Remove the tire/rim and flip the center section if required. Once the center is tight, drop that side down on some stout blocking that is unlikely to fall over. Jack up the other side, swap the tire, center, etc. Let that one down then go back to the first side to finish the job.

 

[curt1]

My dealer told me the reason they set width to the minimum is because their dealership has a small lot. This way they can have more tractors on display.
I would set the tires to the widest position for stability. It might get you out of a "sticky" situation. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif When I set mine to the widest position, I could tell a big difference in stability. Have fun with your new tractor!

Curt