How to test a CV joint?

[N80]

I've got a 2003 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4x4. I love it and I hate it. It only has 130k miles on it but the typical things are starting to go wrong. Right now I'm hearing and sort of feeling a clunking noise coming from the front end but only when I'm turning. Still drives and handles normally (like an ocean liner).

I think it is one of the CV joints but right now I can't tell which side.

Is there a way to test for a dying CV joint with the truck jacked up or on a lift?

 

[George2615]

Hard to explain here but do a Google or Bing search on how to test / check a CV joint.
Several videos will come up on how to test them.
At 130K miles and clunking when you turn they are probably due for replacement.

 

[Danno1]

.



Well, in such cases I kinda don't care which side. The non-clunking side will be due soon anyway.



.

 

[kubotasara]

Check out American CV for the replacements. Good aftermarket stuff - and a really wide range as well.

 

[4570Man]

Does Ford not use unlocking hubs anymore? I've never dealt with a new Ford.

 

[N80]

Does Ford not use unlocking hubs anymore? I've never dealt with a new Ford.

I don't think any 150 level trucks have used locking hubs in a long time.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Just lift both wheels off the ground. Rock each wheel back and forth and you will soon see which one has a problem. There should be very little play in a CV joint.

 

[Gator6x4]

I would have the front end checked at a Ford Dealership. Ford had a problem one time with the u-joints on the front hubs binding when making a turn and making a clunking noise like the front end was about to fall out or break. It for some reason was mostly on the left side. Either way, removal and replacement of the front hubs and drive line is way beyond the skill level of a novice diving into a complex mechanical repair.

 

[N80]

In 4 wheel drive this truck has always, from new, had binding issues. No noise, just decreased turn radius and requires more gas to make it through the turn. Has always ticked me off. Major design flaw.

 

[4570Man]

I think that's mostly from the independent front suspension. Mine and my buddies Chevy 1500s both bind and buck in 4wd even driving in a straight line. His was so bad he took the back driveshaft out and drove it around because he thought the previous owner might have changed the gear ratio. It still bucked. Our solid axel Fords drive smooth in a straight line in 4wd. Anything that's 4wd especially something that's actually 4wd or the more typical 3wd is going to buck when turning. We pay for the solid axel with a terrible turning radius. Running open differentials on the front and back axel is the only way not to bind in 4x4 and that's a terrible solution. You might as well have a locking differential 2wd that's a less complex design.

 

[N80]

I've owned Japanese trucks with independent front suspensions that did not bind at all. Our Late 80's Chevy S-10 Blazer had independent front and no binding or bucking. So it can be done.

 

[Egon]

Usually it's U joints that have a tendency to bind exspecially on tight turns. CV joints are a much different design with smoother operation.

Solid front axle usually has U-Joints. Independant usually has a CV joint.

 

[BleedingOrange]

I,ve got a 2008 Ford F150, and was getting some weird binding, clunking, when turning the steering wheel.
I found the problem to be dry joints on the steering column, down low near the steering box.
Some good spray lube got them loosened up, and the noise disappeared. Now I do that lube procedure each fall and spring.
If you find that your CV joints are good, maybe do a quik check in this area.