Grading How to feather a 3ph blade up and out of the material using a BX

[RaydaKub]

Today was my first experience really using my blade. I've got a 5 foot behind my BX. I was working on a driveway behind my church. It had ground up pavement put on it a year ago. The blade had a really good bite on a slight angle. I was able to fill in some deep ruts and move a fair amount of material to the low spots. What I discovered however, is that to do the finish grade is really an art form. If there are any bumps or dips, the blade can miss our gouge very easily. I decided to spin the blade backwards to try to get it to not dig in so easily. What I was really frustrated with was trying to complete the grade and feather out the remaining material. I would hold onto the 3ph lever and ease it as slowly as I could. I could hear the system whine, but the blade wouldn't lift at all, then suddenly jump up about 2-3 inches or more, leaving a new ridge.

Does anybody have any ideas about how I could change this setup? There is the 3ph drop control and that seemed to help to start the pass, but I really need is some way to slow down the lift. Is there any way to adjust the lift?

 

[repete]

Have you tried using the blade in reverse. This tends to reduce the up and down motion as the blade levels in front of the tires causing the tires to run on "level" ground.

 

[like2wheel]

Have you tried using the blade in reverse. This tends to reduce the up and down motion as the blade levels in front of the tires causing the tires to run on "level" ground.

I decided to spin the blade backwards to try to get it to not dig in so easily.

I think he did...

 

[mikehaugen]

I took that as he turned blade around but still was driving forward, maybe I was wrong too

 

[mikehaugen]

To answer the question though, the only way I know to slow down the lift (except by moving the lever slower) is to lower the rpm's

 

[like2wheel]

I took that as he turned blade around but still was driving forward, maybe I was wrong too

Now I think you were right, & I didn't read your response throughly.
Sounds like a good idea.

 

[repair1]

Have you tried using the quarter inching valve? If I hold the lever to the left while moving it to lift, the 3 point will lift slowly without jerking. Try it.

 

[TripleR]

I don't believe the BX2230 has a quarter inching valve, our BX2200 doesn't while our BX2660 does.

To OP, I will have to say this is one of the things I dislike about the BX. While I did learn to "feather" my BX2200 to some extent, it never approached the level available with the position control 3PH. I just hit it a little at a time and it would scream and raise a bit, it is noisy and inexact, but it is the best I could do.

I am sure there is someone out there who can do it effectively, but it isn't me, sorry.

 

[CHDinCT]

Have you tried using the quarter inching valve? If I hold the lever to the left while moving it to lift, the 3 point will lift slowly without jerking. Try it.

What he said. Pull the lever in towards the seat while pulling up or down to engage the quarter-inching function. There ard two stops under the fender for the QI valve. Sometimes they have to be adjusted to get the hitch to move just the right amount.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I guess practise is the main thing. I bought a rear blade early on and it wasn't of much value to me like teeth on the front bucket. Myself, I always used the front bucket to do what your talking about since I could see it, twist angle or drop under pressure or drop in float to do what I wanted and mostly in reverse moving. The RatchetRake will do a great finish for surfaces.

 

[AceDeuce]

I've seen a couple people add guide wheels to their rear blade. It provides very precise depth control w/o trying to control it with the 3ph.

For smoothing loose gravel, pulling the convex side of the blade usually works pretty well for me.

The other option is the FEL. Pick the front end up off the ground and go in reverse, slowly curling the bucket up as you go until the front tires come back down.

 

[Egon]

The same problem the rest of us have with a rear blade. Put some guide wheels on and it's just like magic.:cool2:

There are lots of threads here on guide wheels. "Henro" has some nice ones.

 

[RaydaKub]

I guess I didn't realize there were model differences. Mine is a BX2230 and I don't think there is a 1/4 inch valve on it, but I'll check.

The other question - yes, I was still driving forward. Tough to keep your foot on the pedal, reach the valve, steer, and crank your head around all at the same time. But next time I guess I'll have to give it a try.

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[TripleR]

I guess I didn't realize there were model differences. Mine is a BX2230 and I don't think there is a 1/4 inch valve on it, but I'll check.

The other question - yes, I was still driving forward. Tough to keep your foot on the pedal, reach the valve, steer, and crank your head around all at the same time. But next time I guess I'll have to give it a try.

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

No doubt it is hard Ray, I used these little tractors for years and even with the quarter inching valve on the 2660 which I don't believe you have, I never really got "good" at it; hope you fare better. Like several others, I had better luck with the FEL.

 

[Baby Grand]

Not sure if it's at all related, but our B5100 does the "jump" when lifting the 3pt hitch.
I found that I can get a smooth, gradual lift, but it requires just barely cracking the 3ph valve open.
This is nearly impossible to accomplish with one hand on the lever on a moving, pitching tractor.
Sort of like that old SNL skit of the rabbi performing his "cut" in the back seat of a Ford Granada bouncing around the ragged streets of 1970's SoHo.
Back to the problem: So I found that if I wrap my thumb around the fender mounted handle next to the lever, then I can steady my hand enough to just crack the valve open and get a gradual lift of the implement, regardless of how the tractor happens to be pitching me around at the moment.
Also, as Egon noted, adding guide wheels is a great solution to this and several other difficulties posed when using a rear blade.
Hope it helps!

 

[Mendonsy]

Your BX is 3pt control probably similar to my B7500. It has really nice control for down, but up is an art form!
Your Avatar Pic shows a loader on the BX.
You can easily smooth out those rough spots by using your loader. Just set the bucket angle slightly below level, apply some down pressure, and back up over the rough spots.

 

[Trails End]

I have a Bobcat CT335 with a 72" box blade and I have the same problem when trying
to lift the box blade gradually. It remains at the previous level for a bit and then jumps
up one to two inches, leaving a small ridge of material.

 

[WaxMan]

Today was my first experience really using my blade. I've got a 5 foot behind my BX. I was working on a driveway behind my church. It had ground up pavement put on it a year ago. The blade had a really good bite on a slight angle. I was able to fill in some deep ruts and move a fair amount of material to the low spots. What I discovered however, is that to do the finish grade is really an art form. If there are any bumps or dips, the blade can miss our gouge very easily. I decided to spin the blade backwards to try to get it to not dig in so easily. What I was really frustrated with was trying to complete the grade and feather out the remaining material. I would hold onto the 3ph lever and ease it as slowly as I could. I could hear the system whine, but the blade wouldn't lift at all, then suddenly jump up about 2-3 inches or more, leaving a new ridge.

Does anybody have any ideas about how I could change this setup? There is the 3ph drop control and that seemed to help to start the pass, but I really need is some way to slow down the lift. Is there any way to adjust the lift?

I would use my front bucket leave it 1/2 full or full of material and grade going forward this will stop the bucket from bouncing and you will grade off those high spots. I never found a use for a rear blade that my bucket can't do. But that was after practicing 700hrs using my bucket.

 

[Tomtint]

I had a 5 foot blade on my BX. I find the relatively short wheelbase makes grading a challenge. The front of the tractor dips and the back goes up. The front goes up and the blade digs in. I think the tool for grading is a land plane instead of a RB. I ended up giving my RB to my sister who has a B7500 and that tractor has the same issues.

 

[94BULLITT]

What I do for finish off a driveway is put the tractor in High range, 2500-2700RPM, spin the the around backwards, and drive full speed ahead. Get the tractor moving and then drop the blade. When you get to the end of your run you can slowly pick the blade up and it is spread out uniform. The shorter you run the toplink with the blade backwards the less it will cut in. Like Mendonsy said the loader also will work very good. You could smooth out the piles with it.