joshuabardwell
Elite Member
If the tiller is Cat 0, the pins will be 5/8" instead of 3/4" (or metric equivalent), and that'll be a dead giveaway.
How standard is a category 1 3ph?
- Thread starter miloman
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If the tiller is Cat 0, the pins will be 5/8" instead of 3/4" (or metric equivalent), and that'll be a dead giveaway.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Do you have any pictures of how you are hooking it up??
Are you hooking inside the clevis?? Where that bushing is??? Are you putting the arms outside that bushing??
I may be way off here, but it looks like you can have cat 1 spacing if you put your arms outside the bushing, and cat 0 if you put the arms inside the bushing???
The 7th pic has the best shot
Rotary tiller 115 cm, light series, for Japanese compact tractors, Geo TL115 - Keletagro.hu
Are you hooking inside the clevis?? Where that bushing is??? Are you putting the arms outside that bushing??
I may be way off here, but it looks like you can have cat 1 spacing if you put your arms outside the bushing, and cat 0 if you put the arms inside the bushing???
The 7th pic has the best shot
Rotary tiller 115 cm, light series, for Japanese compact tractors, Geo TL115 - Keletagro.hu
Dutch445
Elite Member
looking at the other tillers available on those sites, their heavy duty line has a much
wider spread, and the pins are on the outside of their frames.
since you can get the tiller on the tractor, you may really just need to
find a way to improve the sway links to allow the arms to be in that narrow
position and control the sway. look at your sway control turnbuckle, and maybe
you can drill another hole for the anchor in the lower link to allow your turnbuckles
to reach?
maybe somebody else has a simple solution, here's the parts pic of your 3ph and the
turnbuckles:
wider spread, and the pins are on the outside of their frames.
since you can get the tiller on the tractor, you may really just need to
find a way to improve the sway links to allow the arms to be in that narrow
position and control the sway. look at your sway control turnbuckle, and maybe
you can drill another hole for the anchor in the lower link to allow your turnbuckles
to reach?
maybe somebody else has a simple solution, here's the parts pic of your 3ph and the
turnbuckles:
Attachments
joshuabardwell
Elite Member
Could you rig up sway control chains, on the inside of the lift arms, going to the tractor's frame-mounted drawbar (assuming it has one) or some part of the frame?
Thanks for all the help, much appreciated!
Done some measurements on the top and lower pin’s: they match the category 1 sizes mentioned in bcp’s table (top is 19mm=3/4inch, bottom is 21mm, about 7/8 inch). So the pins indicate that the tiller is a cat 1, as is the 2305 (limited is no issue, since it can be lifted high enough).
Strange thing is that the spacing of the tiller is not category 1, although advertised as cat 1 and 2…..
Mounting the arms on the outside does not work: 1) the pins that come with the tiller are too short to do this, and 2) the strange green handles are in the way.
I tried to use the JD bar (you can see it lying on top of the tiller) that is used to lock the arms when not in use, but because of the handles I cannot move the arm over bar.
So alternative 1 is remove the 2 handles (don’t know what they are for), and use the JD bar, and some spacers that came with the tiller to install the arms on the outside (although my girlfriend doesn’t like me sawing some parts of the new tiller ;-),
Alternative 2 is like Dutch445 suggests to drill additional holes to attach the turnbuckles, so they can ‘fix’ the tiller.
Alternative 3 is to attach additional chains to ‘fix’ the tiller like joshuabardwell suggest (if I understand correctly).
At the moment alternative 1 seems the most obvious to me, also it increases the arm spacing, and thus stability.
Alternative 4 is to have the JD dealer do some welding and increase the arm distance. Only thing is that it’s a nice jobs to get the 100+ kilo tiller to the dealer….
Thanks again for all your help and suggestions. I will let you know how this is resolved.
Done some measurements on the top and lower pin’s: they match the category 1 sizes mentioned in bcp’s table (top is 19mm=3/4inch, bottom is 21mm, about 7/8 inch). So the pins indicate that the tiller is a cat 1, as is the 2305 (limited is no issue, since it can be lifted high enough).
Strange thing is that the spacing of the tiller is not category 1, although advertised as cat 1 and 2…..
Mounting the arms on the outside does not work: 1) the pins that come with the tiller are too short to do this, and 2) the strange green handles are in the way.
I tried to use the JD bar (you can see it lying on top of the tiller) that is used to lock the arms when not in use, but because of the handles I cannot move the arm over bar.
So alternative 1 is remove the 2 handles (don’t know what they are for), and use the JD bar, and some spacers that came with the tiller to install the arms on the outside (although my girlfriend doesn’t like me sawing some parts of the new tiller ;-),
Alternative 2 is like Dutch445 suggests to drill additional holes to attach the turnbuckles, so they can ‘fix’ the tiller.
Alternative 3 is to attach additional chains to ‘fix’ the tiller like joshuabardwell suggest (if I understand correctly).
At the moment alternative 1 seems the most obvious to me, also it increases the arm spacing, and thus stability.
Alternative 4 is to have the JD dealer do some welding and increase the arm distance. Only thing is that it’s a nice jobs to get the 100+ kilo tiller to the dealer….
Thanks again for all your help and suggestions. I will let you know how this is resolved.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Just for kicks, have you contacted the MFG, or who ever you bought it from about the discrepancy??
joshuabardwell
Elite Member
It seems like the issue is not necessarily the fit to the three-point, but the ability to stabilize the three-point after the implement is fitted. This may be the distinction the manufacturer is relying on.
LD1
Epic Contributor
I still would have thought that if they advertised it as cat I, then it would have 26" spacing and not the 20" of a cat 0
What you have is a cat 0 implement with cat 1 pins. They should have built the hitch with 3 tabs on each side instead of 2. The inner pair for cat 0 and the outer pair for cat 1.
The "handles" look like guards to keep legs and feet away from the blades. I would bend them up so the long rod and the draft arm clear.
Bruce
