how much loader drop is acceptable?

[MF1652]

I have a 2010 Massey Ferguson 1652 with a DL130 loader. Over the past year I have noticed the loader dropping at a more frequent rate during use. When the hydraulics warm up it seems to drop faster. I have never disconnected any of the hydraulic fittings on the loader. All maintenance intervals have been done and the hydraulic level is reading fine(maybe just a tad high, but acceptable). Don't notice a leak any where.

I measured the loader drop with cold hydraulics in 35 degrees today. In one hour the loader dropped 4 1/2" measured at the tip of the bucket cutting edge. 1/2" of drop measured at the lift cylinder.

Doesn't seem like much when I measure it because I know all loaders will settle. Hoever, it seems like a lot when I have to keep lifting the loader up when driving with the tractor. When the tractor was new, the loader didn't seem to drop at all even with a 35 gallon water tank in the bucket.

The loader manual doesn't give an acceptable tolerance so my questions are this. What is an acceptable amount of settle in the loader hydraulics? Is this normal or should I be looking deeper for a leak?

P.S. my TPH will stay up with no problem.:confused2:

 

[PapaPerk]

I have a 2010 Massey Ferguson 1652 with a DL130 loader. Over the past year I have noticed the loader dropping at a more frequent rate during use. When the hydraulics warm up it seems to drop faster. I have never disconnected any of the hydraulic fittings on the loader. All maintenance intervals have been done and the hydraulic level is reading fine(maybe just a tad high, but acceptable). Don't notice a leak any where.

I measured the loader drop with cold hydraulics in 35 degrees today. In one hour the loader dropped 4 1/2" measured at the tip of the bucket cutting edge. 1/2" of drop measured at the lift cylinder.

Doesn't seem like much when I measure it because I know all loaders will settle. Hoever, it seems like a lot when I have to keep lifting the loader up when driving with the tractor. When the tractor was new, the loader didn't seem to drop at all even with a 35 gallon water tank in the bucket.

The loader manual doesn't give an acceptable tolerance so my questions are this. What is an acceptable amount of settle in the loader hydraulics? Is this normal or should I be looking deeper for a leak?

P.S. my TPH will stay up with no problem.:confused2:

It should certainly no drop during operation. And minimal when stored. Sounds like a leak.

 

[murphy1244]

So much for me going Massey....:ashamed:

 

[J_J]

Cylinders will leak or bypass whether they have hyd pressure or not. Either push or pull weight.

If you have a good valve, and the loader valve is in neutral, the cyl circuit is supposed to be a closed circuit.

If the bucket or the lift arms drop, it is most likely cyl seals.

Excerpt:

[ In hydraulic cylinders, cylinder rod drift or creep and the cylinder’s inability to hold the designed load would be identified by increased leakage. The excessive leakage is the result of the fluid bypassing a piston seal either through a worn seal or a worn cylinder barrel ]

[ Low fluid viscosity or excessive heat (reducing the effective viscosity of a fluid) will also increase leakage rates. ] Warm fluid for instance, will leak more.

The amount of leak down is just simply what you can tolerate.

I have seen valve leakage rates using drops per minutes.

 

[oldnslo]

I have a 2010 Massey Ferguson 1652 with a DL130 loader. Over the past year I have noticed the loader dropping at a more frequent rate during use. When the hydraulics warm up it seems to drop faster. I have never disconnected any of the hydraulic fittings on the loader. All maintenance intervals have been done and the hydraulic level is reading fine(maybe just a tad high, but acceptable). Don't notice a leak any where.

I measured the loader drop with cold hydraulics in 35 degrees today. In one hour the loader dropped 4 1/2" measured at the tip of the bucket cutting edge. 1/2" of drop measured at the lift cylinder.

Doesn't seem like much when I measure it because I know all loaders will settle. Hoever, it seems like a lot when I have to keep lifting the loader up when driving with the tractor. When the tractor was new, the loader didn't seem to drop at all even with a 35 gallon water tank in the bucket.

The loader manual doesn't give an acceptable tolerance so my questions are this. What is an acceptable amount of settle in the loader hydraulics? Is this normal or should I be looking deeper for a leak?

P.S. my TPH will stay up with no problem.:confused2:

If you are really concerned about this and have some way of lifting the loader without tractor hydraulics and have quick disconnects in the lines you can run a simple test.

Raise the loader using the tractor hydraulics.
Support the loader to remove pressure from the cap end of the lift cylinders. Disconnect the quick disconnects in the cap end (raise) port of the cylinder.
Slowly allow the load back onto the loader.
Measure position of loader and check position in an hour.
Mechanically raise the loader to remove the pressure on the cap end and reconnect your QD.

If loader is drifting down the cylinders are leaking.

Loader didn't move, the valve is leaking. ALL spool valves leak, how much is determined by several factors.

Are you valves controlled by direct manual lever or through a push/pull cable? If the valve is not returning to center it would allow the cylinders to drift faster.

Depending on how big of a concern this is you can buy directional valves that have load holding work port checks built into them. Not inexpensive but will solve this problem.

Roy

 

[California]

My 30 year old loader on the YM240 does this. Lift will stay up indefinitely but Curl leaks down. I put new piston seals and rod-packings in both curl cylinders, no improvement.

Then lifting something heavy I discovered the control valve dribbled fluid on the ground. Looks like its time to replace the control valve.

Does anyone know of a direct replacement for this valve? Nominal relief pressure is 2000 psi and 4gpm hydraulic pump. The name cast into the valve is 'AICO'.

 

[MF1652]

I've noticed the loader control lever has gotten a lot of slop in it lately. I'll have to wait until next week to see if the lever has any sort of take up adjustment. May not be returning to neutral like another posted suggested. Thanks for the help folks.

 

[J_J]

Are you using cables to operate the valves. If so, cables might be binding and not allowing the valve to center.

There are springs in the valve, which are supposed to center the valve to neutral. If one of the springs is weak or broken, spool won't center, and may leak. The detent may also have rust, debris in the detent groove.

Most likely, your loader cyl's seals are leaking.

Can you max out the loader cyl's and get the relief valve to activate?

 

[Green Acres Homestead]

I cannot help this but JJ. you always give the best advice and you are looking mighty dapper in your Santa suit. Thanks for your great advice. Santa clearly knows if an hydraulic system is knotty or nice.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

My 30 year old loader on the YM240 does this. Lift will stay up indefinitely but Curl leaks down. I put new piston seals and rod-packings in both curl cylinders, no improvement.

Then lifting something heavy I discovered the control valve dribbled fluid on the ground. Looks like its time to replace the control valve.

Does anyone know of a direct replacement for this valve? Nominal relief pressure is 2000 psi and 4gpm hydraulic pump. The name cast into the valve is 'AICO'.

View attachment 242597

Baileys seems to have some bargain valves lately. Check this one out:
Directional Control Valves 220-907 Detailed Information
If you want a float detent for the lift function: http://baileynet.com/index.php?dnfwd=1&page=ProductDetails&line=CVED&baileyno=220-956
Edit: Joystick option: http://baileynet.com/index.php?dnfwd=1&page=ProductDetails&line=CVED&baileyno=220-957

Surplus Center: http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7862&catname=hydraulic

Get the power beyond plug and add a hose from the return port to the tank to do it right.

While you're at it a couple of your hoses look ripe for replacement.

Edit: Bottom line, valves are pretty generic. You don't need an identical valve, just one with specs that match the function. Do pay attention to the port sizes. You may need adapters. I like the off-the-shelf hoses with npt fittings with adapters going to the valves as needed.