How Many of You Change Coolant?

[RalphVa]

Oh, I ALWAYS use the manufacturer's recommended antifreeze. Buy it from the dealer. Usually costs around $20/gallon.

Ralph

 

[Mighty Dodge]

Your engine needs sca's to prevent cavitation damage. In your manual it states
Recommended Engine Coolant
The following John Deere coolants are preferred:

ｷ COOL-GARDｮ PRE-DILUTED SUMMER COOLANT (TY16036).

ｷ COOL-GARDｮ CONCENTRATED SUMMER COOLANT (TY16034).
If neither of the recommended coolants is available, use a glycol base coolant that meets the following specification:

ｷ ASTM D4985 (JDM H24A2).

Check container label before using to be sure it has the appropriate specifications for your machine. Use coolant with conditioner or add conditioner to coolant before using.
They're referring to the anti cavitation additive.

M.D.

 

[foggy1111]

OK.....I believe the anti-cavitation spec is out there and that there's gotta be a reason for it....and I'm gonna check my antifreeze for the specification....and get the additive if it ain't up to spec. BUT, has anyone ever experienced a problem with the NON anti-cavitation antifreeze, or heard of "real" problems associated with it. Call me old fashioned....(I didn't know a spec existed till a few days ago).....but it makes me wonder if this isn't much like Y2K....lots of exercise over nuth'in. lol

....and here I figgured I wuddn't lern nuth'in new today.

 

[kennyd]

OK.....I believe the anti-cavitation spec is out there and that there's gotta be a reason for it....and I'm gonna check my antifreeze for the specification....and get the additive if it ain't up to spec. BUT, has anyone ever experienced a problem with the NON anti-cavitation antifreeze, or heard of "real" problems associated with it. Call me old fashioned....(I didn't know a spec existed till a few days ago).....but it makes me wonder if this isn't much like Y2K....lots of exercise over nuth'in. lol

....and here I figgured I wuddn't lern nuth'in new today.

Search the term "cavitation in diesel engines" on Google, Ford had lots of problems with this early on with the 7.3L IH engines-partly because they never included the info in the owners manuals. It's probably not a big deal in our tractors as they usually see limited use. But on large diesel engines that are run a lot it is definitely a "for real" problem that can occur.


Here is what JD has to say: Coolants

 

[art]

The antifreeze may test good by temperature but still be less the right mix for cavitation. But cavitation is a wet sleeve problem not a dry or parent bore problem!!!

Several companies have tried to say they to have cavitation problems but what they actually have is poor castings!!!!!! Used to bore out many blocks when I worked in a automotive machine shop and install dry sleeves years ago to fix blocks that would leak antifreeze into the crankcase after wearing so far. That was even in gas engine blocks not just diesel that had this problem..

The additives that are used are good for the water pump seals and the hoses as well as radiator life. You can by the additives to renew your antifreeze to the proper PH or change it.

 

[Egon]

Several companies have tried to say they to have cavitation problems but what they actually have is poor castings!!!!!!

I can recall reading about the casting problem on the Ford engines.

That was about the time Cavitation became a buzz word. It had me confused as we had some wet sleeve compressor engines that we used a 50/50 mixture of glycol/water in that didn't have any additives as far as we knew. These engines ran 24/7. The antifreeze came in barrels.

 

[Karl2]

a coupla days ago I didn't know there was such a thing as anti cavitation anti freeze (ignorance is bliss ).

Two minutes ago I didn't know there was such a thing as anti cavitation antifreeze.

Fortunately my tractor is only two years old and still has factory coolant.

 

[RalphVa]

When you change antifreeze, always remove the vent plug that's probably on top your thermostat housing. Think my 4010 manuals/CD don't mention this, but the stuff really won't drain out until you remove that vent. It's easier to refill, too. Just fill until you see some come out the vent. Then put the vent plug back in and add until radiator is full. Then put some mix into the overflow pot. I do this on my tractor, the Benz and the Toyota. The Toyota doesn't have a vent, but I took out the temperature gauge sensor and put back. Haven't found out really what to do on the silly VW with the thermostat on the bottom. Changed its antifreeze twice, and it was a struggle to drain and to refill both times.

Ralph

 

[circlelake]

Antirust can be purchased at your local farm store/ auto store. When I worked in Auto Parts years ago we sold it along with every new Antifreeze purchase. Supposedly there is some lube in new Anti Freeze. Cheap insurance.

 

[DWCox]

When you change antifreeze, always remove the vent plug that's probably on top your thermostat housing. Think my 4010 manuals/CD don't mention this, but the stuff really won't drain out until you remove that vent. It's easier to refill, too. Just fill until you see some come out the vent. Then put the vent plug back in and add until radiator is full. Then put some mix into the overflow pot. I do this on my tractor, the Benz and the Toyota. The Toyota doesn't have a vent, but I took out the temperature gauge sensor and put back. Haven't found out really what to do on the silly VW with the thermostat on the bottom. Changed its antifreeze twice, and it was a struggle to drain and to refill both times.

On cars aren't you supposed to pull the block plug when changing--for the very reasons you mentioned?

And I have been poking around a bit more on this question, even among auto mech. sites, and there seems to be a fairly strong consensus that the antifreeze needs to go after a couple years--again, for the very reasons mentioned in this thread.