How do I?

[MLinOleMiss]

How do I go about detaching my ml112 loader from my 4110 do do work without the loader? Thanks.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

You should have gotten an instrution manual with the tractor/FEL that is put out by the FEL Manufacturer. If you didn't get one, call the dealer, he should have a couple laying around. If he doesn't have one, have him get you one from the manufacturer/mahindra. As a second thought, have him come out and show you how to take it off/put it on when he delivers the manual to you......Bobg in VA

 

[mboulais]

It is in the loader manual, If you don't have it I can scan the pages you need and send them via email. I found it very important to do it on a very flat, very hard surface. Concrete driveway would be good, or asphalt if it isn't going to be warm out (it will settle into the asphalt some). Mine settled into the lawn and I hard a hard time getting it back on.

 

[MLinOleMiss]

If you could send them to me, it would be greatly appreciated. I bought the tractor used and have the tractor manual but not the loader manual. E-mail address is in my profile. Thanks.

 

[mboulais]

OK, I'll scan it tonight and send it tomorrow.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Do we know who built the FEL? (Maybe I missed it, if I did I'm sorry). Mahindra has had a couple of FEL Manufacturers. My ML264 was made by KMW, however they have also been built by Great Bend, etc. You should check and see if there is a "sticker" on the loader(usually near the post where the hydro controls are. BobG in VA

 

[skipmarcy]

Even with the loader manual, you will find it is a learning experience. mboulais gives good advice - make sure it is on hard, level ground or it will be an ordeal getting it back on. I found also that the "foot" supplied with my KMW built loader wasn't either the proper length or angle and had to use some blocks of wood under it to get the right angles. One other concern - make certain you bleed-off hydraulic pressure with your joystick before disconnecting the hoses and still be prepared for a potential oil bath. I now wrap a rag around the connector before disconnecting - I learned the hard way!! I also recommend using some anti-seize compound on the connectors while they're disconnected - lube under where the collar slides and also the balls and then the ridge in the male end where the balls engage.

 

[MLinOleMiss]

It must be made by KMW, my foot is also too short. I will be keeping it in my machine shop on concrete, so settling will not be a problem. Thanks.

 

[demote]

skip, I tried the suggestion of bleeding off the hydraulics when I last removed my loader, maybe I didn't do it correctly but what I did was rotate the joystick in all directions to relieve the pressure but doing so caused the bucket to shift and made it more difficult to remount--any hints? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Push the joystick all the way forward till it goes into "float". This equalizes/neutralizes pressure in the FEL. BobG in VA

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

To all of you on this thread, The ML112 loader fo the 3510 and 4110 Mahindra tractors is and always has been manufactured by KMW. As to removing and attaching the loader, I will give you some instruction. Start by finding a hard level spot, install you prop stand in it's mount bracket near the front of the loader, drop the loader till the prop stand rests on the foor then tilt the bucket forward till the front edge of the bucket also touches the floor. Remove the nuts on the bottom of the rear loader uprights and let the retainer flop down. Bump your joystick to the rear as to raise the loader, and the uprights will lift off their perch a couple inches. shut the tractor off and very quickly run your joystick arround in a circle, just to relieve a little pressure on the lines. Undo your hyd quick couplers and back the tractor out. To put it back on pull the tractor in to about an inch from engaging your front bracket, shut the tractor off and very thuroughly run the joy stick arround in circles. Connect your hydraulic lines (sometimes not easy even after relieving pressure), start the tractor and tilt the bucket one way or the other to line up the front bracket. This proceedure is only done if the loader has settled and the front bracket doesn't line up. Then pull the tractor forward to engage the front bracket and then bump the joystick forward to set the uprights down on their perch. Secure the uprights to their perch, raise the loader and put the prop rod back in it's storage position. I hope this is helpful.

Galen LaWall
Your Mahindra Tractor Dealer
Batavia, NY 14020
585-343-0770

 

[Slippy]

Always wear eye protection and thick gloves. Even when you try to relieve pressure, you can still get a squirt with a lot of force. See your manual for the warnings.

 

[skipmarcy]

Sorry, no I don't have any hints - that's why I got a bath too!! The bucket is going to settle some and it doesn't take much to give you a good squirt. That's one good reason I leave my loader on all the time except for a major repair on the tractor, too much hassle taking it off & back on. Plus, I would end-up needing it if I took it off just to have it out of the way. Besides the loader settling, the hot sun will build pressure as well, especially down here in Florida. I had a heck of a time getting the hoses reconnected with pressure on them, had to use a plastic mallet to pop the check valves in the hose ends to relieve the pressure (another wet experience I knew was coming) so I could connect them to the valve. I had wrapped a rag around them before popping the check valves but still got some spray. As far as I'm concerned, the loader is part of the tractor!!

 

[skipmarcy]

Bob, on my loader, the float is only on loader arm cylinders, not the bucket cylinders. I use it all the time for back-dragging and set the bucket at all various angles and can change the angle of the bucket while the arms are in float, that's the way I do some tapering in a swale etc.