How do I move my shed ?

[Madman_Mark]

I have a 12x8 shed (baby barn) that I need to move soon in order to build a garage.
It's basically just a storage shed with thin chipboard walls.
I have a 55 HP 4WD tractor with a FEL and a Farmi logging winch (weighs 300 lbs)on the back.
I can easily winch or haul it but what do I put underneath ?
Is it possible to lift it somehow with the FEL (with enough weight on back to counter balance it) and drive 40 feet to it's new location ?
What would work best ?

 

[shvl73]

Use pipe for rollers, cheap pvc pipe, works great. I screwed a couple of eyebolts in one end hooked to the bucket, put pipe underneath & away it goes. Two - three pieces would be enough.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

I'm moving exactly the same size wooden shed right now (when the rain stops and the ground dries a bit). I've done similar jobs before and it's really quite simple. Honest! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

If the forty feet is a straight or relatively straight shot you could move it using the same method used to move the stone for the pyramids in Egypt. Just get the leading edge up on a pipe, pull it forward onto another, then another, etc., until you're at your new location. You don't need 1,000 pipes, of course. Once you roll the back off a pipe you can pick it up and place it out in front again.

Keep in mind that to do this gracefully requires some labor to move the pipes all the time. If you hire that done, it can get expensive. The Egyptians used slaves. I might suggest family or friends. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Now that I've told you the cheap way, I'll tell you how I'm doing it. I'm moving this one a few miles to another property (I'm giving it to my mechanic) so the all pipe method wouldn't be practical. I'm starting with the same principle, however. I'll lift the lead edge and put it on a pipe. The similarities drop off rapidly here, however.

I'm running a large strap (4") around the base and ratcheting it down snug with a large D-ring at the front. To that I'll hook the winch cable from the roll off car hauler and just pull it up on the bed. Once the rear edge drops to the point of touching down, I'll level the bed a bit and keep moving it forward. Pretty simple deal, really.

Good luck with your project. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[AndyMA]

You can move it with rollers as suggested or you can use your loader if it has the capacity. I have a set of Woods 4000# forks on my TN and made a set of 10 foot extensions from channel iron. The shed in the picture is quite heavy as it has a lot of framing and waferboard sides. I carry it around a fair amount.

Andy

 

[SCB]

I am going to do the same thing with my shed. How would you guys go around corners using the pipe? I need to make two 90 degree corners and then back it into it's new location. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[SCB]

Gary,
What is your method for getting the shed off of the trailer?

 

[SCB]

Nice steup Andy. I don't think that my BX would be up to that task. I think I have tractor envy.

 

[GerardC]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Use pipe for rollers, cheap pvc pipe, works great. I screwed a couple of eyebolts in one end hooked to the bucket, put pipe underneath & away it goes. Two - three pieces would be enough. )</font>

Ditto. That's how I move my 10x12 shed. G

 

[khd]

Put the shed on 4X4 skids and pull it like a sled. Depending on what kind of floor you have you could permently mount the skids to the shed and it becomes infinitely mobile.

Kevin

 

[Moon]

We had to move our 9 x 12 shed a while back. We were moving and I sold the shed to a neighbor. We did it the low tech way. We slid two 4 x 4's underneath. We (4 or 5 of us) lifted the shed and carried it. Even lifed it over a chain link fence. Ofcourse, since we were moving the shed was empty. It was much easier than I had thought to move it.
Good luck with moving yours.... and your new garage!!!!!!
Moon of Ohio

 

[micromike]

I moved my 10" by 14" shed by jacking it up with a hydrolic jack and putting 6x6's underneith. We cut bevels on the ends and put eye bolts through and pulled it with a chain. Pulled it 100 yards with a 4x4 S10 across dirt, gravel and more dirt. Had some pipe ready for the rough spots up a dirt hill but did not need them. The only problem we ran into was when one of the eye bolts came open and released the chain. Use heavier, preferably welded eye bolts or do what we did and weld them closed. The shed still sits on the 6x6's ready to be moved again if needed.

mike

 

[JDdude]

PVC pipe it what I used..

 

[Inspector507]

Here's how jwstewar did his

 

[Tom_W]

We moved two sheds in the neighborhood on pvc pipe. Mine was easy. A 12x16, total distance, about 150'. Turned it twice.

My neighbor was a 10x20. We moved it the same way except that we rolled it out onto sonnitubes filled with concrete. His yard slopes quite a bit so he drilled down and put in the tubes. It looks like a california hillside house. The back of the shed is about 5' off the ground in 20'. Gives you some idea how steep his yard is.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

<font color="blue"> "What is your method for getting the shed off of the trailer?" </font>

In a word - gravity. Let me explain.

First. it's not my trailer but a rollback car hauler we'll use. When we're at the destination the truck will be carefully backed to the spot for the shed. The bed will be tilted and slid rearward until the rear edge of the bed is just forward of where they want the shed. At that time we'll tilt the bed severely and ease the rear edge of the shed off the bed onto the ground.

Then we'll start gently pulling the truck forward which allows the front edge of the shed to slide down the bed. When it's near the rear edge of the bed we'll reduce the angle of the tilt and ease the bed back while pulling the truck forward. In a perfect world those two opposite actions will occur at the same speed and the shed remains in the same place during this. If it moves some it's no big deal, however.

When the bed is fully extended to the rear and the rear edge is on the ground we'll just pull the truck forward and ease the front edge off the bed and onto the ground. The total drop it has to endure is 2"-3" maximum. It's honestly easier (and almost quicker) to do than to type.

I hope this explains it well enough. Generally speaking, the drivers are pretty good and know what they're doing.

 

[TORQUIN]

If you don't feel like messing with it, and have the room to manuever, you could also call your local towing company with a rollback, who could move it for you. I have done several like that when I was driving rollbacks. It will cost $50-75, depending on the towing company. The farther out in the country you are the more reasonable they are, usually.

Chris

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

<font color="blue"> "you could also call your local towing company with a rollback" </font>

That's exactly the thing of which I wrote just above. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Egon]

Jack it up and put skids under it just like some others have mentioned. Put a brace between the front and back of the skids so it they can't pull together, notch the underside of each skid and attach your chain.

This was the way farm graineries were moved many a year ago.

Egon

 

[nobull1]

Have to agree with the skids I have a shed that I moved a number of times.The hardest part is set up, moving is easy as is turning.Might even have some pic's of me moving it, will have to have a look.Of course this all depends on what the the ground is like that you are moving across.

 

[RossDean]

We had to do a couple of 90s when moving my brother's screened in room.

First thing we did was raise each corner and block it with either 4x4s, bricks or concrete blocks.

This picture looks like my bros head is stuck...not that there haven't been times I'd have liked doing this to him, but we had the corners all blocked at this time, he was just, well, being himself.