How do I Get Crankshaft Nut off Kubota?

[5030]

On both my M9's, the nut and crank pulley are hanging right out there in the breeze. Only thing I have to remove is the expanded metal screen that covers the space between the rad and the pulley.

 

[Chewwy]

I just took a look at it.

I can't access the screws by removing the front axle, because the frame itself obstructs the screw heads above the axle. It looks like the only answer is to remove all the fasteners attaching the engine to the front frame, which go all the way back to the rear of the loader, and move the front frame forward.

To do this, I have to have the loader off. To get the loader off, I have to have hydraulics. To get hydraulics, I need to seal the hole in the cover.

I don't know what would happen if the engine were detached from the front frame, held in place by whatever fasteners are at the rear, and then jacked up. I assume it must be possible to jack up the oil pan and engine without breaking the engine loose from the transmission.

Have you talked to the shop folks at your dealer?
Mine are very helpful in that regard.

 

[Gord Baker]

Thanks for the info. I don't think a few grams of steel in the wrong place will bother an engine that tops out at a couple thousand RPM. Not planning to cut it at the moment, though.

I could actually make myself a longer nut on the lathe. That would be helpful. Too bad Kubota didn't do that.

I ordered myself a socket, and it will supposedly be here tomorrow. Now I just have to make a 3/4"-drive socket work with a 1/2"-drive wrench and a breaker bar, not to mention a 3/8"-drive torque wrench. I think there is room in there for the adaptors.

Simply purchase a 3/4" drive tool. Cutting off the spline will not affect balance. Be sure you know which direction to turn it!

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

With the radiator out and the sheet metal and fan out, I finally got a really good look and a photo.

The damage isn't limited to the hole, which is small. The front cover cracked, and the cracks are pretty long. I contacted the dealer for a service call.

Sometimes you just have to pay.

 

[Tony H]

Thanks for the info. I don't think a few grams of steel in the wrong place will bother an engine that tops out at a couple thousand RPM. Not planning to cut it at the moment, though.

I could actually make myself a longer nut on the lathe. That would be helpful. Too bad Kubota didn't do that.

I ordered myself a socket, and it will supposedly be here tomorrow. Now I just have to make a 3/4"-drive socket work with a 1/2"-drive wrench and a breaker bar, not to mention a 3/8"-drive torque wrench. I think there is room in there for the adaptors.

Put the socket and breaker bar on, support the handle on the breaker bar then 'tap' the ignition key. That'll loosen it.

 

[M59]

With the radiator out and the sheet metal and fan out, I finally got a really good look and a photo.

The damage isn't limited to the hole, which is small. The front cover cracked, and the cracks are pretty long. I contacted the dealer for a service call.

Sometimes you just have to pay.

Suburban Plowboy,

I've got to ask the obvious question. What happened to hole and crack the cover? Did something from outside hit the cover and push the metal in OR did something happen on the inside to make the hole.

I'm beginning to think the hole is the least of your problems.

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

I believe I told the story of the hole earlier, but in case I did not, it happened while the steering cylinder was being installed by yours truly. To get the cylinder into place and to bleed the hydraulics, I moved the steering wheel, and the rear end of the steering cylinder rod rammed the gear case cover.

Kubota put this cylinder inside the frame, so it's in front of the engine.

I should add that there is a new development.

The dealer called me back and surprised me by being very helpful. I have generally had really bad experiences with car and motorcycle dealers, so I figured tractor dealers were just as useless, and that's why I didn't call them until I got desperate.

The guy I talked to suggested ways to get the cover off. He is looking at a similar tractor, and he is going to call again. That amazes me, since they know they can make some money by coming to get it.

He confirmed that I can jack the tractor by the oil pan, and he said taking the engine out was not going to work. He said I might be able to remove the frame from the engine and slide the front mess forward to get access to the screws.

I took a look at it, and while the frame is screwed to the engine, and the so is the loader, it appears there are other screws that attach the transmission to the loader, and they can be left in place when the front frame is detached. That would hold the loader up while I slide the frame forward.

It appears to be a matter of 4 screws on one side and 5 on the other. I may be able to handle that.

He also said they are willing to attach the cover and leave the rest of the work to me, as long as I understand they can't warranty it. That would save me a lot.

I guess I should have called earlier, but ordinarily, I would rather have a snake thrown on me than let a dealer get into my life.

 

[M59]

I believe I told the story of the hole earlier, but in case I did not, it happened while the steering cylinder was being installed by yours truly. To get the cylinder into place and to bleed the hydraulics, I moved the steering wheel, and the rear end of the steering cylinder rod rammed the gear case cover.

Thanks for reply. I was unable to find any indication in thread as to why the hole occurred.
Since you know the steering cylinder ram pushed the hole into the cover, I would be concerned about metal debris being pushed inside the engine and potentially becoming cause of even greater damage. Timing chain and sprocket, valves if timing chain jumps teeth, and ultimately collision between valve and piston head. Diesel compression engines when piston at top dead center have very small cylinder volumes to gain the high compression and that could mean valve/ piston collision.

I have never had timing issues so if another contributor has some input about mis timed valves and piston, now would be helpful.

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

Good advice.

I have officially, finally, for the last time, given up. I now see how I can get access to the cover, but it's more work than I feel like doing. Next week, the Kubota will be transported to the dealer's lot.

 

[jcman]

I have to replace the front cover on my Kubota myself because the guy who said he would do it has disappeared. I got the radiator and other obstacles off. Now I have to remove the nut on the front end of the crank.

This appears to be a 45mm nut. My biggest impact socket is 23. My biggest crescent wrench is about 44.

How do I get this off? Are they insanely overtorqued like just about every other fastener on the Kubota?

I don't even know if I can immobilize the crank. This tractor has HST. Also, I'm not sure whether I could get the impact wrench in there if I managed to find a deep socket.

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