How do I Get Crankshaft Nut off Kubota?

[5030]

HF sells a complete impact rated adapter set, 3/4-1/2, 1/2-3/8, 1/2-1/4 and 1-3/4 online and in the store. I have them btw and like all the HF impact rated (black oxide) sockets deep well and shallow, they are indestructible, never split one yet and I try every time I use my Thor 1/2" impact wrench. It makes over 1400 foot bounds breakaway torque so no ordinary socket will survive it's punch. I believe the HF set is all of 15 bucks. Even used them with the 3/4-1 adapter on my IR truck wrench and it makes almost 2000 foot pounds of torque. Don't like using it because it's so heavy. Really only meant for dismounting Bud wheels.

I swear by HF impact sockets instead of swearing at the others when they split and that includes Snap-On and SK Wayne.

 

[stuckmotor]

Just the other day, I got some hits when I when I accidentally searched for "extra deep sockets".

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

I found two Youtubes of different guys removing the same nut on different Kubotas. One guy was in a place like India or Pakistan, and he used a chisel and hammer to knock the nut loose. The other guy is in New Hampshire. He hit one side of the nut with an air chisel. He confirmed it's 46mm.

He said he had to split his tractor to get clearance to get his front cover off, but mine looks like it will not have that problem.

 

[Skeletor]

You need a impact gun with the sac to blast it off. I have a 3/4” drive pneumatic one the has never been stopped. I bought a 1/2” ridgid 18volt one that is rated at 1500ft lbs. that also has never not worked.

 

[5030]

Once you take a chisel to it, it becomes buggered. I look at that as the 'Barney Fife' method and a last resort, IOW, I never do that, ever. Besides, how will you determine correct tightening torque with an air chisel...impossible. Just do it right.

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

Don't worry. I'm not doing it the Pakistani way.

 

[WranglerX]

Thanks for the info. I don't think a few grams of steel in the wrong place will bother an engine that tops out at a couple thousand RPM. Not planning to cut it at the moment, though.

I could actually make myself a longer nut on the lathe. That would be helpful. Too bad Kubota didn't do that.

I ordered myself a socket, and it will supposedly be here tomorrow. Now I just have to make a 3/4"-drive socket work with a 1/2"-drive wrench and a breaker bar, not to mention a 3/8"-drive torque wrench. I think there is room in there for the adaptors.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-30249A-Adapter-Vanadium-Conversions/dp/B01G3VKPAE/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=socket+adapter&qid=1658328314&sr=8-5

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

Yesterday, I placed an order with Grainger, and today I received an impact socket. It's a Proto 46mm deep socket, model J07529L. It fits the nut perfectly. It's labeled 1-13/16", which is within 0.04mm of the Japanese size. This may help other people, because that nut is used on other Kubota motors.

I paid over $60 because I wanted something that would arrive fast, but there are other ones out there for less.

It's a 3/4"-drive socket. I didn't have any adaptors to make my 1/2" impact wrench work with it, or at least I don't think I did, so I hit Harbor Freight and grabbed a set of adaptors and some universals. I already had a 1/2"-3/4" adaptor for a socket wrench, but I figured I might as well get impact-rated stuff, since I may need it for other things. And because I like buying tools.

I also picked up an Icon 24" 1/2"-drive breaker bar and a Bremen chain clamp

I believe I can get the socket and a universal on the nut, so the impact wrench should knock it right off. Failing that, the breaker bar should make short work of it, given the modest torque figure. I should be able to put the chain clamp on the pulley to lock it up well enough to get 101 ft.lbs.

Now I just hope the front cover will clear the frame and other BS.

 

[5030]

Puts me in mind of the gal next door, her husband passed recently and she's had to learn 'man's' work. She wanted to rotate her tires on her Chevy Impala but the wheel nuts have that stainless steel outer shell on them so a 23 mm socket won't fit and a 25 mm is too big so she brought it over and I took a 23mm HF black oxide socket (deep well) and my trusty 5 pound hammer and drove the socket on the nuts (destroying them of course), I despise those stainless skinned nuts anyway Drove it on whipped them off with the impact and then she said how was I gonna get the nut out of the socket. Simple, put the socket in the vise and drive it out with a punch.

Bought a set of plated steel nuts on Amazon for 30 bucks and the OEM junk went in the garbage.

I have to do the same deal with my Ford soon. Miserable stainless clad nuts. Totally worthless.

 

[Eagle1]

I replace the clad OEM nuts with solid as soon as possible. Even cheap ones that rust are better than crap that comes on cars.