How about a grease cartridge thread?

[5030]

One thing I might add and that is the CV joints especially on my powered implements require a certain number of strokes on a level gun to fill properly and why I use manual lever guns. You overgrease a CV joint, you blow the seals out of them and CV joint's are expensive to replace. Only time I grese until visible in any situation is when I'm told to.

 

[Shawn T. W.]

Technically I get my grease for free from the truck stops . . . I'm a long distance truck driver and I get anywhere from 1-7 points on there "rewards card" for each gallon of fuel/DEF that I pump ... 1 point = 1 cent ... So I use them to "buy" my supplies!

I do prefer the cardboard tubes and "tin" pop tops ... And I usually only have a choice of Lucas Red & Tacky, so that's what I get, rarely is there green given the shelf space, occasionally some truck stops carry the Mystic Red ... I like the LRT.

I stick my knife in the top to get the plastic pull tab started, so I can slowly and in a controlled manner remove it ... The new stuff is "runnier" a quick release of the plastic pull tab can send a bit flying out of the tube!

 

[spruce Deere]

I found TRC 880 crown and chassis grease and started using it. No bleeding or oozing oil from the grease from what I have seen. It is very good at staying where you put it. Only time it oozes for me is when I'm pumping it into u-joints and such and some old grease gets pushed out. And that stuff just clings on to what ever.

In the past I used pounds of power punch grease and chevron ultra-duty. Both excellent greases but would bleed oil from the grease and really attract all sorts of gritty stuff to the area of pins, pivots or what ever. The trc stuff just does not do that. My grease gun is oil free after switching over from the other greases in not quite a year. Something the other greases would have done by now.

Old school aluminum pull tabs and paper tubes to boot with the trc grease....