Hot water tank.....question

/ Hot water tank.....question #1  

General Lee

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Kubota L4400, B2401
I noticed this evening the hot water at the faucets is much hotter than normal. Last time I adjusted the T-stat was probably a year ago and I checked to make sure they were still set where I had them.....they were. I have the T-stat set at approximately 140 degrees.....main purpose is for the dishwasher. I just took a temp reading from the faucet....its 160 degrees. Whats going on here....T-stat not working right or the heating element(s)?
 
/ Hot water tank.....question #2  
Electric hot water heater, oil , or gas?

I'm suspecting electric. But I'd try turning the T-stat down and see if the temp of the water drops accordingly.
 
/ Hot water tank.....question
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Electric hot water heater, oil , or gas?

I'm suspecting electric. But I'd try turning the T-stat down and see if the temp of the water drops accordingly.

Sorry, electric. I turned the T-stat down, I guess we'll what happens.
 
/ Hot water tank.....question #4  
One possibility is buildup in the tank either as sediment or crust. Do you have soft or hard water?
 
/ Hot water tank.....question #5  
One possibility is buildup in the tank either as sediment or crust. Do you have soft or hard water?

I'm building a stove, 4th one, out of a hot water tank. This tank was gas, but the first 3 were electric. All the tanks had a lot of build up on the sensors and / or heating elements. This last tank was the worst. There was at least a bucket (2.5 gallons) of sand and minerals in it. One of the sensors was a just a huge blob. There was really nothing wrong with the tank other than the crude inside.

I recently changed a heating element on another tank, same thing, build up of minerals.

If about once a year folks would open the drain valve on the tank and let it flush out the crud the tanks would last a lot longer. But don't try that on an old tank, as it may never shut off or work right again.:(
 
/ Hot water tank.....question
  • Thread Starter
#6  
One possibility is buildup in the tank either as sediment or crust. Do you have soft or hard water?

I would say the water is more on the hard side but not to bad. I would think to much build up or sediment would cause it not to heat sufficiently (not enough). Just out of the blue, its heating to much.
 
/ Hot water tank.....question #7  
I would say the water is more on the hard side but not to bad. I would think to much build up or sediment would cause it not to heat sufficiently (not enough). Just out of the blue, its heating to much.

Build up on the heating element will slow down heating. Build up on the temp. sensor is like insulation so it takes it longer to feel the heat in the tank.
 
/ Hot water tank.....question
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Build up on the heating element will slow down heating. Build up on the temp. sensor is like insulation so it takes it longer to feel the heat in the tank.

So a possibility is build up on the T-stat and as the water continues to heat the T-stat is not registering it? and water temp continues to rise? So far it hasn't tripped the high limit switch.
 
/ Hot water tank.....question #9  
The T Stat is on the outside of the tank on most electric water heaters not in the water stream and are known to be not very accurate.. Make sure you turn down "both" T Stats the same amount..
 
/ Hot water tank.....question #10  
The top t- stat controls the time/temp the top element heats ,the bottom t-stat controls the bottom element heat but will not heat as long as the TOP.needs to run to SATISFY its temperature.,because you draw water off the top . You can amp probe the elements about 15-17 amps depending on element watts. You must satisfy the top t-stat temp ,to get the voltage to switch to the bottom t-stat to amp probe it.adjust setting to turn on/off element. I always use the clip over wire amp probe, both amp readings should be the same when heating. weird reading ,bad element.
bottom element usually is the bad one. in your case sounds like the top t stat bad.
make sure the top element has heated enough to switched voltage to the bottom element and the t-stat calls for heat on the bottom element to amp probe the bottom element. there should be power to the bottom element to amp probe it.
be safe just my way of doing it.
 
Last edited:
/ Hot water tank.....question
  • Thread Starter
#11  
The T Stat is on the outside of the tank on most electric water heaters not in the water stream and are known to be not very accurate.. Make sure you turn down "both" T Stats the same amount..

I turned down both T-stats last night (lowest setting) and today the water was not hot enough for me. Its weird, the manual for the tank says the top T-stat does NOT need to be adjusted but can be if desired. If it is adjusted, make sure it is NOT set HIGHER than the bottom T-stat. I have since turned them both up this afternoon and the water is hotter.
 
/ Hot water tank.....question #12  
The thermostats are simple click switches. They are known to start sticking when they get some age on them. I mean stick on. When you adjust them manually you break it loose. I usually change both when in doubt. They aren't that expensive compared to getting scalded.
 
/ Hot water tank.....question #13  
The top t- stat controls the time/temp the top element heats ,the bottom t-stat controls the bottom element heat but will not heat as long as the TOP.needs to run to SATISFY its temperature.,because you draw water off the top . You can amp probe the elements about 15-17 amps depending on element watts. You must satisfy the top t-stat temp ,to get the voltage to switch to the bottom t-stat to amp probe it.adjust setting to turn on/off element. I always use the clip over wire amp probe, both amp readings should be the same when heating. weird reading ,bad element.
bottom element usually is the bad one. in your case sounds like the top t stat bad.
make sure the top element has heated enough to switched voltage to the bottom element and the t-stat calls for heat on the bottom element to amp probe the bottom element. there should be power to the bottom element to amp probe it.
be safe just my way of doing it.
I agree and it always seems to be the bottom element cause you have to drain the tank to change it.
 
/ Hot water tank.....question
  • Thread Starter
#14  
So can the T-stats and heating elements be found at Lowes, etc or do I need to contact the tank's manufacturer for parts?
 
/ Hot water tank.....question #15  
Lowes or Home Depot. Just make sure you get the correct wattage. You may also want to pick up the handy dandy socket tool for removing and installing elements which is inexpensive and a good thing to have.
 
/ Hot water tank.....question #16  
I second the socket, but if you can turn down the thermo and the temp goes down, an element is not shorted to ground. That is one of the reasons for an overheat. There are labels on your elements that state the wattage. 4500 is common. A single element type might be 5500. Like stated, wattage should be matched or the sticking/ burning contacts will happen quicker. Also if you change the elements, get the " Long Life" or Sand Hog type. They are well worth the extra buck. Check your heater's elements before you shop. Some of the better models come with the good elements from the factory.
 
/ Hot water tank.....question
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Well, I changed out the T-stats today. I did pick some elements and I plan on installing them tomorrow if time allows. I checked the elements with a multimeter, and if I understood my meter and the instructions on how to check them correctly, they tested ok. Lowes sure didn't have much to choose from as far quality goes. I got the most expensive elements they carried. $22 bucks a piece. The new T-stats were slightly different than the originals. The new ones wouldn't allow me to re-install the factory plastic cover plate.
 
/ Hot water tank.....question
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I second the socket, but if you can turn down the thermo and the temp goes down, an element is not shorted to ground. That is one of the reasons for an overheat.

Can you explain this a little better? Do you mean the element is not properly grounded? If so, what would cause this all of a sudden?
 
/ Hot water tank.....question #19  
both old elements should read exactly the same ohms,you can have a open element and get a reading throught the water ,but it will more than likely be a higher ohm value than the good one.
i like to use a clamp over wire amprobe ,you have to make sure that voltage is at the element to amp it. this takes a little know how ,to get voltage to switch to the bottom .
as someone else said, bottom element can be laying in dirt.
I was young and with dad then and could not beleive a 3/4 bucket of dirt in there.
did many tanks in my younger days. dad had a plumbing shop.
 
/ Hot water tank.....question #20  
hope you got a top t stat and a bottom rt stat they are different
 

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