Horsepower and haybines/mower-conditioner

[msteele469@hotmail.com]

I have a new JD 3038E and am researching hay equipment. The tractor has 30 PTO hp, which I realize is minimal for hay equipment. I have located several mini-bailer and will likely go that route. Hay rakes are not a problem, the issue is finding a haybine or mower-conditioner my tractor can handle. I don't quite a bit of searching over the internet but am finding it hard to find specs on the many different (used) models out there.

Anyone have any history with smaller tractors and hay cutting equipment? (I know silly questions but I had to throw it out there... this is Tractorbynet)

Thanks,

 

[bschopf2280]

I can tell you that I have an 8 foot New Holland mower conditioner that my local dealer stated that I would need at least 35 hp to run. I ended up buying a 40 hp at the pto just to make sure I would be covered. Do you need to crimp your hay? If not I saw somewhere on the net a small discbine that hangs off the 3 point hitch. Looked like a real handy unit, but it does not condition. I am cutting a large percentage of alfalfa and am in a more humid climate, so I have to crimp.

 

[msteele469@hotmail.com]

I live in MI and my field is alfalfa, clover and fescue. I do need to crimp but have considered a discbine and then find a separate conditioner. Do you recall the mfg. or site link?

 

[farmerjim]

depending on your field conditions hilly or not. that jd could probably run a small haybine 7ft model w/ out too much issue. if the grass is very heavy you just slow it down a bit. there are a couple of tbner's here and i think they run a haybines on a similar size tractor or did even run a haybine on a smaller tractor. do a search and you will probably find some of their posts. any disc mower for that tractor would probably only be about a 5 ft cutter bar max, you could always look at the drum mowers. again disc mowers usually take lots of hp esp the trailed models plus they weigh a good amount.

 

[tessiers]

7' Haybine, really about the only mower and conditioner that I know of for small HP. We ran an international haybine with an H and it was slow but it worked. Fellow that owned it sold it out from under me, If you can find one they are not cheap but you better grab it quick, at least in this area.

 

[zzvyb6]

I have a NH479 mower conditioner and ran it for a couple of seasons with a 22hp Yanmar tractor. They don't require that much power. (The Yanni didn't even have live power, just a single stage clutch.). But the hitch weight is high, so you need some front weight(s) to keep the front wheels on the ground at all times for steering (although you can steer with the rear brakes). I run all my haystuff now with a 35 hp JD1070. Having a 2 way hydraulic circuit for tongue swing and a 1 way circuit for header lift is kinda nice....

BTW: I can run this rig in top gear range if necessary. The secret is to adjust the reel speed so its slightly ahead of ground speed. This combs the hay into the sickle area. If the reel is too slow, it impeads the flow into the sickle teeth. Adjusting the reel speed is real easy. There is an adjustable v-groove pulley on the right side at the conditioning rolls chain drive shaft.

 

[msteele469@hotmail.com]

Thanks, everyone. This was my first post and the information is really helpful. I continue to search the rest of TBN. Seems like with 38/30 HP I should be able to run some equipment.

 

[Tongy]

msteel...if you find a seperate conditioner post it on here. I would like to have something like that to go along with my old sickle bar mower. Sometimes that is the difference between getting you hay in the barn and getting it wet.

 

[dcyrilc]

Maybe a dumb question here, but what does the conditioner do? I'm working toward eventually haying a few acres and am trying to pick up what knowedge I can before I start buying equipment in a few years.

 

[zzvyb6]

The mower part cuts the stems or grass blades which are then fed thru to the conditioner section. (Often 2 counter rotating rolls). The conditioning parts break open the stems of the legumes (alfalfa usually) and breaks open the wax coating on the stems, This allows the hay to dry much faster by releasing more moisture per hour. Its really only is useful for the stemmy hay, though. Not much conditioning benefit to grass. The not so obvious advantage of the conditioner section is to feed the hay to the windrowing chutes which can then swath it into a narrower path (windrow). This allows the ground to dry very quickly on either side of the windrow. (There's no hay there). Then you can rake the windrow onto the dry ground much sooner and get a few days quicker drying time. I often just cut to as narrow as possible windrow and bale from there (no raking). You get dry hay as green as paint then because the sun bleach effect is minimized.

 

[dcyrilc]

The mower part cuts the stems or grass blades which are then fed thru to the conditioner section. (Often 2 counter rotating rolls). The conditioning parts break open the stems of the legumes (alfalfa usually) and breaks open the wax coating on the stems, This allows the hay to dry much faster by releasing more moisture per hour. Its really only is useful for the stemmy hay, though. Not much conditioning benefit to grass. The not so obvious advantage of the conditioner section is to feed the hay to the windrowing chutes which can then swath it into a narrower path (windrow). This allows the ground to dry very quickly on either side of the windrow. (There's no hay there). Then you can rake the windrow onto the dry ground much sooner and get a few days quicker drying time. I often just cut to as narrow as possible windrow and bale from there (no raking). You get dry hay as green as paint then because the sun bleach effect is minimized.

Thanks. I'll be doing grass hay so I guess my idea of a sickle mower, hay rake, and baler are all I really need?