I agree on relying on 'free' blades just to build a band mill. I still don't know the length of those anyway. I have looked at Cook's blades in 10 packs, and if I do design a mill, I would want it to be compatable with readily available blades...and of known quality, being that eventually I would need to buy them.
On the speed issue, sure I'd like better speed, and others have mentioned sharpening techniques that can help. I have yet to experiment with any of those things yet. When I first test ran this thing, I was using a 20" bar with a new full-chisel chain. I was impressed (for the thing cutting at all) but the 20" was too short when I got near the last few cuts, as it interferred with some of the log table hardware,etc. I switched to a 28" bar with a new full-chisel skip chain. It was visibly slower than the non-skip, but the added bar length eliminated the interferance problems. I made a few cuts that way, then made a ripping chain (1st chain I ever made). This was with Carlton 3/8" .050 ripping chain. It cut alot better that the skip cross-cut chain and yeilded a better finish, as ripping chain is supposed to do.
Being that I have more ripping chain in 3/8" .063 than .050, I now have a 32" bar in .063 on the saw. (I also have a 36" in .063). I have some chain in Carlton and some in GB (which may be Carlton?).
I have not run the 32" or larger bar yet.
For now, being that I only intended to cut for my own use, I will live with the speed, and maybe make some improvements, as I gain experience?
On a swing mill....those really grab my attention too. I have thought of doing something along those lines and have acquired a hydraulic concrete saw that is 21". I really don't cut any concrete or stone, and bought it for this idea.
I realize that even @ 21" it can only cut about ~9"...maybe 9-1/2".
My thought was to use it for edge cuts while ripping.....simultaneously?
But as a swing blade it may work OK for doing 2x6 or 2x8 or even 8x8?
It looks like a Skil saw, with the bottom plate...just like a framing saw.
I ran it using a guide board with a 14" ripping blade to test it by hand, cutting some bark edges off.
My hydraulic unit seems to run it just fine...even though my unit is 8gpm and that saw is 12gpm.
The chainsaw is easily removed, and I may be able to come up with a mount for the concrete saw (setup for wood)....possibly in a swing fashion?
I am going to stick with hydraulics on this machine, due to many factors. One, is the lack of 2-stroke noise and other nuisances...like heat/smoke..etc.
Also I don't have a huge gas saw.
Two, my log table goes up and down via an hydraulic motor, and I am thinking of adding a hydraulic log lift. (right now, I handle logs using a crane on the corner of one of my trucks).
IF I was to build a bandmill, I think I would shoot for at least a 25hp engine.
I have been looking at some in that range lately on CL.
I'd have to build a very heavy bandsaw mill if I was to really get into a band mill....and use an engine I already have. It is a 65.9hp Wisconsin.....weighing over 500#. It puts out around 40hp @ 1600 RPM.
That would be very quiet and the engine should be 'loafing'?
It would require some seroius track and track wheels...
It has a 10-groove 3V sheave on it's 2" crankshaft....ability to drive alot of things.
It was off of a 48" self-propelled concrete saw.
