Homemade Box Blade

[ovrszd]

Can you guys look at this blueprint and tell me where I'm offtrack before I start??? Please excuse the crude drawings. It's an Acrobat Reader document. Thanks in advance.

 

[SPIKER]

I didn't get a chance to view the PDF, (my system hates PDFs for some reason it locks up firefox every time

anyhow a box blade is one of those items that seems to be cheaper to BUY than to make. I know a lot of people make them simply to get welding/fab time in but a box blade has to absorb TONS of abuse. Usually factory welds are better than the ave home/farm owner. I build similar stuff at work all the time and I went & bought a BB simply due to for 250 bucks I got a good one. (this was 7 yrs ago) and my time effort/materials would have cost a lot more than that...

you still would have to buy rippers as well which are pretty high, in fact at the time almost 1/3 of the cost of my NEW BB would have been rippers to buy them, SO figuring I spent 2 hrs going & getting one, for 250, It I built one it would have taken 3 days say, 100 bucks in materials and rippers are ~30 each so that is 5 rippers = 150 more bucks that is right at the 250 mark to me it was a no brainer...

(that was not including cutting edges as my bought one uses simple flat stock not the actual cutting edge material...)

Mark M

 

[ovrszd]

Very good points. All of which I've thought about. I've got most of the materials on hand, but still have to consider the cost of those materials. I haven't priced scarifiers yet but hadn't figured on them being that expensive. As I look at these issues I may decide you are right.

I could buy a good used one, then modify it to have hydraulic lift scarifiers and maybe end up cheaper than building from scratch.

I don't figure my time investment at all. It's therapy to me. I'm positive I can build one stronger than a boughten $250 new one. Just not sure I can do it cheaper. Good points though Mark.

 

[3RRL]

Hi Richard,
Another neat project I see.
Although Mark is right about possible cost savings, there's no substitution for getting the self satisfaction of making your own box. Plus it's a little harder to re-design an existing boxblade to get the hydraulic lifting feature for the scarifiers you want...but it can be done.

A couple of things I would consider with your design, and this is only a suggestion, not a critique mind you.
Since you know that a boxblade's performance is all about weight, I would thicken up every single component. Not just for the added strength and resistance to abuse, but for the added weight. That will make your boxblade perform better in every way of use...from ripping to digging and smoothing etc. So I would consider going from 1/4" thick plates to at least 3/8" if not thicker. And so on for the other thickness plates and bars. Even your 3pt attachment. (Just my 2 cents)

Another thing to consider is what kind of scarifiers you will use. Some have the holes in them for positioning and others have slots cut out. I've found the ones sold at Agri-Supply are inexpensive and very durable. I got the ones with the holes in them because I bent and broke the ones with slots right at the slots. It is a natural weak point in the shank, whereas the holes are not as much.

If possible, could you show a section view from the side? Like if you were to remove the Left or Right side plate. I'd like to see how you are going to make the scarifiers work with the pivot and hydraulics.
Thanks,

 

[allen in texas]

Change the 1/4 flat bar stuff to 1/2. at least I would.
And the 18' measurement on your 3pt to the top link...
Put a 1 1/4'' round rod at 15 inches. then you can use the bottom pin holes on a quick hitch if you have one and still use th 3/4 hole above that to hook straight up to your tractor if you don't have one.
I also think that 3 inches is too wide at the top of the 3pt. 2" is plenty.

Just my opinion.

Actually, I didn't understand your drawing completely.
What is the distance , from bottom to top, from the center of your lift pins to the center of your top link pin?

the 18" looks to be an over all measurement.

 

[MJPetersen]

You have more drawing than I did when I made my rollover. I second the heavier materials Make sure you know what size your scarifiers are before you start since that will be purchased you kind of have to work around the size that they come in. For me that was not a problem--I cannot find them here.

One thing I noticed is that if at all possible it is best if you can put a bend or two in the blade itself to give the effect of a curved blade. It gives you a better angle for cutting. about 20 degrees is good.

If you are curious--here is my efforts at building a box. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/99596-rollover-scraper-minimum.html?highlight=roll+box

If you have access to a dealer with different boxes take a look and copy what you think is good.

Mike

 

[bx24]

Oversized

Check out this site for some scarfacers

ASC # 45646 Box Shank

 

[txslowpoke]

Here is what we did at work to make suitable blade to level caliche in the back of our yard. Took a piece of 16" 1/2" wall pipe and split it in half, ground bottom edge with a grinder at an angle. On the top edge we took a piece of 1/4"x 6" flat and cut triangle notches in it. Welded and braced it to top of pipe half. On back side of pipe half we welded rectangle tube for forklift forks to fit.
When the caliche gets packed hard and is in rough shape we loosen it with the V and then flip it over to smooth it out. I would think the same concept could be applied to a tractor pulled implement. Might have add a weight tray and depth control skids/wheels tho.

 

[wushaw]

I would go the used route but I would only look at either Gannon or a Cammond, the weight will already be there.
I am sure there are several of these mechanical ones around that can be converted to hydraulic.

 

[weldingisfun]

Oversized

Check out this site for some scarfacers

ASC # 45646 Box Shank

Or, to save S&H you can drop by your local TSC.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay_10551_10001_48603_______14345|14346|14347|14348|48603?listingPage=true

 

[sandman2234]

Since I tore the 1/2" by 3" flatbar on my boxblade where the 3pt hooks up, I would agree with everyone that you should increase the thickness of that part at the very least. That part takes all the abuse when the boxblade hits something and the tractor doesn't stop. If you don't have a piece of 1/2" x 3 flatbar, then at least weld two 1/4" flatbars together to add some strength to that point. Can you extend the short side of the 3pt hitch further back over the top of the 2" square without it being in the way? That would help with the twisting effect that allows them to break.
I would condsider using flatbar in exchance for the center 2x2x1/4" angle unless you have a reason for it. It appears to be a brace to keep the rear from pulling or bowing but when you pile dirt up, it will be one more place to have to clean it off of when your done. Flatbar won't allow quite so much dirt to pile up on top of it, and should have about the same tensile strength.
David from jax

 

[3RRL]

I have not seen a side view yet, so one other suggestion about your 3pt hitch mount is to be sure to run 2 stabilizer thick bars (flat stock one on each side) from near the top link attachment angling down to the back of the boxblade. It should attach to rear about the same width as the lift pins are apart. That will take care of what David was trying to do (If I understood his post correctly). This is very important to keep the 3pt mount from collapsing, especially while pushing in reverse.

 

[john_bud]

Yes, go to 1/2 plate for the ends. Or double up the 1/4. Also the scarifier bar on HD units is NOT tube. It's 3/8" angle that is sloted for the scarifiers then welded. The thrust surface is re-enforced with a 3/8 rod. The 3pt mounts are 3/4" with some having straps going to the back wall.

Also, the side plates are angled on the bottom some, giving a natural rake to the blade for smoother cutting action.

A REAL SLICK thing is to make the scar bar pivot up out of the way. I'll snap some of mine that does this. It's real handy being able to pull a lever and have scarifiers or pull a lever suddenly not have them. Hydraulic actuation is even better $$$$, but too much $$$$ for me. I do flip the scar bar up and down a lot. Typically, cut the ground up with the scarifiers, then flip them up and drag /smooth /move dirt. When the hard pan is hit, back down go the scars. Slick.

jb

Here's the link to a bunch of pics with tape measure of a gannon box with manually lowerable Scarifier bar.

john_bud/gannon box - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

[ovrszd]

Sorry I didn't get back to you guys sooner, been extremely busy. All great suggestions. Especially upsizing the material. I was considering 1/4" because I already have it all. But that's no reason to build something that won't last. I also agree with bracing the top part of the 3pt, definitely need to add that.

Now I gotta give this some more thought. If I have to purchase 1/2" material I can certainly buy cheaper than build. But as 3RRL stated, there's a lot of satisfaction in building myself. Even if I buy, I still want to fabricate a hydraulic lift mechanism something similar to what I had drawn. A short cylinder standing on the main cross beam, under the 2" cross beam that would have tabs attaching it to the hole type scarifiers?

Hmmm, now I gotta shop for a used heavy duty box blade. Thanks everyone!!!